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Old 11-07-2014, 10:15 AM   #1
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Brake light feed from MH

I have a 07 Bounder(gas). Had a 97 Jeep Wrangler everything worked. Now have 14 Ram 1500. Had Blue Ox base installed along w/ wiring. I can't get the brake lights to work. I have no power at the connector for RV. I have checked all fuses both in coach and in engine compartment. Any one have any ideas?
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Old 11-07-2014, 11:09 AM   #2
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Try tracing the wires back from the bumper connector on the RV. There should be a fuse box that protects the connector from the RV brake and running lights.
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Old 11-07-2014, 12:48 PM   #3
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orrconst,
Well Sir, first off, we need just a tad bit of history prior to maybe a course of action. That is, you stated that, you HAD a Jeep Wrangler as a toad, prior to the one you have now and, everything worked, in terms of wiring, correct?

Now, you've changed toads and, apparently tow bars too, correct? Now, one question is, how long ago was it all setup to tow your Ram? Second, when it was all setup, did the folks who did the work, check all the light operations, as in running, turn signals, brakes, etc.???

If so, did your brake lights work then? If they didn't check them (which I really suspect they did) then, did you check them right after it was all setup to tow the Ram? What was the results?

Now, if they were working on the Jeep, and not on the Ram, it really doesn't mean much, especially if you're not getting any power or, signals from the brake light pins on the trailer connector. By the way, I'm assuming that, your brake light pins on the trailer connector are also the turn signal pins too, correct?

If so, are you getting a left and or right, turn signal-signal from the trailer plug? If so, then the circuit is working. It's maybe something like either a fuse or, possibly the brake light switch or connections on the brake light switch on the coach. That would be one place I'd check. See if you're getting power to the brake light switch and, then out of it when the switch is activated.
Scott
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Old 11-07-2014, 03:34 PM   #4
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Yes all lights ie:tail,LT/RT and brake worked w/ the jeep. Camping world did the install, yet the rv was not there when they installed the bracket and wiring kit. I'm still using the original tow bar as it is rated 10k. The work was done in Jun '14. The wife said all lights were working in Jul. This trip is the first trip since then that we have taken the toad w/ us. I have tail, LT/RT at the back connector on the rv. I have also checked all the fuses I could find. They said all was working at CW and they were working before we went to Williamsburg. As far as the turn signals being the same as the brake pins I'm not sure as it is not make like it is on my truck 7pin. I hope I have given enough info for any help you can give. Thanks Bill
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Old 11-07-2014, 06:15 PM   #5
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O.K., now you say you have power at the plug on the RV rear. When you plug in the umbilical, do you have power at the end of the umbilical? Using a jumper from the toad battery(+), if you touch the wire to the proper pin on the toad bumper, (or if you prefer, unhook umbilical from the RV and touch the jumper into the proper socket on the umbilical) You should be able to light left and right turn, and tail lights. Does your toad have a separate bulb for turn and brake or do you use the bright element of one bulb for turn and brake, the dimmer element in the bulb for tail lights? Does your RV also have a two element bulb for tail, turn, and brake or a separate bulb (amber?) for turn signal and brake? If your toad isn't the same as the RV you'll need something like this:

Hopkins Towing 48845 48-in Taillight Converter: Exterior Car Accessories : Walmart.com
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Old 11-07-2014, 06:43 PM   #6
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I have power for the tail and turn but not the brakes. Yes I have a single bulb in the toad and 2 bulbs on the rv. It is the same setup I hade with the jeep.
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Old 11-07-2014, 07:13 PM   #7
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Since you didn't answer my questions about the light set up on the two vehicles, I looked myself. It looks like the Bounder has separate lights for turn signals and brakes. (called a 3 wire system) I believe the Dodge Ram only shows red tail lights, thus a 2 wire system. (3 wire systems usually have amber turn signals on the back) You should have a converter changing 3 wire to 2 wire for the Ram. You also needed a converter to tow the '97 Wrangler, so it should be in the back of the Bounder. They do go bad sometimes, you'll need to check it out.

WHERE do you show no power for the brake lights?? At the RV bumper plug, or in the toad? If you use a jumper from the toad battery to the various pins in the toad front bumper plug you can test if the lights are wired properly.
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Old 11-07-2014, 07:24 PM   #8
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I edited my post but I guess it didn't go thru. But you are 100% correct w/ the lights. I show no power at the rv for brakes, but power for all others. I cant find the converter on the rv.
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Old 11-07-2014, 09:24 PM   #9
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Bill,
Just about 99.99999% of all motor homes with "Amber" turn signals, are wired at the trailer plug, with a converter in the system so that, the separate brake and turn signals "convert" to just one pin, for each side, at the plug. That is, some place, in that wiring of your coach, tucked up inside a cavern some place, is that converter. And, like Bluefin has stated, those converters can go bad sometimes.

You may, in fact be getting a brake signal but, it's being stopped by a bad converter. The only way for you to tell is, one, find that brake switch on the motor home as I described earlier and or two, go find that converter. On the incoming side, you'll have at least five wires.

1. Rt turn
2. Lt rurn
3. Brake lights
4. Tail/marker lights
5. Ground

On the output side, you should have only FOUR wires.

1. RT/Brake
2. LF/Brake
3. Tail/marker
4. Ground

And those are the wires that will be heading into the back side of your trailer plug on the back of your coach. Now, you may, depending on how and who wired it either at the factory or, anytime before you got your hands on that coach, have additional wires which, could be any function of these:

1. Backup lights
2. Electric Brake light trigger wire (typically only wired if, a Brake controller is present under the dash but, not always.)
3. 12V hot, for charging Toad/trailer batteries while motoring down the road.

So, my point, you say you ARE getting right and left turn signals from the RV trailer plug. I'd bet dollars to donuts that, the same pins, in that plug, are also your brake light pins too. So, if you're back there with your trusty little test light and, you yell at the DW to put on the "Right" turn signal, and you find which pin is that signal, then you yell at her to put on the left turn signal, and you locate that pin, now, have her step on the brakes. IN a normal world, both of those pins, will go constant with your test light.

But, in your present world, NEITHER one is going constant, correct? If this is all true, then the wiring, I'd say, up to the trailer plug, is all good and, functioning well. But, as has been stated, it's possible that your converter, is not allowing the brake light signal, to be integrated with the turn signal wires, INSIDE that converter. That is, IF, you're getting a signal from your brake switch and, it's not fused some other place before it gets to the converter or, is broken someplace down the line.

Now, one of the first things I might do here is, determine the FACT, that you are getting a brake light signal from your brake switch on the brake pedal. That will tell you for sure, that your brake light system, is working. Then, it's search time. You'll have to track down, that converter or, at the very least, try and track the brake light signal wire as it leaves the brake light switch and follow it to where it leads. That will be a daunting task.

Now, on our Itascas and Most Winnebagos, there is a separate fuse box, just for the trailer plug. Many folks have traced problems with the trailer plug, right to that fuse box but, I'm not aware of Fleetwood installing such a fuse box for the trailer plug. That doesn't mean they don't or, haven't in the past, it just means I'm not aware of it, if they did. So, keep us informed of your progress.
Scott
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Old 11-08-2014, 08:39 AM   #10
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Had a similar problem with my '07 Bounder took it in to the shop and it was a bad converter, replaced it all is good.
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Old 11-08-2014, 06:37 PM   #11
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Thanks check it out when we get home. I'll have DW drive the toad home as not to take anymore chances. Thanks Bill
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Old 12-30-2014, 02:51 PM   #12
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I would like to thank everyone for their info. Finally got around to it. I install the Hopkins 46365 short proof power converter and the 47185 multi tow 4 pin flat and 7 pin round. I took off the factory 7 pin and all is good. Next trip can keep the DW in the coach to have someone to talk with. Again THANKS VERY MUCH AND HAVE A HAPPY NEW YEAR AND SAFE TRAVELS Bill
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