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lazysb · 08-19-2014, 11:43 PM

We recently purchased a 2003 Bounder 35 e with Workhorse Chassis and 8.1 Chev. It has 2 - new 12v coach batteries and 1 - 12v Main, (Interstate). It had barely over 16,000 miles on it. We have a "low battery warning light and "check engine light" on the dash.

On several occasions we have shut down the engine and when restarting It acted like a low battery (engine barely turned) and when it finally started we got the reduced engine power warning and results.

I finally shut it down and started with the battery booster switch engaged and it took off as normal and the battery Voltage reading about 14.3 volts. One of the times we had been driving for about six hours in 100 degree plus temp, the engine coolant temp normal, and when we shut it down it was the same thing, having to boost it to get going again. Of course as hot as it was the dash air was fan only and the radiator cooling fans ran on each little upgrade and headlights of course. It had done the same thing at the beginning of our trip however with just a 12 mile run from home to the gas station and then several times along the way.

After getting home I called Fleetwood support and talked to a real knowledgeable and pleasant guy who after running me through several test routines diagnosed the problem as being the battery control center (terminology - under the fridge 110 volt in 12 volt out). I got to thinking why did it do this when it was under the influence of the alternator just prior to it acting up. Did a little more reading and formed the opinion that the solenoid under the hood in the Battery Control Center could be defective and furthermore it didn't seem to click on a regular schedule when I energized it with with the battery booster switch. So, I installed a new Solenoid and thought things were better.

Drove it up the coast to a little camp spot about 30 miles and stayed over a couple of nights on shore power. Drove it home - shut it down for a half hour or so - tried to start it and the same thing. Had to boost it to get it going. Let it rest for a couple of days and it started right up with the Alternator doing about 14.3 on the dash meter. I'm missing something here so I was hoping someone out there has a suggestion that might give me a new start.

I operated a garage down in Tonopah NV years ago but my brain has been on vacation for awhile after a little stroke. I think I can fix it, (The Charging Problem), but I could sure use a little diagnostic help and I hate to have somebody experiment around with it on my limited income. Any ideas welcomed - Thanks - Steve

Skip426 · 08-20-2014, 12:49 AM

Steve, as with all electrical problems , finding the exact cause is 99% of the battle.
I'd start with the alternator connections and until you can catch it in the act with a voltmeter in hand , of not delivering power, your going to be doing a lot of head scratching. Can't rule out, bad connections at the battery, internal open( inter cell connector) in the start battery, or ground wire to the engine or frame, even brushes in the alternator.
I know , not helping , but I'm trying honest.

pcurt23 · 08-20-2014, 07:59 AM

When that happened to me it turned out to be the alternator. Try starting the generator when that happens and see if the low battery warning goes away. That worked for me to get the coach home and to my favorite repair place.