Chassis battery not charging on shore power

[MrMudstud]

I bought a circuit board 3 years ago that cost $153 from RVGOD on ebay. I installed it and my problem went away. I had the same problem as you, chassis battery not charging. Since then all is good with charging batteries. Look him up he is still on ebay.

[Old Bounder]

Originally Posted by JWLSC

Well I followed the trouble shooting guide. Trouble shooting Aux Start and charging relay. I was on the following part, Aux Battery not charging from Engine alternator. I get 14.23v from the chassis battery with the engine running and no shore power, but when I check the voltage on the coil of the start/relay which is P1#5 I only get.5v which I’m sure is not enough. It says if no voltage on P1#5 replace circuit board. I can charge the house batteries when on shore power but not the chassis battery. I can charge the chassis battery with the RV engine running but not the house batteries. So what are my options now. 1-Get a new circuit board. 2- get a Trik L Start. 3- 110v battery minder.

Option #1 will return the two way charging back to normal, but options #2 and #3 will only work in one direction.

When my board failed like that (like yours, all other functions remained) I replaced the failing two way charge function by installing a new BIRD unit from Intellitec. I left the BCC board in place to do everything else. The cost was less than half what a new BCC circuit board would cost. It has been working great for many months.

[JWLSC]

old bounder, Would this get me back to the house and chassis batteries both charging like it was originally doing.
Can you give more details about how you installed the Intellitec BIRD. Do you have a Wiring diagram, Part numbers, helpful hints, etc for the install.

[Howard Rawley]

John,

You may have already covered these bases, but just in case before you order a new board ...

Even if the circuit board is bad you should be able to connect the batteries through the Aux Start Solenoid by holding the Aux Start Switch on.

In other words if you have shore power disconnected and engine running when you depress the aux start switch you should see the alternator output ~ 14v on the coach batteries also and vice versa. Engine off, ground power connected ... converter should send at least 13.6 or so to coach batteries and if you then hold the Aux Start Switch on you should see that voltage on the Chassis battery also.

When you use the Aux Start Switch power comes through fuse F17 in the BCC, to power the Aux Start Solenoid (you would see that 12v at P1-5 also with the switch held on).

In normal operation a circuit on the circuit board supplies the power to the Aux Start Solenoid.

If the Aux Start Switch works then you are probably looking at a board change. I had to use a tooth pick to hold the Aux Start Switch on for a while until we could get back home to complete the board change.

Ref the chassis battery going low. One thing you might want to do is have the "new" chassis battery load checked for a possible bad cell ... rare out of the box as it were, but does occasionally happen ... took me almost a year to figure out why the "new" battery in our popup at the time wouldn't stay charged ... remote but a possibility we usually overlook ... after all ... "it's new !"

Howard
01 Southwnd F53 V10
Colorado

[Old Bounder]

Originally Posted by JWLSC

old bounder, Would this get me back to the house and chassis batteries both charging like it was originally doing.
Can you give more details about how you installed the Intellitec BIRD. Do you have a Wiring diagram, Part numbers, helpful hints, etc for the install.

I will work up a diagram of how I used the $53 Intellitec BIRD to control the charge/isolator solenoid instead of replacing the $160+ board.

You really should verify that the aux start switch (held closed as Howard Rawley suggests) will allow the solenoid to bridge the battery banks together before spending any money.

The fuses and components he referenced are all shown on the diagrams that I gave you.

[golfpgb]

I would be interested in seeing that also Ole Bounder.

[JWLSC]

Thanks old bounder for all the help

[Lobstah]

I've had this issue twice over the years. The first time was a blown fuse in the BCC...I forget the number, but "R8" seems to come to mind...don't hold me to that.

The second time was about a year or two later...I thought the same fuse had blown.
I pulled the fuse and it was good...huh...when I reinserted the fuse, as soon as it made contact I heard a "click"...and everything worked as normal. Almost like the BCC got confused, or the fuse somehow had a bad connection, though it felt tight when I removed it.

Jim

[JWLSC]

Originally Posted by Old Bounder

Option #1 will return the two way charging back to normal, but options #2 and #3 will only work in one direction.

When my board failed like that (like yours, all other functions remained) I replaced the failing two way charge function by installing a new BIRD unit from Intellitec. I left the BCC board in place to do everything else. The cost was less than half what a new BCC circuit board would cost. It has been working great for many months.

Any chance you got around to that wiring diagram for the bird.