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05-02-2016, 06:19 AM
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#29
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojoracing
When you say the electric goes out, do you mean the 12 volt meaning lights, fans ect. or do you mean the 110, microwave, air conditioners and outlets, or both?
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I mean everything shuts off. I am talking to them today at the dealers about the problem.
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05-02-2016, 06:45 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,349
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This should be a warning to anybody buying a motorhome, new or used.
DRIVE IT ON THE HIGHWAY !!
They all handle fine in town, but we buy then to travel.
I test drove an older class A Bounder up on the highway and couldn't get back soon enough.
Next was an old Class C. We bought it.
It wasn't perfect, but I could relax while driving it.
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05-02-2016, 07:06 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marvsi12
The wife and I bought a new 2015 Bounder 34T gas at close out 3 months ago. It has been a nightmare. Its all over the road when you get to 55 or 60. Trucks passing almost pushes us off the road. The noise from the motor straining is horrible. We have had it out for 2 trips and have had a lot of water leaks they never fix right and the electric has a strange short somewhere that causes it to shut off occasionally. We wish we would of never bought it. Is there a lemon law for campers? This is not how we wanted to spend our retirement.
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Except for the electrical problem, the things you are complaining about are somewhat normal. You have a short rv on a Ford chassis. Ford chassis are noted for their excessive noise under load. Are you by any chance driving with tow haul mode on? The shorter motorhomes are more susceptible to being pushed around by the big trucks. Eventually, you will get used to the way the rig drives. There are several aftermarket devices that will quiet the wandering.
As for leaks, The dealer should have a machine that shows where the leaks are coming from and should be able to fix it or them.
The correct air pressure in the tires will help with the ride but on rough roads nothing helps. Even the larger rigs are rough on the really rough roads.
Just calm down and go on some shorter trips until you get used to the ride. Your rig is short enough that the back roads may be more to your liking. Fleetwood is a quality builder and much better than most of the entry level coaches. However the Ford Chassis is just a rough way to go.
__________________
Pcurt
2007 Fleetwood Bounder 38V
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05-02-2016, 08:41 AM
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#32
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 57
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We too are new class A owner's of a coach about the same size as yours and on the same chassis. I can attest that it can be kind of wild on the highway sometimes. The biggest issue seems to be when the wind is up, it is like night and day on a dead calm day vs 10-15mph winds. I've been getting used to it (as opposed to trading and spending a bunch more $$ for a diesel pusher which supposedly would handle better). We just recently got back from a 2500 mile trip through 2 states during high wind advisories and those were some exhausting days of driving let me tell you. I found that once I hooked up our tow vehicle that actually helped with the push-pull from passing semi's since the weight of the extra car seemed to anchor the tail a bit (which overhangs the rear axle quite a bit causing all that extra wagging). In the end I decided that I can't drive the 8 hour days like I used to in my class C, just too exhausting. But I am still happier because I love the floorplan and once your stopped at a camp the handling doesn't matter anymore. The other folks here have addressed the other issues you've had already and you should be able to get those fixed up at the dealer at Fleetwood's expense
__________________
Matt & Leah
2016 Southwind 34A
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05-02-2016, 09:08 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: FL
Posts: 1,355
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If you're for real (only 4 posts before this one) and not trolling, no, there are generally no lemon laws covering the RV house portion. The electric sounds as if your transfer switch (between the genset and 120v shore power) is faulty so have the dealer replace since it's an intermittent issue. The chassis portion of the RV is generally covered by lemon laws, but it doesn't sound as if you've given the dealership a chance to figure out what the steering issues are. It could be something as simple as out of alignment. You need to have that checked before you start throwing money into aftermarket handling fixes. Just stay on the dealership and Fleetwood, calm and nice at this point, but insist they get it right.
__________________
--2005 F350 Superduty Crewcab, 6.0, 4wd, short bed, 3.73 gears
--2016 Montana 3711FL, 40'
--SOLD 2014 Wildcat 327CK, 38'
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05-02-2016, 09:40 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Pensacola FL
Posts: 1,451
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" Death Trap"
May I ask you to elaborate on the use of that description?
You say you purchased a coach 3 month ago and your first presence here is in a post titled "Death Trap" three months later. You say your retired now which would indicate you've been around awhile and should have a reasonable level of purchasing experience.
It appears that you have made a very substantial purchase with little to no prior research (due diligence) on your part. Did you expect a 30+ foot box to drive the same as a car? Do you have any relevant experience or examples to justify calling your coach a death trap? Could you just post something, anything that indicates you've done any research on the product you've bought.
[Moderator Edit]
__________________
Brenda & AL
2017 Thor Venetian, T42 "Groot"
2020 Chevy Sonic, 2019 KTM 790 Duke
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05-02-2016, 10:27 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marvsi12
The electric just goes out for no reason. The Bounder will just shut down. If I start the generator for 10 or 15 minutes it will reconnect and be normal. Sometimes the electric is normal a couple days other times it might black out 2 or 3 times a day.
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Your electrical symptoms need to be explained a little more clearly. There are three distinct (though interconnected) electrical systems in your Bounder. - The engine (chassis) 12V system
- The house (coach) 12V system
- The house 120 volt A/C system
Just saying the "electric shuts down, goes out or blacks out" is like telling your doctor that "it hurts", without telling him/her what an "it" is.
You have several knowledgeable folks here with experience on RV electrical systems, who are willing to assist in diagnosing your problem if given enough information.
Does the engine just quit?
Do the Dash lights go out?
Do the house lights go out?
Does the TV just go off?
Does anything still work?
What really happens?
__________________
'97 Bounder 34V, F53 7.5L-460
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05-02-2016, 10:39 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marvsi12
When I test drove the thing I did not get it on a expressway.
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Yikes!!
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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05-02-2016, 11:32 AM
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#37
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Bounder
Your electrical symptoms need to be explained a little more clearly. There are three distinct (though interconnected) electrical systems in your Bounder. - The engine (chassis) 12V system
- The house (coach) 12V system
- The house 120 volt A/C system
Just saying the "electric shuts down, goes out or blacks out" is like telling your doctor that "it hurts", without telling him/her what an "it" is.
You have several knowledgeable folks here with experience on RV electrical systems, who are willing to assist in diagnosing your problem if given enough information.
Does the engine just quit?
Do the Dash lights go out?
Do the house lights go out?
Does the TV just go off?
Does anything still work?
What really happens?
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The electrical problem was the campers fuse box. They replaced it today. I was told some of the fuses were loosing contact and when I ran the Gen set the vibration made contact and it worked for awhile again. lucky it did not cause a fire.
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05-02-2016, 11:37 AM
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#38
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noflyboy
We too are new class A owner's of a coach about the same size as yours and on the same chassis. I can attest that it can be kind of wild on the highway sometimes. The biggest issue seems to be when the wind is up, it is like night and day on a dead calm day vs 10-15mph winds. I've been getting used to it (as opposed to trading and spending a bunch more $$ for a diesel pusher which supposedly would handle better). We just recently got back from a 2500 mile trip through 2 states during high wind advisories and those were some exhausting days of driving let me tell you. I found that once I hooked up our tow vehicle that actually helped with the push-pull from passing semi's since the weight of the extra car seemed to anchor the tail a bit (which overhangs the rear axle quite a bit causing all that extra wagging). In the end I decided that I can't drive the 8 hour days like I used to in my class C, just too exhausting. But I am still happier because I love the floorplan and once your stopped at a camp the handling doesn't matter anymore. The other folks here have addressed the other issues you've had already and you should be able to get those fixed up at the dealer at Fleetwood's expense
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I got it back today the electrical is supposed to be fixed. As for the handling I was told to take it to a Ford truck center to have checked. The dealer says I can have some items installed that will make it drive better. I just don't think I should have to spend another 1500 to correct it.
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05-02-2016, 12:08 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Grapevine, Tx
Posts: 5,625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marvsi12
I got it back today the electrical is supposed to be fixed. As for the handling I was told to take it to a Ford truck center to have checked. The dealer says I can have some items installed that will make it drive better. I just don't think I should have to spend another 1500 to correct it.
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Well, get used to it. If it is an alignment problem, you might be able to get the dealer to pay for it. But the dealer is not going to spring for sway bars, track bars, or steering stabilizers. All of which can improve your handling.
But first you have to have a good alignment and proper tire pressures.
__________________
2004 Fleetwood Southwind 32VS W20 - SOLD!
ReadyBrute Elite towing a 2017 Ford Edge Sport
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05-03-2016, 06:24 AM
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#40
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 18
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I like your article on handling problems. Very well written. I guess I am going to just have to spend more money to fix the problem. Just does not seem right to have to pay to fix a new motorhome.
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05-03-2016, 07:09 AM
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#41
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Pensacola FL
Posts: 1,451
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marv
Have you checked the tire pressure?
The Cheap Handling Fix cost me about an hour of my time and improved the handling of my 35K. I just got back from a 5000 mile trip and have spent exactly 0 on the handling.
It wasn't that long ago that I had a serious case of white knuckles from hanging on to my first coach on the first drive home. Biggest single improvement since then was me just getting used to the thing.
__________________
Brenda & AL
2017 Thor Venetian, T42 "Groot"
2020 Chevy Sonic, 2019 KTM 790 Duke
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05-03-2016, 07:22 AM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: FT on the Road
Posts: 3,832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marvsi12
I like your article on handling problems. Very well written. I guess I am going to just have to spend more money to fix the problem. Just does not seem right to have to pay to fix a new motorhome.
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Well, as they say Caveat Emptor.
Chalk it up as RV life experience. No one ever said owning an RV is going to be cheap (well, no one that actually has owned one).
The good thing is the electrical should be fixed. The handing can be fixed. If you do the work yourself it will not cost 1500.
First thing get it weighed and air the tires to the proper inflation
Second, read the CHF thread and see if you want to do that.
Take it for a shakedown trip. Put some miles on the highway with big trucks and find some windy days. If still not happy with the handling there are 2 things that are your best things to do - steering stabilizer or rear track bar. I am doing the steering stabilizer (Roadmaster reflex RSSA).
Those items should really get you a decent handling rig. Maybe not a DP with air suspension but you didn't pay the premium for that so don't expect a DP ride.
After you fix those items, enjoy your coach. Oh, expect other things to go wrong as well. Every time you drive that rig somewhere it is like putting your house through an earthquake. Things will need to be tightened, adjusted, maintained, looked after, cleaned...
Let us know how it turns out
__________________
I don't subscribe to threads I reply to so will not see your reply to my comment. Drop me a direct message if you want a reply from me.
Cheers!
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