Community Forums

huntnski · 07-14-2014, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SarahW

I'm not sure it's a good idea to put a lot of oil into the bowl just to end up in the black tank...?? User info for the SeaLand toilet says to use a LIGHT coating of vegetable oil or furniture polish on the seal.

Tim, have you ever changed the seal in your toilet? How old is it? If it's clean and pliable but still leaking, it sounds like you need to replace it to me.

From the SeaLand troubleshooting guide... (click to see larger)

To answer the question, no in the little over a year that I've owned it the problem of leaking has only occurred now and then and I've really not sure what cleared it up then. Now after having the ball valve replaced bt CW it won't hold water and thus far CW hasn't returned my call. When I picked up the coach they had applied enough wax looking material in bowl that it didn't leak. After using for a few days the leaking started. I've tightened the band on outside of bowl some but no help. May try that some more.

How do you inspect seal without dismantling bowl?

SarahW · 07-14-2014, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by huntnski

To answer the question, no in the little over a year that I've owned it the problem of leaking has only occurred now and then and I've really not sure what cleared it up then. Now after having the ball valve replaced bt CW it won't hold water and thus far CW hasn't returned my call. When I picked up the coach they had applied enough wax looking material in bowl that it didn't leak. After using for a few days the leaking started. I've tightened the band on outside of bowl some but no help. May try that some more.

How do you inspect seal without dismantling bowl?

Hmmmm. Sounds like you need to take it back to CW and let them fix it right.

What is the brand/model of your toilet? You should be able to Google for the user manual if you don't have one. There are troubleshooting guides on the Dometic Sealand website, if that's the type you have.

Muddypaws · 07-14-2014, 07:16 PM

One of the things that's counter intuitive with regard to RV toilets and it's something great comes up several times a year.

Don't be gentle with the valve. Let it slam shut.

Some toilet seals can be replaced without even removing the toilet. I worked on a Sealand 310 a couple of weeks ago and the seal could be removed just by prying it out with your (gloved) fingers.

Our last three RV's have had toilets that could be split simply by removing the band clamp that holds the bowl to the pedestal. A simple job, but still not pleasant.

The water in the bowl is an important thing keeping 'tank smell' from getting to your nose. In my opinion it's worth whatever they charge for new seals.

huntnski · 07-14-2014, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SarahW

Hmmmm. Sounds like you need to take it back to CW and let them fix it right.

What is the brand/model of your toilet? You should be able to Google for the user manual if you don't have one. There are troubleshooting guides on the Dometic Sealand website, if that's the type you have.

Back to CW is my plan if I can get them to return my calls. I'm actually asking all these questions so I'll be better educated on the matter. Hopefully I'll recognize facts from BS.

I'm trying to keep an open mind about CW but it's looking like all the complaining is for good reason.

chboone · 07-14-2014, 07:29 PM

If my Sealand won't hold water I first try cleaning the seal with the toilet brush by twisting back and forth with the valve open. If that doesn't work I use an ice cream to gently clean the underside of the seal. That always works.

Chuck

SarahW · 07-14-2014, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chboone

If that doesn't work I use an ice cream to gently clean the underside of the seal. That always works.

Chuck

OK Chuck. I'm going to need more details on your "technique." Chocolate or vanilla???

StevieG · 07-15-2014, 12:48 PM

My toilet doesn't hold water either, so after reading all the home remedies tried vegetable oil in the bowl overnight. well... that didn't do anything except waste a cup of oil... so I figure it's time to do it right... I checked out a youtube video on how to change a seal and ordered a new seal from Amazon last night for $26 shipped to my house. The job (on a Sealand/Dometic model 110) looks really easy to do and can't take more than 30 minutes. Seems like time better spent than these short term band aids... I'll post my results.

BTW, I wouldn't give Camping World any job to do. Just my opinion... I may get a little "dirty", but it will take me less time, no gas (diesel), no aggrevation with service techs, and a lot less money to do it myself. Seems I never hear a good story in here when it involves Camping World... I can't understand how I can do a job once and get it right, and they do the same jobs all day every day and don't!

Muddypaws · 07-15-2014, 06:38 PM

Camping World has gone down the crapper. And they apparently ruined yours on the way down.

huntnski · 07-15-2014, 07:43 PM

Thanks all for your replies! StevieG good luck and do post your results, seems this problem occurs more often than most want to talk about.

For the record, day two, no return call from CW! So here is what I did, cleaned seal and ball with soap and water and vinegar mix. Tightened up ban around bowl. Then let valve slam shut! Cleaned ball again, slam shut! Started holding water. Poured olive oil in to set on ball and has been holding it for about 5 hours now.

Thanks again Irv2 members, you came through once again. If your at the national I'll be glad to show you my crapper! Lol

Cajunman · 07-15-2014, 08:09 PM

I had the same problem and tried all the little "tricks". Turned out the plastic ball wasn't pushing up against the seal tight enough because it wasn't in the "track" right. Pulled up on the ball and a quick slam shut. Boom! Back in business!

SarahW · 07-15-2014, 08:11 PM

I want Chuck to come back and tell us about the ice cream fix.

huntnski · 07-15-2014, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SarahW

I want Chuck to come back and tell us about the ice cream fix.

I, on the other hand, like to keep my thoughts on ice cream and items discussed on this thread as far apart as possible! LoL

racersedge · 07-15-2014, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muddypaws

Fact: petroleum products damage neoprene. Along with a fairly long list of other common chemicals/compound.

This applies to all types of seals and products made out of neoprene.

Is it the manufacturers 'opinion' when they specifically state not to use petroleum based lubricants on neoprene based seals? The only lubricants they recommend are silicone based.

My opinion is that you've been lucky.

toilit seals are really just a clumsey piece of black crappy rubber. a little Vaseline to soften it up every 6 months hurts nothing
don't be making this a pinion seal on a lear jet now for heavens sake

chboone · 07-15-2014, 08:34 PM

Hi Sarah,
Just seen your two posts, wasn't sure if you were serious in the first post. You can use any flavor you like, I like chocolate covered vanilla and 50/50 bars. I use the ice cream stick to clean the crud that builds up on the underside of the seal by just rubbing the stick back and forth against the seal. In the area where the ball doesn't retract all the way I gently work the stick between the seal and the ball. That has always worked for me on Sealand toilets. It's up to you if you want to use a glove, I do.

Chuck