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Old 03-10-2011, 09:14 AM   #1
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doghouse removal

2005 32w, workhorse chassis. my scanguage repeatedly shows dtc p0134 as the 8.1 engine is reaching operating temperature. there could be several causes for it. one of them could possibly be an intake leak. i've think i've eliminated most other causes. herein lies the problem and i am soliciting any suggestions you might have. i need to remove the doghouse completely so i can access the throttle body area. the small access door only enables you to see the rear half of the engine and basically only gives access to the fuel rail pressure test fitting.
i've tried crawling up from underneath with limited results. the rest of the
enclosure is screwed to the floor through the carpet tack strips with some type of sealant underneath. i know i can remove the doghouse with some effort, but i want to know if anyone has made theirs easier to remove later? i cant seem to find any type of 'weather strips' or 'gaskets' to bend around and seal it up and make it removable.

thanks in advance for any help.

william
'05 32w
'07 hhr
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:49 AM   #2
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I'm curious what dtc p0134 means. What kind of symptoms are you seeing?

As for removing the carpeting, etc it appears to me that you would have a bit of a mess on your hands and I'm wondering if you could ever get the carpet back to looking nice after you put it all back together.
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:06 AM   #3
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symptons

it has to do with fuel/air mixture which is controlled by several things, water temp, exhaust gas via the oxygen sensors, etc.. it runs good when cold, about the time it reaches operating temp, i get the check engine light (p0134 code) and i have loss of power. at first i thought it was fuel pressure or a clogged filter. the filter was changed and i measured fuel pressure at 59 pounds....so those are not the cause. a vacuum leak can change the parameters too so i want to take the doghouse off to get a better look and check stuff.

the carpet on the doghouse is glued on so no problem there. the carpet on the floor is stapled to a 'tack strip' so that can be removed and peeled back a bit. the 'tack strip' can be removed and i can pry the doghouse from the sealant and so forth, but what i am wondering is how to make the doghouse so it's removal will be easier next time. such as in a van or an older class A. i am looking for some type of metal, plastic or wood 'strip' or something i can put down to make all look nice again after i tack the carpet back.
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:11 PM   #4
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When you get the answer to the check engine lite please post....

Good luck with the dog house.
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Old 03-20-2011, 08:04 PM   #5
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I too, would like to know what you find, as my front spark plugs on both banks were very clean while the rest were normally fouled with 50k miles on them.I suspect an induction system problem.The engine is otherwise asymptomatic.
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Old 03-23-2011, 08:04 AM   #6
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re

i'll post the fix as soon as i get around to it. i wont have time until next week.
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Old 04-19-2011, 09:19 PM   #7
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code fix

hi,
finally got time to take a good look at things. i thought i'd just replace the o2 sensor on the drivers side. got the wrench out and started turning.....the sensor was actually loose in the 'bung'. i unplugged it and continued to remove it completely. it appeared to be normal and so i reinserted it and tightened it to about 30 lbs of torque. then i plugged and unplugged the connector several times. started the engine and when it reached operating temp it was fine...no codes ! i took it out for a 20 mile run on the highway and some surface streets......still no code. ! ! !dont know what the fix was, but the code is gone and i'm happy now !
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:56 PM   #8
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If your sensor was loose, It did not have a ground path. I worked on them for fifteen years and never had this happen. You are fortunate to find this gremlin.
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Old 04-20-2011, 06:35 PM   #9
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wgiff--Thanks for checking back after your "fix"-I would like to follow you around at the horse races as you are a lucky guy!
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Old 04-21-2011, 03:34 PM   #10
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wgiff and all,

As a parting note, quarterly, I will inspect every nut, bolt, electrical connection, zirc fitting, fuel connection, steering part, levler unit, exhaust system, oxygen sensor connection, inner side sidewalls and any other item I may have skipped here.
This is only the underbody inspection and usually takes a few hours and is well worth the time. Any leaks are not acceptable and are taken care of immediately.
I have owned 17 class A motorhomes and have learned my lessons as wgiff has here.
And

Steve
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