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Old 07-03-2015, 09:02 PM   #1
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EMERGENCY! Stuck on road at truck stop!

When I turn on the ignition, instead of the dash lighting up, and the (console buzzer) buzzing, it sort of half lights up. There was an instance where I used the aux-start button, heard the solenoid click, and the dash went to normal. When I turn the key to start, I hear a tick, and everything shuts off, dash included.

I used a multimeter to test both house and aux batteries. They each report near 13v at rest. Alternator was outputting right voltages when engine was running. Backed the coach up, parked it, shut it off. Went to start it, and again, only 2 or 3 of the dash lights actually light up, and only at like half brightness.


I opened up my BCC, tried my best to wiggle all accessible connections. Also reset the two little breakers at the bottom, they didnt reset however as they were not tripped.

I dont know what to do. Please help.

EDIT

I should add that my generator starts just fine. The converter runs the 12v appliances as it should.
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How to build and install in-dash usb charger No 12v socket used. Direct wired.
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:16 PM   #2
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I would keep checking for loose connections since your batteries check ok.
Possibly ignition switch also.
Good luck.
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:16 PM   #3
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Try to start it and then, feel the engine battery connections, with your hand, for heat. a warm one is a loose or dirty one.
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:22 PM   #4
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Put the volt meter on the battery cable, terminal, not the center post or stud, when checking volts. Read the volts, while trying to start engine.


If you get a big drop in volts, try probes on posts or studs. If big drop, battery dead. If small drop, check connections.
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:37 PM   #5
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I agree with twinboat. The static voltage of the batteries is less important than the voltage under a load (trying to start engine). You might run the generator for awhile, then attempt to start again. 13 volts is not a fully charged battery.
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:50 PM   #6
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Funny thing. When I tightened the battery terminal, I guess it had some corrosion and it actually destroyed the square lock nut. I grabbed up a set of vice grips and super grabbed the clamp. Wife was kind enough to turn the key and fire up the engine for me. I feel like a dumb fool for not noticing that!
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:53 PM   #7
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Glad you got it going
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:53 PM   #8
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Great! Thanks for letting us know.
Safe travels...
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Old 07-03-2015, 10:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superk View Post
Funny thing. When I tightened the battery terminal, I guess it had some corrosion and it actually destroyed the square lock nut. I grabbed up a set of vice grips and super grabbed the clamp. Wife was kind enough to turn the key and fire up the engine for me. I feel like a dumb fool for not noticing that!
Same thing happen to me two week ago on my way back from Michigan. I figured it out by using a first using a volt meter on the battery post and then using the meter on the battery clamps. There was a large difference in the voltage reading. I took the battery clamps off and cleaned them using the barbeque cleaning brush.
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Old 07-03-2015, 10:15 PM   #10
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My problem in testing was as twinboat mentioned, I was testing between the terminal and the post. Essentially, testing the post. Never noticed that little to no voltage was getting to the powertrain.

Well, off to bed, have an early start tomorrow, and a battery terminal to replace before that! Thanks again to everyone who rushed to help me, it feels good to know people care!
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How to build and install in-dash usb charger No 12v socket used. Direct wired.
Restoration and modernization of 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34v
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Old 07-04-2015, 06:52 AM   #11
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My Chassis battery lasted ALMOST 9 years (month or two shy) House made it to just OVER 9 (Same amount).

During that 9 years there were 4 times I had it happen just like you.. I went under the rig (Battery is under rig Passanger side, behind front wheel) with tools and battery load tester.. Passed with flying Color (Green) cleaned and tightened an off we went.

Did same for a friend once.

Last time it did not help so I pulled 9 year old (Actually older now that I think of it the RV is May 2005 but the chassis, and thus the chassis battery were August 2004,, still an 05 but built in Aug, Source Workhorse National Customer Service manager.. And therein lies a funny story I may post again some day).

Battery store tested it at half capacity (cranking amps) sold me a slightly larger one and off we went again.

Same store sold me larger house batteries and assisted with installation a few months later.

Good solid AMERICAN MADE batteries.
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