Quote:
Originally Posted by BAY SAILOR
I have 2001 bouder 36' with 20,600 miles on a ford v-10
chassie. Thank
you for responding. I have located the switches and will replace them today. As everything worked fine after i turned the battery switch back on do you think i'll be good to go?
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Prior to revision M the Battery Control Center would let the disconnect switch disconnect your engine battery on the road.
Here is the description for revision M:
CB-115 rev M - Replaced electronic disconnect driver with pilot relay for
transient immunity
Here is what I found on the internet:
Revision A was around 1997
Revision B was around 1999
Revision C was around 2001
So unless they change your BCC for a more recent version, you should have less than revision M.
This means that your problem could occur again if the cause was not the disconnect switch. It could also be an electrical short, or even the Disconnect Battery Solenoid (located in the Battery Control Center behind the CB-115 board) that failed because of corrosion, damage or wear on the spring or a failing CB115 board or a ground problem going to the CB115 board.
I am not an expert but unless you feel the disconnect switch is moving too freely ( or if there is water inside, or if something is pressing the switch when you drive) I don't think it is the cause of your problem. This switch acts simply as a toggle switch when we press it. This means it is passive when we don't touch it (normally open all the time). So this switch is like "two" pushbuttons. It close only when you move it down or up. But in the middle it stays open. The solenoid in the BCC change it states up or down each time it receive a signal from the Disconnect switch and it keep this states until it receives another signal. So it keep its current state even when we remove the motorhome batteries. Please correct me someone if I am wrong.
You could test the Engine Battery Disconnect switch with an ohmmeter. Or you could switch it with the other one that is the Coach Battery Disconnect switch for troubleshooting purpose.
The BCC revisions are backward compatibles. So you can put the newer CB-115 revison P found around 210$ + 20$ shipping on eBay. This would give you a better insurance but not 100% (it would isolate any problem coming from the switch or from the wiring to the switch but not any problem at the Battery Disconnect solenoid). Before a CB115 replacement wait for the advice from someone who has more experience than me with this kind of cutoff problem. Revisions M, N and P do not allow the disconnect swith to toggle the Battery Solenoid. They probably have a pilot relay that disconnect the power or ground to the switch. For your problem to occur on a Revision P, the pilot relay would have been to be burned too.
I changed my CB115 from revision B to revision P last year. Very easy.
In the Battery Control Center, behind the CB115 electronic board, there is on the left side two big solenoids. One is for the Coach battery disconnect and the other one is for the engine battery disconnect. If the problem occurs again, you could switch both of solenoids to see if it correct your engine disconnect problem. It would help you troubleshoot. Disconnect all batteries, big solar charger and the shore power before doing such a try.
So switching the solenoids and installing a revision P would give you a very good insurance but not 100% yet.
Not 100% because I had last year the same problem you have. I though for many months that it was my alarm system (it has a kill switch system connected on the brake pedal at ignition start). After I removed the alarm system I realised it was something else.
I had a Battery power cable problem going to the Battery Control Center box. See my thread called "Battery Control Center CB115 problem - how to fix it yourself" or click
here. It is called: Virtual RECALL #2.
Linear Mode
