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Old 12-15-2018, 05:12 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by 1Motorhome View Post
I made the exact same mods on my 2004 Georgie Boy Pursuit F53. So far VERY Pleased but I think I can still make it better, Mine is still pretty harsh on bumps and bridge seams.
Researching to see which direction to take to soften the ride a bit.
I bet shocks would be the next best step for you. This would be my next thing (probably last thing for suspension) but for now I think its fine.
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Old 12-15-2018, 05:13 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by mrwrench View Post
75 mph with a F53???? at how many rpm???
Yeah only for a few minutes. Afterall, i'm in southern california. But rpms weren't screaming by any means. It actually felt like cruising speed so I would say under or right at 3000 rpms.
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Old 12-15-2018, 06:17 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by DaltonG View Post
Yeah only for a few minutes. Afterall, i'm in southern california. But rpms weren't screaming by any means. It actually felt like cruising speed so I would say under or right at 3000 rpms.
I have to watch myself on level ground to keep it below 75. I think the RPM is below 2500 in high gear at that point. I'll have to look next time I'm driving it. I try to cruise around 68, but if it'll creep up.

Sometimes I'll pull to the left lane to pass a slow line of traffic, and I'll run 75 'til we clear and move back over.

Our rig is probably a little shorter and lighter than a lot of yours, but the cheap handling fix front and rear, Blue Ox Track bar at the rear, and a front end alignment settled ours down nicely. I often drive it with one hand lying on the crossbar or lying at the bottom of the wheel.
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Old 12-15-2018, 06:06 PM   #18
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Follow Waiter21 guidance. He is spot on. Toe in can be a big offender of driveability. It need to be set just as Waiter21 described.

Richard
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Old 12-15-2018, 07:40 PM   #19
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Follow Waiter21 guidance. He is spot on. Toe in can be a big offender of driveability. It need to be set just as Waiter21 described.

Richard
My handling issues are all resolved. The things I did worked perfectly. I could've done the free things first and test drove but they were an afterthought. I spoke to another RV owner who did the same things I did and he mentioned the CHF and tire pressure changes didn't do enough for him. Its the steering stabiizer and sumosprings that really took it to the next level. He did them separate. I believed him and others during all of my reading and just decided to do it all. I'm totally happy now and highly recommend all of the things I did.

On a side note, I've read probably 2 dozen posts about how caster is the important item on the alignment. They are all important and if toe-in is incorrect then of course it can handle odd or pull but you can only do so much with toe in and your tires wear badly. With caster, it makes the coach track straight while not causing any tire wear. I just google searched "caster on F53" and saw all the posts about this and people are recommending a +4 or 5 caster for it to stop the wandering. I'm no expert but this is the first time out of all of these posts that I saw toe-in being the culprit. I'm not expert, just reiterating what I am reading.

But again, I'm totally happy with the things I did and how it drives so I never needed to take it for any of these adjustments.
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Old 12-16-2018, 05:46 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by DaltonG View Post
My handling issues are all resolved. The things I did worked perfectly. I could've done the free things first and test drove but they were an afterthought. I spoke to another RV owner who did the same things I did and he mentioned the CHF and tire pressure changes didn't do enough for him. Its the steering stabiizer and sumosprings that really took it to the next level. He did them separate. I believed him and others during all of my reading and just decided to do it all. I'm totally happy now and highly recommend all of the things I did.

On a side note, I've read probably 2 dozen posts about how caster is the important item on the alignment. They are all important and if toe-in is incorrect then of course it can handle odd or pull but you can only do so much with toe in and your tires wear badly. With caster, it makes the coach track straight while not causing any tire wear. I just google searched "caster on F53" and saw all the posts about this and people are recommending a +4 or 5 caster for it to stop the wandering. I'm no expert but this is the first time out of all of these posts that I saw toe-in being the culprit. I'm not expert, just reiterating what I am reading.

But again, I'm totally happy with the things I did and how it drives so I never needed to take it for any of these adjustments.
Toe in or out will NOT make a vehicle pull. You comment is inaccurate.
I still work part time as an alignment tech, and reiterate, Waiter21 has it right.
Do the cheap and easy things first. Do you put all that STUFF on your car or pick up? So much of that STUFF is not needed in many cases. But the marketing people has the RV world convinced you need to support them by buying their STUFF.

Richard
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Old 12-16-2018, 09:01 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by RLS7201 View Post
Toe in or out will NOT make a vehicle pull. You comment is inaccurate.
I still work part time as an alignment tech, and reiterate, Waiter21 has it right.
Do the cheap and easy things first. Do you put all that STUFF on your car or pick up? So much of that STUFF is not needed in many cases. But the marketing people has the RV world convinced you need to support them by buying their STUFF.

Richard

Yeah I mis-typed. I'm not an alignment person and don't pretend to be. My whole point was all of the posts and articles I've read about alignment they all mention caster is the important one for wandering on the highway and handling. Since you are an alignment tech can you confirm this? or are they all wrong? You didn't mention anything on this...you only pointed out I was wrong on something else.

But again, it's not relevant in my case because my coach now handles exactly how I hoped it would. So the stuff "that is not needed" fixed my issues and performed like I expected them to. I touched based on this earlier, there is one RV manufacturer that is now installing sumosprings on their brand new RVs from the factory. I don't think it's a sales gimmick. Well, I know its not because I've seen first hand what it did it mine. Hell, it's even nice just walking around my coach with no leveling jacks down and the coach doesn't sway back and forth as I walk.

Asking if I put this stuff on my car is silly because my car isn't a top heavy 22,000 lb 36 foot long box. I mean, I don't have 4 rear tires on my car either. There are so many things my RV has that a car wouldn't need. Hell, I own a Tesla and it doesn't even need an engine, exhaust, gasoline, etc.

I've already agreed that doing the cheap/easy things first is the way to go, no argument from anyone there. Not sure why it's even mentioned.

As for the steering stabilizer, that 100% is worth the $400. I wouldn't even question that and I'd get one on any future RV I ever get. If anything at all, the bare minimum function it would serve is help the RV in case of a front tire blow out. The thing just wants to go straight now! I turn the wheel and it spins right back into place with the help of a 40lb spring. But the big bonus is it makes the RV drive a lot better. Don't knock it till you try it.

It's funny because when I first mentioned how the RV handles and I didn't like it some of the responses I got were "its an RV, you gotta get used to how it drives". I'm so glad I didn't take that advice. To me, this "stuff" is money well spent and I highly recommend it to anyone who doesn't like the way their RV handles....of course, after doing the cheap/easy stuff.
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