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ga traveler · 04-20-2014, 07:59 AM

This was a common problem with Fleetwood. The only thing I think that was missed, was to use stainless screws. This area tends to hold moisture and causes regular screws to rust and fail.

bossplow1 · 04-20-2014, 09:57 AM

Here is one picture of what the end of the molding looks like. The very top of the molding is where the seal is applied (and you can still see some on the coach before I cleaned it off), the top hook fits up into the slot just below that, and the bottom hook locks onto the clip sitting on the hinge rail (to the right of the hinge) There is another clip to the left of the hinge to lock the end in place. Once the seal has been cut free pull the bottom out to free the molding from the clip. Then curl down and out to remove the molding. Install in reverse order - curl the top hook up into the slot and press the bottom hook onto the clip. Reseal the top and you're done.
Hope this helps!

SarahW · 04-20-2014, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bossplow1

Here is one picture of what the end of the molding looks like. The very top of the molding is where the seal is applied (and you can still see some on the coach before I cleaned it off), the top hook fits up into the slot just below that, and the bottom hook locks onto the clip sitting on the hinge rail (to the right of the hinge) There is another clip to the left of the hinge to lock the end in place. Once the seal has been cut free pull the bottom out to free the molding from the clip. Then curl down and out to remove the molding. Install in reverse order - curl the top hook up into the slot and press the bottom hook onto the clip. Reseal the top and you're done.
Hope this helps!

Thanks for sharing that! You know that "a picture is worth 1,000 words."

teacherdude · 04-21-2014, 05:34 AM

That's a great picture and shows exactly what you are dealing with. Hopefully this will help a lot of people in the future. It really is a simple job when you get to doing it. It's the fear of not knowing that is the hardest part. Good luck to everyone who has to do this in the future. Oh, and definitely use Stainless steel screws if you can find them, it'll save you more issues down the road. And use good sealant when you reassemble it. The sealant will help a lot if done right.

Monkey Run · 04-28-2016, 05:08 PM

Ahhh so here we are, two more years passed, and I am in a similar situation although my rig is a 1999 Allegro Bus. Any thoughts on whether this molding might be the same on most coach brands? My reason is due to a water leak that is coming in behind that hinge and dripping into a basement compartment.

Velella · 01-26-2019, 09:11 AM

I have 1994 Fleetwood Coronado and the vinyl moulding is old, brittle and breaking away and I do have water getting into my compartments after a rain. The how to on this thread will be a great help.

Suggestions?

You guys are a great resource.

teacherdude · 01-27-2019, 06:42 AM

Have you called Fleetwood? They will probably have it or be able to direct you to someone who has it!

RDoran76 · 02-22-2021, 02:57 PM

Thanks "teacherdude" for your post on the beltline molding. It gave me the courage and intel to do mine. I had a rear fender that came loose and had to re-attach it to the beltline hinge. Until I read your post I had no idea how.

Here's some info on how mine came off:
Removing the molding is simple and straight forward. It is covering a long "hinge bracket" (my term) that runs the length of the coach and connects to the basement doors and fenders with self-taping screws. The molding has a "fin" on the back that snaps into a channel on the hinge. Before you begin, spray some WD40 along the top of the molding and let it sit for 15 to 30 min. This will make your job a lot easier. It will also help keep the adhesive from removing your paint as you peel it off.

Once you get the adhesive cut along the top line, the molding just pulls off (straight out from the side). Start at one end - be gentle, it is very long and flimsy. I started at the rear cap. Once I had that end loose, simply ran my fingers up under the molding gently and worked it off down past the fender I needed to re-attach. I did not need to remove it all the way down.

Next, you will need to make your repairs. This is where it gets tricky. I needed to remove the hinge plate down past the rear fender so I could pull it away from the coach to get to the screws, which are on top of the fender and had pulled out. The hinge plate on my rig connects to all of the basement doors and fenders. It is in 12 foot sections and is screwed to the side of the bus with #10 self taping screws. Looks real easy to remove, and it is, as long as you are careful. It might be good to get another person involved to help keep the doors etc. in check. The basement doors are heavy, and if you leave them in place it's a bit hard to control.

If you plan to loosen or remove the hinge plate, remove the clips from your gas struts on the basement doors in that area before you begin to avoid having them pop open, which can create so much leverage, it can bend or kink the actual hinge. You can remove the doors as you go, I left them on since I just needed to affix the back fender.

Good luck on your project.

Canfirst · 10-17-2021, 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Velella

I have 1994 Fleetwood Coronado and the vinyl moulding is old, brittle and breaking away and I do have water getting into my compartments after a rain. The how to on this thread will be a great help.

Suggestions?

You guys are a great resource.

Were you able to find out what the make and model number is for this vinyl moulding and where it can be purchased for my 1994 Fleetwood Coronado? Is it a Camco product and if so what is the product number? Thank you for helping to source this vinyl moulding!