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Old 11-10-2018, 05:43 AM   #15
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Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by computerguy View Post
I found a HEHR flush/awning service manual online. There is no note of internal sealing/caulking.
From the manual:
"(D) Is the window installed correctly?
Radius windows are usually installed with an inside clamp ring. This part is screwed together with the
window frame, clamping the wall between them. The clamp rings vary, depending on the wall thickness
specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle. This wall thickness must accommodate the actual wall
materials, plus whatever sealant is used under the outside window flange. If the clamp ring used is too
thick, the window will not clamp tightly to the wall. When this happens, the flange seal can be easily
breached and a leak occurs."
A few years ago,I decided to get rid of pleated shades and install MCD shades on my 35k terra. Upon removal of pleated shade at dinette window and window behind couch I found the top 50% of the inside window clamp ring was just sitting there, absolutely no screws,I actually had trouble removing the pleated shade because it was hung up on the window frame. It became quite clear that because the overhead cabinets had been installed before the windows, they did not have the intelligence to figure out how to put the screws in the top half of the window seeing there is only about 4" of space between window frame and back side of cabinets. So now, for me, a relatively simple shade install took 3 hours to put all screws in windows and 20 minutes to install each shade. And I must note that they had in fact,caulked the windows,good thing as that was the ONLY thing holding the top half of the windows in, I feel so lucky.
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Old 12-13-2018, 07:40 AM   #16
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Windows

My 2014 Bounder 33C ,though sold early this year, was nearly trouble free after the 2 week stay for repairs and adjustment at the Decatur repair center shortly after purchase. For five years only one window frame leaked, the small one on the living room slide. The top of the frame had never been caulked. At first I thought they were kidding about caulk being applied across the top of all the frames. It was truly invisible when casually looking at the coach.

When the newer coaches came out with the new leak proof windows I was skeptical that they were an improvement. Being able to leave your windows open in the rain did not compensate for the decreased ventilation plus having to look through the glass always. The lousy method used to make insulated glass for these new type windows never seemed structurally sound.

My new coach, Phoenix Cruiser 2552, gave me the option of the "old fashioned" sliders rather than frameless. We took the slider route. When I asked about the caulking requirement of the frame at the factory, they had a puzzled look on their faces. Caulking? All of the exterior window frames have expandable rubber gaskets to seal against the coach walls. If the wall thickness expands or contracts the seal is maintained and no caulking is required.

They use the same frames as Fleetwood used on my Bounder.

By the way, silicone caulking is Never used by Fleetwood, at least not when I did the factory tour. Silicone is expressly forbidden in the factory. The caulking used is made by Loctite. You can find it in Home Depot under the name OSD it used to be called Invisible but now called Transparent. It is polyurethane based.

Just glad I paid attention to my gut feelings about what I considered for years an inferior product and selected the sliders.

Something must have drastically changed at Fleetwood to deny responsibility for obvious mistakes.

The new owner lives full time in my Bounder as a travelling nurse. For a coach purchased in early 2013 to still be relatively trouble free, according to the new owner, because Fleetwood stepped up to the plate taking full responsibility for mistakes seems to say they have lost their way.

Sad.
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Old 01-27-2019, 02:08 AM   #17
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Hey CG... what's the status of your repair? I hope you got it fixed without much hassle.
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Old 01-27-2019, 05:37 AM   #18
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Hey CG... what's the status of your repair? I hope you got it fixed without much hassle.
Yeah. Fixing the leak was not hard. I read the window install manual and tightened the clamp ring for the window. Added a bead of caulk on the outside as the instructions say.
Fixing the water damage was not so easy though (If the installers only would have done it right the first time!). I tried to remove all the rotted wood. This was a challenge because it was glued with something that was meant to last for millenia I believe. So I gave up trying to remove everything. I did have the opportunity to fill all the empty spots with foam insulation. It is NO wonder why the insulation is so bad in these rvs. Gaps all over the place. I went to the home repair warehouse and purchased a 1/8" piece of hardboard. I cut it to fit the entire back of the wall behind the dinette to the window and to the pantry. I had extra wall covering that the warranty folks gave me when I was there in 2016. I covered the hardwood and right now it is just held in place by the dinette table bracket. I didn't install the rest yet as I want to make sure it does not leak anymore. I am in FL for the winter and it doesn't rain much. It has down poured a few times and no leaks so far so I believe it is sealed properly now. I suppose I could get the hose out and check it.
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:34 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by computerguy View Post
Yeah. Fixing the leak was not hard. I read the window install manual and tightened the clamp ring for the window. Added a bead of caulk on the outside as the instructions say.
Fixing the water damage was not so easy though (If the installers only would have done it right the first time!). I tried to remove all the rotted wood. This was a challenge because it was glued with something that was meant to last for millenia I believe. So I gave up trying to remove everything. I did have the opportunity to fill all the empty spots with foam insulation. It is NO wonder why the insulation is so bad in these rvs. Gaps all over the place. I went to the home repair warehouse and purchased a 1/8" piece of hardboard. I cut it to fit the entire back of the wall behind the dinette to the window and to the pantry. I had extra wall covering that the warranty folks gave me when I was there in 2016. I covered the hardwood and right now it is just held in place by the dinette table bracket. I didn't install the rest yet as I want to make sure it does not leak anymore. I am in FL for the winter and it doesn't rain much. It has down poured a few times and no leaks so far so I believe it is sealed properly now. I suppose I could get the hose out and check it.
I'm glad the repair wasn't too terrible, though it sucks that you had to go through that at all. Hopefully the window won't leak again and it will be smooth sailing (till the next "thing". )
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Old 01-27-2019, 11:31 PM   #20
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How did you caulk around the top? It seems as there is about 3/16" gap at the top of the frame to get the bead around the frame seal. What did you use for caulking?
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Old 01-28-2019, 07:20 AM   #21
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Quote:
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How did you caulk around the top? It seems as there is about 3/16" gap at the top of the frame to get the bead around the frame seal. What did you use for caulking?
There should be NO gap between the lip of the frame and the fiberglass. If there is it can leak. Tighten the clamp ring where you see the gap.
That said there is also the hinge for the window. Ther should be a gap of probably 3/16" between the hinge and the fiberglass. That is normal. Make sure you check what you are looking at.
Once tight I used OSI quad clear to seal the tops of all my windows. I snipped the end really small so I could get the end the thin tip between the hinge and the side wall. We just had torrential rain for about 24 hours in Florida and all looks good for me.
Hope yours is not leaking. It really creates a mess if it is.
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Old 01-28-2019, 09:37 AM   #22
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Yeah the hinge is what I meant to say.
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Old 02-15-2019, 04:33 PM   #23
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flush mounted windows

I just purchased a 2018 Pace Arrow new from the dealer. I did the walk thru and found the bath room window not sealing when cranked in. The dealer has ordered a new replacement from factory. I queried the dealer why the factory QA/QC check list was not available. Why I the new buyer must point out any discrepancies after purchase at the final walkthrough. I've temporary taped the window so no rain enters while traveling or driving forced winds to stop any interior damage.
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Old 02-22-2019, 05:46 AM   #24
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Do you have any pics to share? We just bought a new 2018 36U and all appears to be fine, but I would like to be sure I clearly understand what you are saying
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Old 02-23-2019, 01:05 PM   #25
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I'm not to savvy with posting pics here. The flush mt windows glass uses special adhesive to attach the small black frame to the glass without using a rubber gasket. This adhesive failed and separates the glass from the metal frame. its only at the bottom part that moves out with the crank knob. I've been waiting since Jan 30th for Fleetwood factory to send a replacement to the RV dealer. This should have been caught at the Factory QA dept inspector or the dealer before sale.
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Old 02-25-2019, 06:18 PM   #26
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Ok, Iíll check mine for that. Itís going in for a few warranty fixes in a couple weeks, so I want to be able to tell them what to look for
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Old 03-21-2019, 10:20 AM   #27
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Horrible construction and warranty people

2018 bounder
Coming from an ENTRY Level Winnebago to this. Been nothing but disappointed. Spent more time in shop last summer than camping in it. After a major leak and damage to cabinets..they would not authorize repairs at our dealer made us drive it 700 miles to Indiana for them to LOOK at it.
They said if we got there within 3 months of our year anniversary that they would still cover repairs.
Got there this week brought up a few other problems that have not been able to be fixed at home and they refused to fix it saying it's out of warranty!!! Wait didnt they say if we got there in 3 months of date wed be fine?? After alot of goung back and forth they fixed them but still charged us labor..only 1 thing was an ordered part!!!!
So basically did not cover anything except the pieces for the cabinet...because the other things were not on the original list. Wow..now they say no mold or damage to floors or walls from water...I dont believe them
So disappounted..in 25 years and 8 different rvs..never had this poor construction and customer service
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Old 03-21-2019, 12:50 PM   #28
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We are coming from a 2012 Winnebago Sightseer gas power had bunches of cabinet and slide seal issues to our new 2018 diesel Fleetwood Pace Arrow 36U. Iíve documented and requested the dealer to inspect the windows to ensure there are no leaks and the caulking is done correctly. Otherwise repairs are being handled quickly and professionally by our dealership. Weíre still under warranty and hopefully will uncover everything before it expires.
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