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Old 07-17-2019, 09:43 PM   #1
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Headlight operation

Wondering if my 2012 Bounder 35k headlight operation is correct. Daytime running lights only work when parking break off.. seems right. Low beams work when light switch activated... seems right.

High beams..and ONLY high beams work when lever moved forward. High AND Low beams come on when lever held in rear position... seems wrong.

I would have thought High and Low would both be on when I move lever forward.

The more light I can get the better. These lights leave a lot to be desired!

This RV has the Jeep Grand Cherokee headlights in it from factory. No modifications I am aware of.
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Old 07-18-2019, 03:47 PM   #2
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What you have described is exactly how the head lights are designed to work.
I have the same on my cars and MH.
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Old 07-19-2019, 06:49 PM   #3
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My 2013 Bounder 35K is also how you described it. I didn't even realize I had daytime running lights until I saw them in a reflection off the car in front of me. Then my wife confirmed that they turned on when I released the parking brake. After that, I was taking notice to all the RVs in opposing traffic that did or did not have DRLs. (More had them than not.)
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Old 07-19-2019, 10:20 PM   #4
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I just did the volt check with low beams on.. engine not running. The battery was 12.1v, the fuse was 12.0v, and the headlight was 10.5v. This means I am losing 1.5v in the wiring.

Plan is to build a relay harness to get more bolts to lights. This is crazy that Fleetwood did not catch or fix this!
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Old 07-20-2019, 08:38 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by SavnTheWales View Post
I just did the volt check with low beams on.. engine not running. The battery was 12.1v, the fuse was 12.0v, and the headlight was 10.5v. This means I am losing 1.5v in the wiring.

Plan is to build a relay harness to get more bolts to lights. This is crazy that Fleetwood did not catch or fix this!
Start the engine and recheck your voltages. How often do you drive down the road with the engine shut off?

Lynn
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Old 07-20-2019, 08:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SavnTheWales View Post
Wondering if my 2012 Bounder 35k headlight operation is correct. Daytime running lights only work when parking break off.. seems right. Low beams work when light switch activated... seems right.

High beams..and ONLY high beams work when lever moved forward. High AND Low beams come on when lever held in rear position... seems wrong.

I would have thought High and Low would both be on when I move lever forward.

The more light I can get the better. These lights leave a lot to be desired!

This RV has the Jeep Grand Cherokee headlights in it from factory. No modifications I am aware of.
The high beams should be working with the lever forward. (Away from the driver) The Low beams should be working with the lever rearward (Toward the driver). If you are holding the lever in the rearward position you may be activating the flash to pass mode.
Lynn
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Old 07-20-2019, 10:33 PM   #7
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Start the engine and recheck your voltages. How often do you drive down the road with the engine shut off?

Lynn
Yes, I understand the voltage will be higher overall with engine running. What I wanted to see was the drop with no alternator involved. 1.5v drop seems like a lot... it may explain why the light output sucks as much as it does.

I need to get the schematic to see what’s between the fuse and the light. Maybe just increasing the wire size would fix it... if it’s easy to replace... otherwise may go the relay route.
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Old 07-20-2019, 11:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SavnTheWales View Post
I just did the volt check with low beams on.. engine not running. The battery was 12.1v, the fuse was 12.0v, and the headlight was 10.5v. This means I am losing 1.5v in the wiring.

Plan is to build a relay harness to get more bolts to lights. This is crazy that Fleetwood did not catch or fix this!

Is the 12.0 volts at the fuse with it pulled, or with the fuse in place and the lights lit?



Either way, it is most likely a corroded or poorly mated connector/relay that is really causing the problem.


Bolts won't help. CorrosionX might if you find a bad socket.
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Old 07-21-2019, 07:19 PM   #9
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Is the 12.0 volts at the fuse with it pulled, or with the fuse in place and the lights lit?



Either way, it is most likely a corroded or poorly mated connector/relay that is really causing the problem.


Bolts won't help. CorrosionX might if you find a bad socket.
Fuse was checked with lights on. Motor was not running. So there is a .1 volt drop from battery to fuse and a 1.5 volt drop from fuse to light.
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Old 08-12-2019, 01:47 AM   #10
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Just replaced the low beams with LEDs. WOW! What a difference. I got a pair of these.

Auxbeam LED Headlights F-S2 Series 9006 HB4 HB4U LED Headlight Bulbs with 2 Pcs of Led Headlight Bulb Conversion Kits 72W 8000LM COB Led Chips Single Beam- 2 Year Warranty
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KFBPBX4..._QGruDbEQ45NRK

The stock 9006 took 51w and we’re terrible. These take 37w and are about 4 times brighter.

Now need to get high beams.
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