Community Forums

stevewitt1 · 02-02-2017, 11:24 PM

I have a 2008 Bounder 38F DP and plan on heading out from NE Wisconsin to Yuma in a couple weeks. I'm always stored in a heated building so I don't winterize. My last MH was a 29 Triple-E that heat ducts feeding the water / holding tank areas. Does anyone know if the Bounder has any ducting to the tank areas? If I stop at night should I run a small ceramic heater in any of the basement areas to prevent freezing?

Any help and suggestions would be appreciated

Steve

[moderator edit]

ga traveler · 02-03-2017, 07:17 AM

We were a Fleetwood dealer. Bounder has a short hose that runs from the furnace to the water bay. Each time the furnace comes on it supplies heat to the bay. You will be O.K. at temps above about 10 degrees. Of course you must be using the furnace and not electric heaters. One other reminder. Make sure all bay doors are closed tightly.

pcurt23 · 02-03-2017, 08:04 AM

No problems for the coach at low temperatures as long as you are using propane heat. Although the propane heaters use a lot of propane and give off a lot of humidity inside the coach. At 10 degrees we do not put out the slides.

J Birder · 02-03-2017, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pcurt23

No problems for the coach at low temperatures as long as you are using propane heat. Although the propane heaters use a lot of propane and give off a lot of humidity inside the coach. At 10 degrees we do not put out the slides.

Where does this humidity come from? Doesn't the furnace vent the combustion byproducts to the outside?

Joel

stevewitt1 · 02-03-2017, 08:57 AM

Thanks for the information everyone!!! But, remember you have to use the KISS method, Keep It Simple Steve, and I've got an inquiring mind, LOL.

I understand the furnace ducts to the tank bay, but, would that be the front furnace, or the rear furnace, or do both duct to the tank bay?

Joel; That's a very good question. I can attest to the humidity produced by LPG usage. I have LPG on my 34' Catalina Sailboat and when I use the stove there is significant dampness that accumulates on the interior surfaces. An RV furnace that vents combustion air outside shouldn't result in moisture accumulation inside the RV.

My only built in electric heat source are the reverse cycle rooftop heat pumps. I've found they become rather inefficient at temps below 35F.

I'm also rather surprised by the lack of using engine heat other that at the dash area. Coolant is carried forward from the engine to the heater core yet not tapped into for any coach heat nor an engine exchange circuit in the water heater. Anyone know why class A RV's seem to ignore engine heat source??

Steve

[moderator edit]

Tony Lee · 02-03-2017, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pcurt23

No problems for the coach at low temperatures as long as you are using propane heat. Although the propane heaters use a lot of propane and give off a lot of humidity inside the coach. At 10 degrees we do not put out the slides.

If you are using a buddy or catalytic heater then yes, you will get extra condensation inside the MH. Then the other problem is there is not going to be any heat get down to the basement and water tanks and components can freeze.

To the OP, if you are traveling in below freezing weather in the day time you need to either winterize, or run your furnace because with air infiltration into the area around the tanks, cooling will be very rapid.

My old Airstream Cutter does have an engine assist set up to heat the attwood hot water tank while we are on the road.

House Husband · 02-03-2017, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevewitt1

I'm also rather surprised by the lack of using engine heat other that at the dash area. Coolant is carried forward from the engine to the heater core yet not tapped into for any coach heat nor an engine exchange circuit in the water heater. Anyone know why class A RV's seem to ignore engine heat source??

Steve

visit us at: Oconto Yacht Club and EAA Warbirds Badger Squadron Six

It's all about price point. You just need to step up several thousand $$ to get those features. Some class A RVs do use engine heat for hot water. My friends Country Coach does exactly as you suggest.

Richard

saddlesore · 02-03-2017, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RLS7201

It's all about price point. You just need to step up several thousand $$ to get those features. Some class A RVs do use engine heat for hot water. My friends Country Coach does exactly as you suggest.

Richard

Our Foretravel does as well, tied into the Aqua Hot circuits.

Happy trails

nothermark · 02-03-2017, 08:07 PM

Burning propane or natural gas gives off water vapor as a combustion byproduct. An open flame stove or catalytic heater will do that. A sealed combustion modern furnace will do it but vents the moisture up the chimney. Modern furnaces also pull combustion air from the outside so they do not cause any air exchanges inside the heated space.

People produce around 2 quarts of water per day as insensitive perspiration and exhaled breath. Then there is water as steam from cooking, cleaning and showers. Then there is whatever is tracked in with damp clothing from outside. RV's tend to be low volume and air tight compared to a house. That released moisture builds up the humidity to where it is a problem unless steps are taken to remove the moisture.

If you are heading south then the easiest thing to do is live with it for a few days. It will take time to build up so you can hope to be in warmer weather by then.

For folks going longer term in cold weather the easiest thing is a dehumidifier capable of pulling 2 or 3 quarts per person per day out of the air. That would be 4 to 6 pints per person as they are usually rated in pints. That will probably be a small compressor unit not one of those little closet driers or a bucket of anything reasonable.

It's all basic physics and biology. You know what they say about fooling with Mother Nature! ;-)