Lighting Hot water heater Atwood g6a-8e model #

[OntheRoadNJ]

Hi,

I just bought my first rv 1 week ago and I plan to take a 1000 mile trip next week. I've been getting everything up and running. Heat, generator, fridge, and now im on the hot water heater.

I have the manual and it shows 2 different gas valves but I don't see any gas valve that looks like a gas valve from a house h/w heater or like the ones in this manual. Says its either a Robertshaw or a WhiteRodgers. The images show a regular gas valve with a dial thermostat and a plunger to depress to light the pilot. But what I have looks nothing like these. i'll attach a pic. I think its the valve i'll circle it in the pic. But there is no dial to turn it from off, pilot, on. I do see OFF on it, but that's all I see. And its a allen wrench hole. I see the electrode ignitor but I don't see a way to make it spark. Any help would be appreciated. I looked on youtube but none of them look like mine. Thank you !

[OntheRoadNJ]

I tried to post a pic but it didn't attach. ok now its attached

[Elwood58]

You do not mention what year your RV is, but it looks like a pilotless HW Heater. You should be able to just flip a switch inside the RV and wait for it to start up. If it fails to ignite, a red light will generally come on..

[OntheRoadNJ]

It's an automatic that's why it doesn't look like a manual gas valve. I found a youtube video showing both types.

Thanks,

You can delete this if you like. I can't seem to find a link to delete it myself.

[Old-Biscuit]

Yes it uses a DSI (Direct Spark Ignition) to light the propane flame


Turn on/off switch ON and when water temp is ~110*F the T-stat closes allowing DC to go to gas valve solenoids and spark electrode


Couple of suggestions:
*Remove all connections and clean them up then reinstall making sure you have clean/tight contact.
Start with the 6 pin connector at top of circuit bd
Brown wires to/from T-stat, Red wires to/from ECO--gas valve solenoids/black wires to ground, High tension wire from transformer to spark electrode,


**Brown wires on T-stat are BACKWARDS
Brown wire from on/off switch with the 'Thermal Fuse' (clear tubing) goes TO the T-stat (right side terminal)
Then Brown wire from T-stat (Left terminal) goes to circuit bd


Right side terminal is INPUT side.
When T-stat Opens to stop heating cycle the DC stops AT T-stat input
Thermal Fuse (Clear Tubing) BLOWS if a blow-back should occur (flame coming back out combustion chamber). When it BLOWS all DC is stopped on Input side of T-stat.

SO...when cleaning up the terminals/spade connectors on T-stat/Brown wires....swap them



Normal T-stat....OPENS at 140*F to stop heating cycle/CLOSES at 110*F to allow for reheating
ECO (Energy Cut Off--High Temp T-stat)....OPENS at 180*F/shuts down ALL heating due to T-stat failing and triggers RED Fault Light. Manual reset by turning On/Off Switch OFF then back ON
Thermal Fuse....BLOWS at 190*F if flame comes back outside the chamber. One shot device/have to replace if it blows


RED Fault Light is also triggered if flame fails to light/prove it lit
Flame generates a milliamp signal when it lights off. This milliamp signal returns to circuit bd via Spark Electrode

So connections have to be Clean/tight and spark electrode needs to be free of carbon/soot


Here is the wire diagram for the 8E models

[OntheRoadNJ]

Hi

I was able to light it last night after I found a youtube vid. Its a 1997 Fleetwood flair.


thanks for the info !