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12-25-2017, 10:28 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 10
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Multiplex Switches Stopped Working
We have a 2016 Bounder 34T. Mostly we love it and live in it full time.
Tonight the multiplex (illumaplex?) switch panels stopped working.
1) The front interior lights come on when the door is opened and are on a timer. They work normally and go off after a few seconds after closing the door.
2) The step disconnect switch does not work and that's how we first noticed the problem. The step retracts and deploys now each time the door is opened/closed.
3) The panels of switches will light up when one is pushed but none of the switches activate the lights, the vents, the slides etc. Normally the "active" switch stays blue.
4) None of the switch panels in the coach are working, front or rear.
5) I checked the fuses in the "control centre" in the bedroom behind the TV and there are no problems listed in the diagnostics and (as far as I can see) no blown fuses.
6) The manual switches for reading lights in the coach do not work either.
So, there is 12V power because the timed lights, the vacuflush the steps etc all work. The Dining room slide has a separate manual switch, and it works. The galley and bedroom slides are on the multiplex switches and they do not work. The switch panels themselves light up when touched but won't activate anything.
Are there two "legs" of 12V power? Is there a location where there is a fuse for the multiplex switches?
I know it is Christmas day (Merry Christmas all!) but I am hoping to get some help to point me in the right direction to solve this... Living in the dark until then.
All thoughts/suggestions greatly appreciated.
Again, Merry Christmas
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12-25-2017, 10:08 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,758
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Welcome to the forum, helluva way to spend Christmas!
I have the same model and feel that I have read something similar but can't locate it. I am on a slow connection and having trouble researching it.
First thing you can try calling Fleetwood technical support. I have found them helpful. Have your FW build ID number and/or your Ford VIN handy.
Then go to https://www.fleetwoodrv.com/warranty-questions and fill out the form and ask for schematics. You might be able to see something in them to help for the search.
Also look in the Battery Control Center maybe I saw something in there. There is a schamatic inside of the cover panel. I'd go look but I have too much holiday cheer to be around electric stuff.
Try the forum search up at the top if you haven't. You might get lucky. Hopefully someone smarter than I will chime in.
Edit: The Vacuflush and slide breakers are in the BBC and I think the steps operate off the chassis battery with a fuse in the BBC.
__________________
2016 Bounder 34T Anniversary Edition
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12-26-2017, 08:07 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Pensacola FL
Posts: 1,451
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The schematic I have for my 2016 35K shows that the multiplex panel pulls it's power from the BCC. It does not have a circuit number for that list but the schematic says it's two 6GA red wire circuits. It says that the terminal it connects to on the BCC are labeled "CIRCUIT BREAKERS" I'ld open the BCC and see if there are some internal breakers inside that are tripped. Look carefully at the inside door cover of the BCC there should be a schematic printed there that may identify the circuit. Good Luck
I found the above information in the transfer switch wiring schematic.
__________________
Brenda & AL
2017 Thor Venetian, T42 "Groot"
2020 Chevy Sonic, 2019 KTM 790 Duke
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12-27-2017, 06:05 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 10
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Update on Illumiplex
Thanks all. Tried each suggestion and here's where we are now.
I have used the Control Panel (following the User Manual found online) and checked all the fuses, and the settings shown in the manual.
Everything appears to be fine except the "8 Switch Panel Diag" screen which shows "NoComm" at each location. I followed instructions and disconnected each of the 4 communication cables on the back of the panel and nothing changed. Each still shows "NoComm".
I also removed one of the switch panels and unplugged the comm cables. Nothing changed on the panel.
The individual switch panels light up when a button is pressed, but nothing happens (ie the individual panel lights do not turn Blue). I have managed to manually turn on the Step to keep it open and I can at least turn on the lights manually as well (so we didn't eat Christmas Dinner in the dark...)
Called Fleetwood and they called back today. It's beyond their expertise so they gave me the number for Precision Circuits. I also sent Precision an email. Waiting to hear back.
Anyone know if there is a way to reset these switch panels? All devices have power to them but only manually through the control panel.
Oh yeah, did I mention it's now 15 below...
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12-28-2017, 05:57 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 221
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Multiplex Switches Stopped Working
Hopefully Precision Circuits is open and has contacted you. I have lost the operation of one switch, but not a whole panel or multiple panels. American Coach's "cure all" for this is to shut off your "Aux 12 Volt Switch" for 30 seconds or so and then turn it back on. I hope this works for you. I have contacted Precision Circuits myself, and found their Customer Service very good. Let us know the resolution.
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12-28-2017, 07:20 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 773
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Hi MarshallC and RRR, I have the same Bounder model 34T 2015 30 Aniversary, anyway interested on what you find out. I do not have this problem so can not help you.
Alan & Terry
__________________
Alan & Terry 2016 Bounder 34T
Blue Ox Alpha Tow Bar, RVi brake 2system
2023 Ford Maverick Hybrid(Toad),WeBoost,Tire Minder TPMS. 1000 watts of Solar
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12-28-2017, 07:53 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Oregon
Posts: 2,758
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Well maybe carl1 is onto something. If all else fails reboot the system.
15 below and full time in it? I commend you! What is your secret to keeping warm? Maybe FW did a better job of filling the holes in the floor then mine. I just found a 3/4 X 2" hole for passing two 16 gage wires, and another that is 3 X 41/2 to pass through two 1/2" water lines, stretched so tight I doubt I can get something around then to prevent them chafing on the floor.
__________________
2016 Bounder 34T Anniversary Edition
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12-28-2017, 07:57 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Full Timer
Posts: 270
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Sorry you're going through this. We had the same thing happen a month ago. Luckily I figured out how to manually override everything directly from the panel as well.
Basically I tried all that you did. The ultimate fix was replacing the Illumplex panel and reprogramming it. I didn't do this, I had La Mesa RV in Albuquerque do it (this is where I bought the RV and the service warranty that paid for it).
Sorry I don't have better news or a quick and easy fix for you.
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12-28-2017, 08:20 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: FT on the Road
Posts: 3,839
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Yeah, if a reboot (use the battery disconnect switch for the aux battery) does not fix it I am betting a bad circuit board on the illumiplex. Not something the typical owner wold be able to tackle.
__________________
I don't subscribe to threads I reply to so will not see your reply to my comment. Drop me a direct message if you want a reply from me.
Cheers!
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12-31-2017, 05:38 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: East Bethel, Minnesota
Posts: 205
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I have the same coach and also like it very much.
I hope this is not your problem but I had similar issues and spend hours and hours looking for the issue. Turned out the main wire harness had fallen onto the propeller shaft(drive shaft) and wore through about a dozen wires causing shorts and switch’s not working etc. this happened just ahead of rear differential. Wire is supposed to be tucked above the heat shield.
After splicing and ceiling I drilled holes in heat shield and wire tied everything up, it was just shoved above heat shield by the factory. High quality engineering?
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01-02-2018, 05:03 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 221
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Problem solved???
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01-02-2018, 08:26 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 418
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What solved the problem? I have a 2017 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 35K and it has the same lighting so I am interested in how you solved the problem, in case that happened to me.
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01-03-2018, 06:03 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 10
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Update: well, actually a non-update
First, thanks to all for the suggestions. I stepped through all of them but no luck yet. To cap things off the day I was going to call Precision (they did not call me back) I was called away to an emergency job about 400 miles away. I just got back (now Wednesday 3 January). My wife looked after the fort with only the manual switch lights and the step disabled. A real trooper.
It's also up to a balmy -13... Supposed to get warmer though.
Anyway, tomorrow I will begin again with testing etc and start with a call to Precision.
I will update as I find out more.
Thanks again all. The suggestions and support are much appreciated.
Happy New Year.
Marshall
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01-05-2018, 09:26 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 10
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Update For Real This Time
Spoke with Danny in Tech Support at Precision Circuits. He has heard of a board going dead and is sending a replacement. FANTASTIC customer service at Precision. I wish more companies were this good.
To replace the board, I just disconnect the batteries at the main switches, mark the cable locations with a Sharpie on the back (so I don't mix them up ) and replace the old with the new. No re-programming required.
I'll report back after the new one has arrived and I have installed it.
Thank you again everyone for all the support and suggestions. Much appreciated.
Marshall
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