Bounder: My Poor Visibility Headlights

[Brian W]

Sarah,

Have been talking to Robert exclusively on this issue.


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[Brian W]

Just talked with Robert at customer service and he is trying to find the diagrams to send to me. He also looked in his notes and said one of their technicians said the pictures I sent him were as bright as one they had on there lot. I bit my lip on a smart aleck reply. I would really like one of their folks to take a drive at dark and honestly tell me they would feel safe with their family in the MH.

Will post diagrams if I get them.


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[Brian W]

This is the diagram they sent me. Couldn't save the picture to my photos, so had to take a picture. Does this make sense to anyone?




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[jwmaustin]

Yes, it has wire bundles identified as they go to connectors. The table for each shows you the wire gauge for each pin. The wire gauge to each connector on the headlight is 16 gauge. Here is an example of a wire gauge table:

https://www.gore.com/IndustrialCable...wirespecs.html

Looking at it or one like it you can determine current carrying capacity at various temperatures and wire lengths. If, as it appears, a typical headlight is 55watts then 55/12volts (4.58 amps) gives the needed current for a light thats on steady.

There's more to write but I have a 9 yo birthday to attend. Back later!

[SarahW]

Originally Posted by Brian W

This is the diagram they sent me. Couldn't save the picture to my photos, so had to take a picture. Does this make sense to anyone?

Attachment 64221


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Brian--I have no idea what all that means, but to save the file you can use an online converter to convert the PDF file to JPG. Here's one I have used before... PDF to JPG online converter - Convert PDF to JPG for FREE Once the file is JPG, you can save it or share as a photo.

[Brian W]

Ok, thanks. By the way, found out the University of Memphis has an Optical Engineering Program and sent them an e-mail requesting there assistance in looking at the engineering of the reflectors and light output. Figure the worse they could do was say no.


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[jwmaustin]

Originally Posted by jwmaustin

Yes, it has wire bundles identified as they go to connectors. The table for each shows you the wire gauge for each pin. The wire gauge to each connector on the headlight is 16 gauge. Here is an example of a wire gauge table:

https://www.gore.com/IndustrialCable...wirespecs.html

Looking at it or one like it you can determine current carrying capacity at various temperatures and wire lengths. If, as it appears, a typical headlight is 55watts then 55/12volts (4.58 amps) gives the needed current for a light thats on steady.

There's more to write but I have a 9 yo birthday to attend. Back later!

So looking at the above and the drop in voltage if you assume the wiring is about 15 feet long the voltage drop would be 1.2 volts.

So here's a test. You take two heavy wires, say 10 gauge, and connect both sides of one headlight to the terminals of the battery and see if it makes it brighter.

Do I need to explain more?

[Brian W]

Will try to test this out over the weekend. Need to get my strength back up first though. Being sick sucks!


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[jwmaustin]

Good. I guess I didn't summarize but it looks to me like 16 gauge may be too small. I'll check mine tomorrow (it should be printed on the wire).

Yeah get better...you are the point man on this

[DegoRed]

Brian, I may have found a solution for you.

Installed my new lights today WITHOUT the HID bulbs installed, long story, but should have HID bulbs mid next week.

Have tried two different sets of light housings now, first set was Spyder, second set is unknown. The Spyder housings IMO are better, but the unknown brand is less expensive by about $40.

Both sets of light housing came with projectors built into the light housing. Will try to test it out tonight when it gets dark, however IMO the projector may be the X Factor for you and your poor lighting problem. You can use standard, non-HID bulbs and get better light projection with the projectors. The projectors are fully adjustable, so you could esentially dial in your light beam.

Will try to get the tape measure out and measure 200ft & 400ft respectively for you. Think I remember earlier you came up with 230ft as the sweet spot for you.

Here is what I have so far.

Close up

Close up in the dark (with garage door closed)

[Brian W]

I was looking at the Spyder LED Halo's since they are street legal but based on recommendations on here I looked at some reviews, which were not kind. As you know I am against buying HID anything........... At least right now. But if it comes down to it I will do what I have to do to keep my family safe.

Went out to the MH today to look at what I have and do a little more research. Found that the headlamps are aftermarket by DEPO out of Taiwan. MOPAR made/makes the OEM headlamps. MOPAR OEM is $327.50 for each, so $655.00 for both. DEPO aftermarket are $72.00 each, or $144.00 for both. Hmmmm, wonder which is best quality? Lighting expert Daniel Stern says DEPO headlights are typical Asian junk. Found his opinion of this manufacturer doing a web search.

I am going to try to check my voltages tomorrow using the Daniel Stern way. I have to buy a multimeter and learn how to use it first.

THis has become a fun project and I am learning a lot.

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[Brian W]

More reading from Daniel Stern on aftermarket DEPO lights and the quality of their optics.

"All of these copycat lamps start out with physical copies of the lens, and the results are photometrically pathetic... one might as well make a mould of your eyeglasses lenses and expect to be able to cast new working eyeglass lenses from the mould. Bzzt, not going to happen. The level of shape precision required to accurately focus the beam can only be achieved with optical engineering _from scratch_. Copies don't even begin to get in the ballpark. The beam patterns won't be a total mess; you'll still see the cutoff and upsweep on low beam, for example, but light distribution under the cutoff is way, way out of line with what it should be. Usually the ECE type approval ("E-code") marks are fraudulent/counterfeit, too. Same story with their DOT lights.

"Perfect OE fit and performance" is often promised in the ads for the copycat lamps. This is an out-and-out lie. Take a look at http://www.capacertified.org/press/CAPALighting3.pdf , which is the report on a large government-sponsored test of OE vs. TYC vs. Depo versions of simple, cheap American-car headlamps. Epic fail for the TYC & Depo units (see page 21 and 30 if you don't have time to read the whole report)."



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[jwmaustin]

I checked wiring quickly. Without taking the wires out of the bundle enough to find the marked wire gauge they look like 16. As I'd said, that's a 1.2 VDC drop for 15 feet or so (30 feet round trip) which is my guess of the distance to the dash around objects, etc.

The 10 gauge wire test is what I'd do if the voltage shows as low. Having to replace the wire if so wouldn't be that bad but might be more of a challenge to use your DRL's.

As I've said, my lights don't appear to be as bad as yours so I'm guessing you have some weak connections adding to the voltage drop. Otherwise we should have identical 2014 Bounder 35K's right?

I'm also curious if your lights get brighter when you rev your engine or if you disconnect only one.

Let me know the voltages you see.

[DegoRed]

Brian, here you go. The right side is a little cut off by door opening. House is at 200ft. Once again, these are NON-HID bulbs.

Low beams:

High beams: