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4Knights · 05-26-2012, 09:55 AM

I tried, took it apart- smacked it around cleaned it up but no luck. Good thing the house is only 2 miles away.

Dr4Film · 05-26-2012, 10:22 AM

OK, here's the deal.

First, you have a mismatch of electrical components. Your pump obviously was NOT a direct replacement for the one that was removed.

I recently replaced my Aqua-Jet pump with EXACTLY the same brand model and size. It was a 5 minute job with no problems.

You are attempting to replace a 7 amp water pump with a 10 amp water pump. It won't work without making the necessary wiring and controller changes too.

Second, the water pump latching controller should have been mounted as close to the water pump as possible. That device does the switching on/off of the large amp draw to the water pump. That's why you have larger 12VDC wires going to the controller than to the water pump. Now if you want to run a larger amp water pump, you first need to make sure that the size of the 12VDC wires going to the latching controller are sized correctly to handle the 10 amp amp draw. Next, you NEED to have the proper WP Latching Controller for the larger 10 amp pump. AND it should be mounted as close to where the water pump is located as possible. I am not sure as to the exact locations of where each device is positioned now, if there are on opposite sides of a common wall, that's probably OK. But if they are at opposite ends of the coach, that IS a problem.

Remember that if the wire is longer it has to be larger in size to handle the same amps.

So there you go, lots to check out to see which direction you want to go.

I was recently in a RV Park in Watson Lake Yukon heading for Alaska, My neighbor had a fairly new Shur-Flo (aka Boat Anchor) where the case had cracked due to poor winterizing. it was a 10 amp pump so I offered to sell him my older 10 amp Aqua-Jet. A 30 minute installation because of hose connections, mounting hole locations, but the wiring was all correct and the latching controller was 2 feet away from the pump. He drove away a happy camper and I had some extra money in my pocket.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

jimbo16720 · 05-26-2012, 10:42 AM

If it was pressurized and no water a valve has to be off somewhere between pump and facet. Maybe it was working the whole time and you just need to open a valve.

Dunner · 05-26-2012, 01:04 PM

Hey Doc, great advise, but did you even read post #13? Here, Let me help you out. I cut and pasted it real slow, just for you.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4Knights

Ordered a new controller from Pacific RV online this morning $49.00 included shipping. Should get it by next weekend.

YC1 · 05-26-2012, 05:46 PM

In the mean time just jumper the black wire of the pump motor to ground and you should have water. Just because the controller might not be working right is no reason to not have water pump working.

Quoting myself:
First open a faucet so no pressure can build and fool you.

If you have a voltmeter or test light it is easier to start at the pump. Find a good ground or pull your shorline cord out and connect to the ground lug of that. Place your voltmeter on the red lead and see if you have voltage or the test light showing bright. You should have a steady voltage on that wire. If that stays on when you flip the switch on or off then move the voltmeter to the black wire side of the water pump/yellow stripe. This should show voltage only when the pump is OFF. If using a test light it might light dimly when the pump is off but it depends on the type and design of test light.

If the 12 volt side/red wire never changes and the other side does not either then use a jumper to ground the black wire for a second. The pump should run. It will shut itself off of course if pressure has built so open a faucet while testing.

4Knights · 05-26-2012, 10:22 PM

Got an email from Pacific RV and they will ship my controller Tuesday. The guy in the email said to connect the 12+ and the load wire at the old controller. He said this will turn the pump on. Not sure I like that idea as it pulls the switches and the Ground out of the mix. Think I'll just run a temp lead from the 12v to the hot wire and run the black to ground.

Gary RVRoamer · 05-27-2012, 06:59 AM

No need to go without water for the weekend. For now, forget the controller and wire the pump direct to 12v and Grd. It doesn't hurt anything to leave the pump on all the time, as long as there is some water in the tank. The pump's internal pressure switch will keep it shut off as long as it has water at the pump intake.

Just Because · 05-30-2012, 06:17 AM

"Heres the deal: fresh water pump went bad( really hot to touch) replaced with a new pump, reconnected the wires (black-black, red-red) now the fun part.
Hit the switch(momentary type) pump pressurized and shut off. Went in coach and the pump light was on but no water coming out of faucet. Hit switch next to pump light( momentary type) light goes off( meaning no power to pump) but now the water is running. "

This is the first post.

You stated you have water running so why be without????

Forget the light and let the water run

Just my simple mind thinking again

Dunner · 05-30-2012, 06:26 AM

Wait till you hear "The rest of the story".

Come on Ron, post up.

4Knights · 05-30-2012, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dunner

Wait till you hear "The rest of the story".

Come on Ron, post up.

Here it is, thought I already put it in here but who knows?

My brand new water pump pressurizes like it should then when you open the faucet it drops pressure within seconds. The pump does run and is less than 6 inches from the water tank. So why does it lose pressure and only dribble? I even removed the strainer in case it was restricted same problem. Spoke with Shurflo tech support and they say it shouldn't do that- Duh!

So--- survey says??????

Old factory installed waterline is too small?
Ron is an idiot and needs to crack open the wallet and pay a professional- not going to happen as it would decrease my bacon rations
New pump doesn't work as described?
Your answer HERE-------

Dunner · 05-30-2012, 03:53 PM

No, you didn't post it here. You corrupted the "Thread Killer" thread with your pathetic whining.

Stop it!

If the waterline was good enough for the old pump, one would think it would be good for any pump.
Ron is an idiot, but that's another thread.

Remove said pump. Sit on stand with hose going from bucket of water to input side of said pump.
Install another hose to the output side of same said pump.
Apply +12 Volts to +12 volt wire going to pump to be tested
Connect -12V(ground to you) to pump ground.
Watch water spay everywhere you don't want it to.

and call manufacturer.

Any questions?

4Knights · 05-30-2012, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dunner

No, you didn't post it here. You corrupted the "Thread Killer" thread with your pathetic whining.

Stop it!

If the waterline was good enough for the old pump, one would think it would be good for any pump.
Ron is an idiot, but that's another thread.

Remove said pump. Sit on stand with hose going from bucket of water to input side of said pump.
Install another hose to the output side of same said pump.
Apply +12 Volts to +12 volt wire going to pump to be tested
Connect -12V(ground to you) to pump ground.
Watch water spay everywhere you don't want it to.

and call manufacturer.

Any questions?

I knew there was a reason I didn't like you,

the truth hurts and I AM AN IDIOT,
I pulled the pump and did what you said, ( before you said it- that's what I was doing before gracing you with my good luck and charm)
Well it's a good thing it wasn't a snake cause I'd be dead in the driveway 4 times over. Seems, I kept forgetting about the nice little winterizing valve that lets you suck antifreeze into the rig! No it wasn't off. It is too restrictive and when I pulled it off the inlet side of pump for the bucket test I get great flow of water.

No it's raining so I'll wait to hook the pump back up to the rig( without the aforementioned pos) and see how it works!

I'd like to thank everyone ( except Dunner the Rum Runner Hibiscus Guy) for their help with this boggler!

Dunner · 05-30-2012, 06:00 PM

Face it, you couldn't survive without me heckling and giving you a hard time.

So, can we rest assured and sleep tonight(except for Dunner. If insomnia doesn't keep him awake, heartburn wakes him up), knowing the new pump and new controller is going to work as they should? Light on when pump on and water exiting the spigot at the proper rate?(I typed that real slow because I was told you can't read very fast)

4Knights · 05-30-2012, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dunner

Face it, you couldn't survive without me heckling and giving you a hard time.

So, can we rest assured and sleep tonight(except for Dunner. If insomnia doesn't keep him awake, heartburn wakes him up), knowing the new pump and new controller is going to work as they should? Light on when pump on and water exiting the spigot at the proper rate?(I typed that real slow because I was told you can't read very fast)

I
Am
A
Slow reader

Thanks!

Don't know if it all works yet as I have to wait for the controller to come and hook it all back up. Raining cats and dogs here- thank God! The ground was cracking everywhere and H2O ain't cheap in these parts. ( I know you live in the desert and it only rains every 40 years) I'll repost a SLOW update when it's done. Tanks again!