Community Forums

rmueller · 08-01-2014, 03:36 PM

Nice list of stuff.

Bought the nav today. Campingworld just announced the 7735LM (Good Sam poi's) is in stock (new version of the 7725LM).

Yeah, Door county is beautiful, son's in laws are up ther and we visit often

Ron

UncleBilly · 08-01-2014, 10:56 PM

Look on Amazon for your gun locker. They have some, look like beefier school lockers 😜 but they are CA legal, so I guess they should be good for everyone else. What I plan on buying...

rmueller · 08-02-2014, 10:19 AM

Hi UncleBilly,

Yeah, I have do some measuring but I think one of those smaller Stack-on units might actually fit under the bed.

Putting a lock on the bed would be a bit of a deterrent but nothing would prevent someone from pulling the lock out of the composite material that they made the frame from...then again some metal re-enforcment here and there and I would feel pretty good.

I mean really, is someone is that ambitious then not much is going to stop them...

OK, my update so far:

Fixed the screen...that was a bit of work. Two things were wrong, looks like some clown somewhere in the process stepped on it (boot print still visible) and twisted the door and frame. Second, the installer put inner frame in just a bit out of square, leaving a gap at the top corner running down to the latch.

I ended up carefully twisting the screen door and got it flat, then I put shims behind the hinges and carefully closed the door to bend the hinges and force the door into the frame as far as I was comfortable and making sure the bottom didn't rub too much.

So because the frame wasn't put in right, the latch had about a 1/4" of play, that was solved by cutting and sanding a 1/4" piece of rubber, drilling it to match the holes in the plastic striker and with longer screws shimming the striker out a 1/4"...poof done - works like a charm. Door seals and closes tight.

The farthest rear basement door on the passenger side would open (even when locked) if you gave it a slight pull (they put the loop striker too far to the rear and the lock bolt mechanism couldn't get behind it properly). I thought I'd adjust the door hinges, they had some room to move to the left (rear), that would have solved it...but the factory runs a sheet metal screw into the hinges top and bottom to prevent them from moving. Solution was to take two channel locks, top and bottom and slightly bend the loop striker to the right (front)...another issue poof gone. Woo hoo...on a roll

Next the TV, totally a lost cause...from what I can tell, there are two things wrong:
One - the surround unit doesn't have any inputs from the TV when the TV is on the TV output (analog or digital). The only cable connected to the surround sound is an HDMI cable (and its an input cable), that's hooked up to HDMI1 on the TV...so long story short DVD's are the only thing that will play over the surround speakers...OK, now for the kicker, the TV actually has a optical connection (red laser light coming out of the connector) running back to the wiring bundle connected to the surround sound unit...however its just there to burn your retina's as it isn't connected to anything (and there isn't anywhere to connect it)!!! So, either the factory put an incompatible surround sound unit in or someone between the factory and me swapped out the surround unit...I'll bet on the factory.

Oh, and another thing...noticed the lit green LED on the antenna connection - a nice source of parasitic drain on the battery (slight but still a drain). Turns out there is a little button on it to turn it off...cool.

Next on to the squeaky microwave...OMG, driving why that thing is squeaking over every pebble in the road...This one is hard to blame the factory for, the thing squeaks at the hinged lower mounting - metal on metal. The top two screws that hold it in are tight. The issue is that the top of the unit isn't really really tight up agains the cabinet; nor will it ever be...in order to get it tight you would have to mount bottom hanging bracket to within .00001" up and down. I think the solution is to remove the unit, put some high temp but somewhat pliable material way back on the top of the cabinet that the unit can push up against and seat it tight on the bottom bracket; or put something similar on the bottom where the bottom bracket tabs fit into the unit. I'm sure if I took it to a dealer they would just give it a whack with a mallet, and call it fixed - until it squeaked again.

Still can't figure out how to remove the TV's...any one know how?

Next, working on figuring out all the other electrical/electronics, probably need the schematics...

Yeah, I'm the kid that took all his toys apart at Christmas, then put them back together before I played with them...haven't outgrown that.

So, I guess if I can find some spare time between my day job and RV'ing, I'll go into the RV repair business; I bet if I enlisted a few of you folks, expanded my garage, put in a bigger lift, we could treat customers right, and make a decent living. Maybe even franchise a nation wide operation as "In Your Driveway - RV Repair and Adjustments" - we drive to you because we love to travel!

ron

mccsix · 08-02-2014, 11:39 AM

Unless I'm wrong that little button's purpose (beside turning that green light on/off) is to control the signal booster for over the air. If you leave it on while plugged into cable you'll get a really bad pic.

rmueller · 08-02-2014, 11:51 AM

Hi mccsix,

Yep, it totally kills the signal if you turn it off.

Interesting enough, the power boost or whatever it is on the actual antenna (that's what the tech called it that did my walkthrough called it - mine is a white box above the passenger, has blue lights) doesn't need to be on to get a good signal - in fact on or off it doesn't do anything, other than cast pretty blue light on the passenger seat. New mystery to solve...what exactly does the white box do...this is awesome, almost like the biggest puzzle I've ever tried to solve.

ron

rmueller · 08-02-2014, 12:49 PM

TV surround sound audio, issue

Another mystery solved...I won't retype it...link to this post below

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/2014...lp-206705.html

mojoracing · 08-03-2014, 07:20 AM

You can use the sync bottom on the surround system remote to turn on and off both the tv and the surround system at the same time. Just a tip!

rmueller · 08-06-2014, 08:19 AM

Hi Mojoracing,

Yep, that works on mine too...apparently the TV will talk to the receiver over the HDMI; it used to be that you needed remote IR or IR blasters to get that done...pretty cool

ron

Kpjp · 08-06-2014, 06:43 PM

Ron,

Regarding your microwave:

Next on to the squeaky microwave...OMG, driving why that thing is squeaking over every pebble in the road...This one is hard to blame the factory for, the thing squeaks at the hinged lower mounting - metal on metal. The top two screws that hold it in are tight. The issue is that the top of the unit isn't really really tight up agains the cabinet; nor will it ever be...in order to get it tight you would have to mount bottom hanging bracket to within .00001" up and down. I think the solution is to remove the unit, put some high temp but somewhat pliable material way back on the top of the cabinet that the unit can push up against and seat it tight on the bottom bracket; or put something similar on the bottom where the bottom bracket tabs fit into the unit. I'm sure if I took it to a dealer they would just give it a whack with a mallet, and call it fixed - until it squeaked again.

My dealer tilted the microwave down after removing the upper screws through the upper cabinet and a second technician used GE silicone (clear) and ran a bead along the bottom hinged edge (between the rear of microwave and the wall bracket). This fixed my squeak on my 2014 Bounder 35k which was driving us nuts. We have driven about 3000 quiet miles after the repair.

Jim

Sent from my iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum

mojoracing · 08-07-2014, 12:21 AM

I originally thought my micro was squeaking but it turned out to be the table bracket rubbing on the wall bracket. A little wd40 and no more problem

Clayobx · 08-08-2014, 03:43 PM

Ron, Congratulations on your new Bounder! Welcome to IRV2. As you can see lots of Bounder owners! Glad your having fun with your new EXPENSIVE toy!

Peterp · 08-12-2014, 02:39 PM

Congrats on your new RV!!! We just purchased our 2015 Bounder 35K and love it. The punch list is not all that long (yet), but the growing pains of finding just how things operate and the cause of strange things happening is a bit scary. We just started experiencing the Dometic awning retracting on it's own in very light wind. Also the Sure Guard electrical protection system has recently decided even the generator is wired wrong, or over voltage on one leg, but only every now and then. Keep up the good spirits and I'm certain we will both learn what to bring specifically for our coaches and get fixed what is not correct. Welcome!

oakcreekeric · 08-12-2014, 03:13 PM

Congratulations on your toy !!!

Welcome to IRV2 from a fellow Wisconsinite... We are very lucky here in Wisconsin.. Our state park system is awesome..

I have a sister floor-plan to yours.. except mines an Itasca.. We are primarily weekend warriors and visit many of the state parks.. assuming we can get a reservation..

Good luck and happy travels !!

rmueller · 08-13-2014, 08:30 AM

Thanks PeterP, Eric & Denise...

Yeah the list is long, but thankfully its just piddly stuff that I'd rather do myself vs. take it in and have them fix something and unfix something else in the process.

This weekend, coming back from Door County...strange noise coming from drivers side. Thought it was the Grey Goose bouncing around in the pantry...nope, it was the drivers side fiberglass quarter panel. The mounting screw came out and it was flapping in the wind...two pieces of Gorilla tape on the side of the road and then a tie wrap at the next rest stop...back on the road no noise. Why they would only put a single sheet metal screw to hold the panel that large on is thoughtless, but luckily easily remedied.

rm