Newbie needs help wife is mad!! No hot water. - Page 3

RustyJC · 05-15-2009, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrjorin

I took it to the service center and they tell me someone has removed the hot water heater and crimped all the lines to it.

(Note to self - in the future, when diagnosing problems over the Internet, start with the basics.)

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrjorin

Can anyone point me to a place where i can find a good used one cheap?

Any RV salvage yards near you? If not, try Googling "used rv water heater" - HERE is what I get. For a new one, I'd look HERE first.

Rusty

jrjorin · 05-15-2009, 05:40 PM

Thanks for the info but I am figureing thats to much money for me right now.
Has anyone used one like the one in the link i posted before?

I have been looking at these HWH and i noticed some of them require a 40amp breaker. My trailer is 30amp not 50amp so I dont think that kind will work right.

jrjorin · 05-15-2009, 07:23 PM

I think I might have found a better solution. Please look at this and let me know

http://www.needplumbingsupplies.com/...g&NpsRfrMfg=12

TXiceman · 05-15-2009, 08:49 PM

I think any of the point source or tankless will be too much electrical load for your RV.

Better plan to do it the right way. Any recourse back to where you bought it due to nondisclosure?

Ken

jrjorin · 05-16-2009, 11:14 AM

nope it was sold to me as is

EngineerMike · 05-16-2009, 12:18 PM

I'll make this suggestion based on my experience: find out what water heater was in the coach originally, do a google search on RV Salvage, call till you find that exact unit or a "drop-in" replacement, have your local RV shop install it. Make sure when buying thru the salvage outfit what your guarantee or return options are and if those are not palatable, instead shop around for a new-with-guarantee H2O heater (i.e. guaranteed as installed by your local guy; he may insist the purchase is made thru him so his labor is covered if he has to R&R it if it turns out to be defective).

Retrofitting different type or model of water heater and you won't match the intake/exhaust setup built into your existing rig, plumbing may need additional modification... Sounds like you need cheap & simple. In this case I'm thinking the closest possible match to the OEM heater will give you the best bargain, especially since you'll be paying shop time for the install.

jrjorin · 05-16-2009, 05:18 PM

Thanks for all the replies. I am going to order the manual and see how everything was hooked up orginaly.

nbounder · 05-26-2009, 01:36 PM

You are right about the propane detector - the green light needs to be on, and (from what I understand) it 'taint. In the more sophisticated systems, if the light is off, then the main valve controlling the gas flow will not open. (I'm making some assumptions here, based on your input) To get the propane detector to come alive, you need a solid 12+ volts to the unit. This means the battery needs to be charged up, and the main 12V switch needs to be ON. Also, there may be a fuse in the system. If you hit nothing but dead ends, I suggest calling the trailer manufacturer's tech support. I have found them to be most helpful, and will step you thru the repair. They probably have done this a zillion times.