no shore power

[lakespirit]

I have 97 Pace Arrow Vision. Generator delivers 120v, but not shore power. I have 120v at both sides of the breakers when plugged to shore power, but nothing works...no outlets, clock, lights, etc.

I heard of an issue with transfer switches, but I am not sure which box it is under the 'fridge. Is it the box that has removeable lid? If so, how do you test this to see if it works? Can't really see inside of it.

[Gary RVRoamer]

Both sides of what breakers? In the load center on the coach? If so, the transfer switch worked fine. Is this 30A or 50A service in the RV?

If you have 120v to the main breaker (30A service) or main pair of breakers (50A service) when on shore power, then power is reaching the coach as it should.

[lakespirit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer Both sides of what breakers? In the load center on the coach? If so, the transfer switch worked fine. Is this 30A or 50A service in the RV? If you have 120v to the main breaker (30A service) or main pair of breakers (50A service) when on shore power, then power is reaching the coach as it should.

The breakers inside coach. 30A service. If transfer switch is OK, what could it be?

[Gary RVRoamer]

I'm at loss to explain how you could have shore power after the 30A main breaker but not elsewhere. If that breaker system works on generator, it has to work on shore power too.

Can you re-check to make sure you have 120v power to the main breaker when on shore power? If there, what about on the output side on any branch circuit breakers?

[ga traveler]

The only thing I can think of is a bad ground on the cord side.

[lakespirit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer I'm at loss to explain how you could have shore power after the 30A main breaker but not elsewhere. If that breaker system works on generator, it has to work on shore power too. Can you re-check to make sure you have 120v power to the main breaker when on shore power? If there, what about on the output side on any branch circuit breakers?

I do have power at the breakers when on shore power, and that's as far as it travels. When I put the meter on either side of the breakers I have about 123V.

I opened the box that has the relay switch (I think that's what it is. Clear plastic contraption about 1.5" square) and put the meter on the contacts inside and got 123V there as well.

The thing that I noticed is the relay really "snaps" when I turn the generator on, and I have never heard that when I plug in the shore power????

[ga traveler]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lakespirit I do have power at the breakers when on shore power, and that's as far as it travels. When I put the meter on either side of the breakers I have about 123V. I opened the box that has the relay switch (I think that's what it is. Clear plastic contraption about 1.5" square) and put the meter on the contacts inside and got 123V there as well. The thing that I noticed is the relay really "snaps" when I turn the generator on, and I have never heard that when I plug in the shore power????

That is normal. The switch is spring loaded to cord side. It is pulled to the gen. side, with a elec. coil.

[loulong]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lakespirit I do have power at the breakers when on shore power, and that's as far as it travels. When I put the meter on either side of the breakers I have about 123V. I opened the box that has the relay switch (I think that's what it is. Clear plastic contraption about 1.5" square) and put the meter on the contacts inside and got 123V there as well. The thing that I noticed is the relay really "snaps" when I turn the generator on, and I have never heard that when I plug in the shore power????

Are you measuring the 123vac from the hot lead (at the breaker) to the white neutral bus or to ground?

Also I've never seen a clear plastic transfer switch box measuring 1.5" square?

[lakespirit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by loulong Are you measuring the 123vac from the hot lead (at the breaker) to the white neutral bus or to ground? Also I've never seen a clear plastic transfer switch box measuring 1.5" square?

Measuring to hot lead and ground. The small clear thingy is inside the roughly 6" square box next to the inverter box.

[loulong]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lakespirit Measuring to hot lead and ground. The small clear thingy is inside the roughly 6" square box next to the inverter box.

I suspect you are looking at the wrong transfer switch. The transfer switch for selecting shore v/s generator power is probably attached to the back side of your AC distribution panel (The panel with the circuit breakers in it). The transfer switch you are measuring is the one that selects which source (gen/shore) is powering the front air conditioner.

They are different switches.

Also, when measuring for 120vac, in the breaker panel, you need to measure from the hot lead to the neutral lead associated with that circuit position. You may find that the (main) transfer switch is not switching the shore power neutral to the panel.

[lakespirit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by loulong I suspect you are looking at the wrong transfer switch. The transfer switch for selecting shore v/s generator power is probably attached to the back side of your AC distribution panel (The panel with the circuit breakers in it). The transfer switch you are measuring is the one that selects which source (gen/shore) is powering the front air conditioner. They are different switches. Also, when measuring for 120vac, in the breaker panel, you need to measure from the hot lead to the neutral lead associated with that circuit position. You may find that the (main) transfer switch is not switching the shore power neutral to the panel.

Bear with me...if you can help describe what the pictured items are/do, I may better understand some of this.

When you said to check for power from the breakers to the neutral lead, do you mean from where the leads conncet to the breakers themselves? And then, are you referring to the buss bar with all the white neutral wires? Does it matter wheter you simply touch the buss bar , because I can't determine which breaker corresponds to which neutral on the bar.

I hope I am making sense.

Thanks, Jeff

[lakespirit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by lakespirit Bear with me...if you can help describe what the pictured items are/do, I may better understand some of this. When you said to check for power from the breakers to the neutral lead, do you mean from where the leads conncet to the breakers themselves? And then, are you referring to the buss bar with all the white neutral wires? Does it matter wheter you simply touch the buss bar , because I can't determine which breaker corresponds to which neutral on the bar. I hope I am making sense. Thanks, Jeff

Now with the pics

[bluepill]

The white wires ("neutral") and the black wires ("Hot") are what actually carry the current in the circuits. The ground should never carry any current under normal conditions. It is a safety circuit that should only carry current in the event that there is a "Short Circuit" to a grounded item like the chassis. Under that condition there will be a fault current that should trip the circuit breaker to protect against electrocution.

Bottom line is that for a load to work properly you need the proper voltage between the hot and neutral wires.

Hope this makes sense.

Most stores with an electrical section (WalMart, Lowes, Home Depot) sell plug in testers for about six dollars that verify proper voltage and connections at a standard 120 volt outlet. Good to have. I have one plugged in at all times.

[lakespirit]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluepill The white wires ("neutral") and the black wires ("Hot") are what actually carry the current in the circuits. The ground should never carry any current under normal conditions. It is a safety circuit that should only carry current in the event that there is a "Short Circuit" to a grounded item like the chassis. Under that condition there will be a fault current that should trip the circuit breaker to protect against electrocution. Bottom line is that for a load to work properly you need the proper voltage between the hot and neutral wires. Hope this makes sense. Most stores with an electrical section (WalMart, Lowes, Home Depot) sell plug in testers for about six dollars that verify proper voltage and connections at a standard 120 volt outlet. Good to have. I have one plugged in at all times.

Thanks for that. In the one picture, the circled item I am curious about is the cylindrical thing the black wires are inside of.

I understand the black/white wire concept. I would like to know whether it matters where on the neutral bar I contact to verify voltage?

Can you explain what may cause me to have 120VAC when running the generator, and no 120 when plugged into shore power?

Thanks.