Norcold Issues

[Film Guy]

Perhaps this sounds familiar. I bought a 2007 Southwind 32V with low miles from a private party and got a good deal. One of the things that sold me on the rig was the Norcold four-door fridge with icemaker. I sold my Jamboree that had a Dometic two-door icebox, and thought I would be enjoying a nice upgrade in the Norcold. Not so.

I was warned at the first rally I took the coach to, that the fridge had an outstanding recall due to the likelihood of the coils overheating and igniting the surrounding material. I checked, my fridge had already had the recall installed.

Over the course of the few years we have owned this coach, the refrigerator has been a source of concern and constant service issues (the recall box shuts the unit down for various reasons). I could go into details, but to save time, I’ll get to the point. The recall box (latest edition) usually shuts the unit down a couple of times a year. And, yes, I have tried a magnet to reset the box with no success – I may be doing it incorrectly. All the service techs I have spoken to are legally bound not to reveal the voodoo to reset the box yourself, I get it.

I have been in Shipshewana and talked to a company that manufactures and installs retrofit tubing which runs cooler (odd that Thetford wouldn’t get the clue and do the same), which may be my next move to reduce the fire hazard. I also saw a YouTube video of someone who did the refit themselves and installed a fire extinguisher inside the refrigerator cavity and added some extra cooling fans. Probably over my head to do myself. Dometic makes a four-door unit but the plumbing is slightly different and it’s deeper than the Norcold. Bummer.

Here’s what we have done so far to minimize the chance of fire:
Routinely inspect and clean the service area and roof vent without using water or liquids of any kind. Travel and sleep with the unit shut off.

The recall box has been changed out, but the problem of random shut-down still concerns me. Does anyone share my problems/concerns with this unit, and how have you addressed them?

[tropical36]

Originally Posted by Film Guy

Perhaps this sounds familiar. I bought a 2007 Southwind 32V with low miles from a private party and got a good deal. One of the things that sold me on the rig was the Norcold four-door fridge with icemaker. I sold my Jamboree that had a Dometic two-door icebox, and thought I would be enjoying a nice upgrade in the Norcold. Not so.

I was warned at the first rally I took the coach to, that the fridge had an outstanding recall due to the likelihood of the coils overheating and igniting the surrounding material. I checked, my fridge had already had the recall installed.

Over the course of the few years we have owned this coach, the refrigerator has been a source of concern and constant service issues (the recall box shuts the unit down for various reasons). I could go into details, but to save time, I’ll get to the point. The recall box (latest edition) usually shuts the unit down a couple of times a year. And, yes, I have tried a magnet to reset the box with no success – I may be doing it incorrectly. All the service techs I have spoken to are legally bound not to reveal the voodoo to reset the box yourself, I get it.

I have been in Shipshewana and talked to a company that manufactures and installs retrofit tubing which runs cooler (odd that Thetford wouldn’t get the clue and do the same), which may be my next move to reduce the fire hazard. I also saw a YouTube video of someone who did the refit themselves and installed a fire extinguisher inside the refrigerator cavity and added some extra cooling fans. Probably over my head to do myself. Dometic makes a four-door unit but the plumbing is slightly different and it’s deeper than the Norcold. Bummer.

Here’s what we have done so far to minimize the chance of fire:
Routinely inspect and clean the service area and roof vent without using water or liquids of any kind. Travel and sleep with the unit shut off.

The recall box has been changed out, but the problem of random shut-down still concerns me. Does anyone share my problems/concerns with this unit, and how have you addressed them?

If this would be safety issue, bothers you that much, have you considered just replacing it with a residential unit? Even the smaller and under $400 models have more cu ft of space than what you have now and the power draw is minimal.

[bruce91]

Originally Posted by Film Guy

Perhaps this sounds familiar. I bought a 2007 Southwind 32V with low miles from a private party and got a good deal. One of the things that sold me on the rig was the Norcold four-door fridge with icemaker. I sold my Jamboree that had a Dometic two-door icebox, and thought I would be enjoying a nice upgrade in the Norcold. Not so.

I was warned at the first rally I took the coach to, that the fridge had an outstanding recall due to the likelihood of the coils overheating and igniting the surrounding material. I checked, my fridge had already had the recall installed.

Over the course of the few years we have owned this coach, the refrigerator has been a source of concern and constant service issues (the recall box shuts the unit down for various reasons). I could go into details, but to save time, I’ll get to the point. The recall box (latest edition) usually shuts the unit down a couple of times a year. And, yes, I have tried a magnet to reset the box with no success – I may be doing it incorrectly. All the service techs I have spoken to are legally bound not to reveal the voodoo to reset the box yourself, I get it.

I have been in Shipshewana and talked to a company that manufactures and installs retrofit tubing which runs cooler (odd that Thetford wouldn’t get the clue and do the same), which may be my next move to reduce the fire hazard. I also saw a YouTube video of someone who did the refit themselves and installed a fire extinguisher inside the refrigerator cavity and added some extra cooling fans. Probably over my head to do myself. Dometic makes a four-door unit but the plumbing is slightly different and it’s deeper than the Norcold. Bummer.

Here’s what we have done so far to minimize the chance of fire:
Routinely inspect and clean the service area and roof vent without using water or liquids of any kind. Travel and sleep with the unit shut off.

The recall box has been changed out, but the problem of random shut-down still concerns me. Does anyone share my problems/concerns with this unit, and how have you addressed them?

First thing i did to our new to us MH with a Norcold was to get an ARP (refigerator control device)

You can search on this forum for ARP and have much to read and go to ARP website.

click here for link to ARP

[powercat_ras]

the ARP control, see website arprv.com, will shut down the heat source whenever the temp of the boiler assembly exceeds the safe operating maximum. It auto resets. It is totally different than the Norcold recall box which does not shut down until the boiler assembly is 100s of degrees ABOVE the safe operating maximum. This will prevent any further damage to your Norcold from the corrosion inhibitor being lost due to over heating. It will also limit the maximum pressure that gets put inside the tubing, the overheating causes higher pressures.

Why Norcold and Dometic don't license the ARP Control patent and build it's protection circuit into every new absorbtion refrigerator is beyond me. It would add less than $ 20 plus the patent license cost to the manufacturing cost of a refrigerator.

Generally tubing leaks or ruptures at the higher pressures that cause the highest stress. The fire is from the ammonia gas that escapes in a rupture if it gets ignited before it can escape out the vents.

So bottom line the ARP control will minimize your risk of a event that leads to a fire.

The other thing you can do if you are very cautious is place a fire supression ball in the refrigerator compartment, such as the AFO Fire Ball or similar device.

[Brockx]

Fleetwood has changed over to residential refrigerators in most of their 2017 units (Gas models class A and C, I have not looked at the Diesels).

I fought my Norcold 1200 and changed to a Whirlpool 11 cubic ft, it has as much room as the Norcold (they advertise 12 cu.ft but are less than that). The Whirlpool with the doors off will go thru the RV door with room to spare, fits the Norcold opening in height and 8 inches to spare in width. I am using that 8 inches for a slide out pantry. Fleetwood is using this in some of their 2017 floorplans.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/power...or-312587.html

[Dale70]

I have the Norcold 1200LRIM two door refrigerator and about two years ago went through exactly what you are going through. Recall reset problems. poor cooling -- all that and more.

My solution was the "Amish" cooling unit -- (which I installed myself) and the ARP controls mentioned by others.

The refrigerator now cools fantastic and we have had it out west in 108 Deg F temps. We usually keep it set slightly below middle.
It makes Ice cubes easily all the time.

The ARP controls are useful when traveling and not level, as well as monitoring preformance.

I am in the minority but I prefer the capability of having both 110 and Propane. I have the refer on propane while traveling, and then 110 when at a campground it that is available.

Next week we will be in Key West in the middle of a field for 10 days with no services -- That is not an issue at all with propane.

good luck --- Dale

[Film Guy]

Hi - I am checking in to the ARP add on, and the "Amish" fix may be in my future. I really like the propane option also (but I have investigated a residential model replacement).

Thanks for the input

[D Lindy]

Before spending money on the ARP, and Amish cooling system, look at the coat of just replacing the whole unit with a Samsung unit. There's lots of owners that have done this and there's one Samsung unit that is almost a direct replacement as far as size goes. Also the Samsung units will run just fine on a modified sine wave inverter. Also you'll always have nice hard frozen ice cream too.

[Film Guy]

Hi - Thanks for the input. I like the idea of mounting a fire extinguisher ball in the fridge cavity. Have you tried this? It would be a real mess if it deployed without live flame. Thanks again.

[Film Guy]

Hi All,

I have been looking for a good installation video for the ARP control unit being added to a Norcold 1200.. I'm still fuzzy about how the unit works - more to the point - does it REPLACE the Norcold recall box, or is it in addition to the Norcold recall?

If I add it to my Norcold 1200, is there an additional panel added to the front of the fridge?

Thanks again.

[irishguy]

Originally Posted by D Lindy

Before spending money on the ARP, and Amish cooling system, look at the coat of just replacing the whole unit with a Samsung unit. There's lots of owners that have done this and there's one Samsung unit that is almost a direct replacement as far as size goes. Also the Samsung units will run just fine on a modified sine wave inverter. Also you'll always have nice hard frozen ice cream too.

Doesn't one have to add a couple more batteries and a pure sine inverter to practically switch to a residential fridge?

[Brockx]

Originally Posted by irishguy

Doesn't one have to add a couple more batteries and a pure sine inverter to practically switch to a residential fridge?

If you are a "boonedocker", Yes. If you are a traveler and normally stay at a Rv facility with power, No.

You can run your generator while traveling, constantly or as needed, many do it to use the House AC.

Or you can install an inverter to power the fridge while driving, the engine alternator will supply plenty of power for the inverter.

My choice is the last one.

[irishguy]

Does it have to be a pure sine inverter? Our monaco has a modified sine inverter with four 6 volt house batteries.

How do most people secure a residential fridge in place?

Irishguy

[Brockx]

Originally Posted by irishguy

Does it have to be a pure sine inverter? Our monaco has a modified sine inverter with four 6 volt house batteries.

How do most people secure a residential fridge in place?

Irishguy

My coach does not have a factory inverter, so I bought a PSW thinking it was the safe route and possible TV use. I would call your coach manufacturer and ask them.