Bounder: Oasis Door Awning will not retract

[Muddypaws]

We have a Dometic Oasis-Elite Automatic power door awning. Model 974(XX)56.

It is stuck in the extended position. In fact it extended itself while parked in front of our house. It has power and I can hear the motor turning but it acts like there is a stripped gear or a sheared pin in the drive.

I can push it in but it will not lock in the closed position, the preloaded springs cause it to roll out immediately.

Has anybody dealt with this before?

Very frustrated with this motorhome. Of 15 trips we've had only 2 where something didn't break or wear out. Now it's breaking just sitting there.

[Muddypaws]

One edit:

The gear is not stripped. The gear turns, the fabric roller does not. So there's got to be a shear of some sort. I've looked all over for a drawing of the internals, no luck so far.

[pcurt23]

When mine failed it was because there was water in the motor. I took it apart drained the water. Drilled a small hole in the bottom for the water to escape next time and filled the hole on top with calk. You need to remove the porch light to get at the motor. Three years later still good.

[Muddypaws]

I sent Dometic Tech Support an email yesterday and got a reply this morning. They even circled the probable failed part for me. In my opinion that's pretty good customer support.

The attached PDF is the exploded drawing and parts list. If you have one of these awnings it might be a good idea to download and print it out for your folder.

Muddypaws

[Clifftall]

Thanks for the file. Which part was broken on yours? I didn't see anything circled.

[Muddypaws]

Funny about the circle. It's on my copy of the file.

Part # 7 on the diagram. I ordered it and 4 plastic pins. $137 with tax & shipping. Shipping alone was $25!

Funny about the circle. It's on my copy of the file.

[firedoc]

We had the same problem with our entry awning. Poor engineering. It's not a matter of if but when will yours fail. We had to duct tape ours to keep it closed. Dealer repaired it under extended warantee. Showed us where the detent was worn that it clicks into to hold it closed. Probably would be an easy fix for someone fairly handy. We got a new cap.

[Muddypaws]

The gearshaft is 'D' shaped. The cap drive socket is supposed to be 'D' shaped to match.

Upon dis-assembly I found that the gearbox was not mounted securely to the roller and as the roller turned the motor and gearbox would move. It was probably this movement that wore the 'D' shaped cap (made out of crappy metal) into an 'O'.

There is no way to get at the 3 screws that secure the motor/gearbox without taking the whole thing apart so a dab of Loc-Tite might be a good idea.

[Muddypaws]

I got the new parts this afternoon. It took more time to locate the loc-tite than to put the awning back together.

I went to a local RV shop and an ACE Hardware with a sample of the adhesive/sealant FW used to install the awning. They had no clue. It acts like the butyl rubber used to glue windsheilds in, but it's grey.

I'm wondering if I should go ahead and use an automotive butyl adhesive?

[Chezhead]

It's most likely eternabond. That's what they used on my external patio/door light.

[Muddypaws]

I've used Eternabond before. If I used it on the awning I'd never be able to remove it again. That stuff is stronger than the very hubs of hell.

I think I found what I need. Elasatseal 2000 Series Butyl Tape | Seal Design | Official Website

It's weird that they guy at the first RV place didn't know what I was talking about or recognize it from the sample I had. It was a new store and it's possible he had little experience. I think it's the same adhesive used in vent replacement kits.

[Muddypaws]

I got it all put back together and re-installed. It was an easy one man job despite what Dometic says, just don't try to do it on a windy day. I removed the 3 mounting screws, cut the adhesive with a putty knife and slid it 1/3 of the way off. Then I forced it to roll up and used a bungee cord to hold it closed. After that it was an easy matter to get under it and slide it the rest of the way off.


Putting it back on was easy. Once I replaced the cap and put the drive assembly back together I used a drill battery to retract it just by touching the wires to the battery terminals. It stays retracted.

I got a vent mounting kit with 8 feet of butyl tape and used just over 4 feet of it. Getting the holes in the awning to line up with the existing holes in the wall was tricky but not impossible. Once the butyl tape touches the wall that's IT so I didn't pull the backing paper off the butyl until I was sure it was positioned perfectly.

I temporarily twisted the wires together and checked the operation via the remote. I ASSUMED that the red wire from the control box went to the red wire from the motor. Not so! If you ever work on one of these test it before making any crimped connections.

It works better than ever. Quiet and quick and it closes all the way now.

On the road again!

[SarahW]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muddypaws I got it all put back together and re-installed. It was an easy one man job despite what Dometic says, just don't try to do it on a windy day. I removed the 3 mounting screws, cut the adhesive with a putty knife and slid it 1/3 of the way off. Then I forced it to roll up and used a bungee cord to hold it closed. After that it was an easy matter to get under it and slide it the rest of the way off. Putting it back on was easy. Once I replaced the cap and put the drive assembly back together I used a drill battery to retract it just by touching the wires to the battery terminals. It stays retracted. I got a vent mounting kit with 8 feet of butyl tape and used just over 4 feet of it. Getting the holes in the awning to line up with the existing holes in the wall was tricky but not impossible. Once the butyl tape touches the wall that's IT so I didn't pull the backing paper off the butyl until I was sure it was positioned perfectly. I temporarily twisted the wires together and checked the operation via the remote. I ASSUMED that the red wire from the control box went to the red wire from the motor. Not so! If you ever work on one of these test it before making any crimped connections. It works better than ever. Quiet and quick and it closes all the way now. On the road again!

Good job! Thanks for the "how to"; your explanation might help someone else out.