Bounder: Older Bounder starting issues

[captaindesmo]

I have a 92 Bounder 31' and am having an issue starting, It's like this. The previous owner wired up a theft deterent setup where (as instructed by PO) I first turn on batteries (by door) then insert key, pull headlights on, push a button to left of headlight switch and hold in, then crank ignition key to start. Has worked ok before, might not be the problem. the other day it wouldnt start so thought Maybe dead battery. I jumped it off my van and it started after a couple minutes the van quit running and jumpers were real warm. afraid I might have damaged something I quickly removed jumpers and the van would not start. After a while it started ok and has since, Now MH wont start again. When rain stops I will put a tester on the battery, but for now I have questions, doesnt it have a backup using house batteries? Do I need to turn on all batteries to start engine? Generator will crank while engine wont, does generator charge batteries? Isnt there a battery cond. meter? Is there some procedure for jumping a MH different from a car? Why were the cables hot and van died? Are battery rocker switches prone to unreliable. Looking forward to using our first MH soon as I get a few bugs worked out. PS when batteries are on I hear ticking from a vent type panel next to door behind stove/fridge lie a self starter trying to constantly start

[captaindesmo]

OOPS! almost forgot, Any answers to any of these questions will be greatly appreciated, Or any tips regarding emergency starting, troubleshooting or charging with a 10amp charger or using the chargers 55amp start position, concerned about causing more problems.

[Nick-B]

Hi Captaindesmo!

First you need to know if you truly have any battery voltage. You should pick up a basic volt-ohm meter at Harbor Freight or Radio Shack. With an RV they are a helpful tool and with an older rig absolutely indispensable.

I'm guessing your chassis battery is toast which would put a heavy drain on your van when you jumped it. Hopefully you didn't hurt the van alternator.

The vented cover by the stove is likely the charger/converter. It takes 110v and converts to 12v to run the coach systems and charge the batteries. Sounds like it is struggling to do its job with possibly bad batteries or it is defective.

Charge the batteries on the 10 amp setting and see if the they hold the charge. If not, replace.

The generator will charge the coach batteries and possibly the chassis battery.

I would be wary of the anti-theft system as well. It may be working fine or it could be causing problems. Motorhome electrical systems are complex enough without adding additional complexity.

[captaindesmo]

heres the latest, I put a 2amp trickle charge overnight today charger showed "complete" and It started right up. I checked the fridge and the selector was on Gas, I turned it to Off and the clicking stopped. Must have been self starter for fridge? Lit up generator for a few minutes, sounded fine. Still dont like the rocker switches for batteries and would prefer iluminated toggle switches. After I ran it I hit the battery cond. button and all three lights come on (good,fair, poor, i think) same as they did when battery was dead what, is this telling me. Even though battery is charged, it is not good. I will check it later with voltmeter and see if Its holding. If it reads 12.7 (?) or so check it daily to see how long it stays up. What voltage drop in what amount of time would determine its condition, It is a two year old Red Top maint.free that looks like new.

[nbounder]

My dear daughter bought a car with an aftermarket alarm. car was from california, so the alarm was really "done big". After a few months, the same thing happenedd to her as happened to you. She had to get it towed to an alarm 'specialist who just removed the stupid aftermarket circuit and she lives happily ever after. Suggest you drive to an alarm place while you still can and get that POS removed.