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Old 03-10-2018, 12:34 PM   #15
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Beautiful vintage Eagle!

On your diesel questions.....it is always best to park it with a full tank but I have many times parked it with 2/3's of a tank and not experienced any problems in south or north Florida. I do add a little biocide occasionally.

The Biodiesel blends sold at many truck stops will likely not cause you any issues...but spare fuel filters are your insurance policy.

It does not get cold enough here in N. Florida to cause you any fuel gelling problems.

And as has already been pointed out, the auto-diesel small nozzle pumps are your best bet for a complete fill.

You will learn to love your mechanical C series Cummins!
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Old 03-10-2018, 03:36 PM   #16
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Hi Charles!

I agree with the others, I add some additive once in a while to keep the fuel clean in the tank. I also try to have a full tank when I park for a long time, keeps condensation from forming. No worries about winter fuels, unless you decide on that Alaska trip! Or maybe you and Bev take the Eagle Sking in Vermont!!! LOL

I frequent the truck isles. Have had a few bad experiences in the close quarters at the small vehicle pumps. Many small vehicle operators are not at all "polite or respectful" of the challenges you have getting around in tight spaces. I am always respectful of the truckers, I fill and get out of the way. The issue with not getting a full tank is diesel is high detergent. When the pump clicks off, try waiting a minute, the suds will be gone and you will be able to add more easily.

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Old 03-10-2018, 03:37 PM   #17
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1) Fuel spilling on the side....What I do is take a wad of paper towels and warp them around the nozzle. This seems to work well.

2) In the mid west is is hard to find fuel that does not have some bio diesel in it. I do try to avoid it. If the fuel in a pump is delivering Bio Diesel, it will be marked on the pump.

2a) Never heard that bio diesel will clean the tank, I have heard that you can get algae when you use bio diesel.

2b) keep extra filters on hand. I carry a full set. You are going to use them anyway, so keep a set in the basement.


2c) yes get a extra set of filters and keep them on hand. I use FleetGaurd.

3) Stick with the truck stops if you can. Maintenance on the stations filter is most likely kept up to date.

4) keep the tank full if you can. I use the Diesel Clean every other tank. Most important is to lubricate the injector pump (they cost $8,000).

5) In your scenario I would not worry to much about jelling. Start to worry if it sits for extended periods of time in sub freezing weather.

These are intelligent questions.

Glenn Lever
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Old 03-11-2018, 12:21 AM   #18
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Missing nut and lock washer

I am slowly working my way around the coach. While I was looking at the engine I noticed that the alternator mount was missing a fastener. A close look at the stud (circled in yellow) revealed a bit of rust on it. I am guessing that the nut has been missing for a while.



So, off to the auto parts store. I took the top nut with me to match. I now know it is a 1/2"-13 thread. I replaced the old top nut with a new lockwasher and added a new nut and new lockwasher at the bottom. It did run ok without the bottom fastener. But, silly me, I like all of the parts to actually be there.



The local auto parts store only had a nylock nut available. The nylon collar just barely covers the thread. However, I am relying on the lockwasher to hold the nut in place, not the nylock.

If anyone thinks this is the wrong type of nut, please let me know. I can search for a replacement if needed. Obviously it does not match the top nut. I also do not know if the new nut will rust. I guess time will tell.

I am also finding out that the local auto parts stores probably are not going to have some of the items I need for these projects. Online shopping will most likely be an important part of my adventures.
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Old 03-11-2018, 06:27 AM   #19
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Charles,
The nylock takes the place of the lock washer. If you remove the lock washer, the nylock will fully engage. Although you don't need one on there, it doesn't hurt anything. Good eye on catching the missing nut.
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Old 03-11-2018, 07:04 AM   #20
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Good catch and fix Charles!

If there is one near you,,,, my favorite for fastners is Tractor Supply.

Have a great day.

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Old 03-11-2018, 08:12 AM   #21
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Was the alternator mount threaded? I'm wondering how long the bolt would stay if it wasn't. The nut you added will be fine.
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Old 03-11-2018, 09:10 AM   #22
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Nylock is good.

A good place online for fasteners is Albanycountyfasterens (yes it is all one word) https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/
typically I get my orders in two days.

One thing you want to pay attention to is the "grade" of the fasteners you are using. I would stay away from "hardware store grade (Grade 5)", and strive to use Grade 8 when possible (not really needed in this case). Another advantage to Grage 8 hardware is that it is coated and will resist corrosion (looks pretty with the yellow zinc coating as well).

You should also try and use stainless fasteners when possible (Stainless is not as strong as Grade 8 but resists corrosion much better.

Nice catch, the missing bolt was putting a lot of strain on that other bolt.

Glenn Lever
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Old 03-11-2018, 09:40 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackwrench View Post
Was the alternator mount threaded? I'm wondering how long the bolt would stay if it wasn't. The nut you added will be fine.
Edit: I see now the bushing in the alternator mount that's not threaded.

Good catch! Been my luck I'd got 10 miles from everything and it spit that long bolt out! Ha-ha


The nut is perfect, however as noted above, remove the lock washer and reinstall the lock nut. That will allow more of the bolt to protrude though the nut where the nylon is.
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Old 03-12-2018, 02:22 PM   #24
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Compartment door gas springs

I need to start working inside the basement on a number of things. However, most of the doors will not stay open without propping them up with a stick or something. And, that's not a good idea.

So, it is time to replace the gas springs. Glenn mentioned, in his Project thread, that he was able to get replacements from American Coach. They were at a reasonable price. I will probably do the same.

The current ones are manufactured by "Spring Lift" with part number "SL 3 60" on the label. I believe that means Spring Lift, style #3, 60 pounds of force.


What I need to know: How does one change the gas springs?

I work with similar springs/pistons in my day job. I know that they cannot be compressed by hand. During the assembly of our product, we move the parts around so that a fully extended piston can be installed. We also use pistons with a ball and socket type connection.

The pistons on the coach have "blades" on each end. They slip over the mounting piece, then a retaining ring is installed. (I have no intention nor desire to change the connection method!)

Here are photos of each end of one of the pistons.



Is the piston in its completely extended position when it is near complete extension (door open)? So, the old one can be removed and the new one installed with just an inch or two of movement of the door? (It does sound like a two man operation. Or, at least some creative support of the door.)

Or, are the pistons shipped with a strap around them (lengthwise) to keep them in a partially compressed state until installed?

What is the magic secret?

Is there something else about this that I do not know?
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Old 03-12-2018, 03:19 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwk View Post
I need to start working inside the basement on a number of things. However, most of the doors will not stay open without propping them up with a stick or something. And, that's not a good idea.

So, it is time to replace the gas springs. Glenn mentioned, in his Project thread, that he was able to get replacements from American Coach. They were at a reasonable price. I will probably do the same.

The current ones are manufactured by "Spring Lift" with part number "SL 3 60" on the label. I believe that means Spring Lift, style #3, 60 pounds of force.


What I need to know: How does one change the gas springs?

I work with similar springs/pistons in my day job. I know that they cannot be compressed by hand. During the assembly of our product, we move the parts around so that a fully extended piston can be installed. We also use pistons with a ball and socket type connection.

The pistons on the coach have "blades" on each end. They slip over the mounting piece, then a retaining ring is installed. (I have no intention nor desire to change the connection method!)

Here are photos of each end of one of the pistons.



Is the piston in its completely extended position when it is near complete extension (door open)? So, the old one can be removed and the new one installed with just an inch or two of movement of the door? (It does sound like a two man operation. Or, at least some creative support of the door.)

Or, are the pistons shipped with a strap around them (lengthwise) to keep them in a partially compressed state until installed?

What is the magic secret?

Is there something else about this that I do not know?
There is no magic secret. The "shock" are weak enough that you can compress then enough to install them. The only need for a second person is to hold the door open while you change out the shock.

Glenn Lever
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Old 03-12-2018, 07:02 PM   #26
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Wow Looks just like My 92 !
I have files full of Info from the Genny to the rear Bumper if you need anything just let me know !
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Old 03-12-2018, 11:07 PM   #27
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Wow Looks just like My 92 !
I have files full of Info from the Genny to the rear Bumper if you need anything just let me know !
I have been waiting for you to put your hand up. I sure you can be a great resource for him.

Glenn Lever
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Old 03-13-2018, 05:33 AM   #28
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Charles,

Looks like you are going to do just fine with Eagle. Lot's to learn but remember that you have the time and a lot of fun to look forward to.

See you at a future M&G. Lynne
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