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Old 03-13-2018, 11:07 AM   #29
cwk
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Speedometer/Odometer/Genny Hour Meter

Thanks for the info on the gas springs for the basement doors. After reading Glenn's comments, I took another look at the rear engine door. The pistons (shocks) are fully extended when the door is open. Changing those pistons will be easy. The basement doors appear to be similar.

I found what looks to be OEM replacements at walmart.com (Atwood, Spring Lift SL 3 60). I ordered two for delivery to the local store. They were 13.03 each. They should be here by Friday. If they work, I will order enough for the remaining 7 doors. Thanks!


There are a lot of issues that still need addressing to get The Eagle up to my standards. But, I will try to address them one at a time here.

Remembering that I purchased this on 2/25, and to keep in compliance with Florida rules, I need to have this registered in FL by 3/27. (If that sounds wrong, remember that February only has 28 days this year.) My goal is to have it registered by 3/26 to avoid the late fee.

One of the known issues is that the speedometer/odometer is non-functional. Also, the generator hour meter is non-functional.

PO state that the speedometer stopped functioning properly about 3 years ago. He has been using a GPS to determine his driving speed. I did the same on the 325 trip back to FL.

I would like to have the odometer working when I visit DMV to register the coach. Part of the initial registration are physical VIN and odometer verifications. I do not know what would happen if the odometer is non-functional.

Let me share what I know.

1) The speedometer is pegged at 120MPH at all times. With or without power, the reading is the same.

2) a) With power the odometer reads "-------", that is seven dashes appear.

2) b) With OUT power, the odometer is blank

3) a) When the generator IS running, the hour meter displays seven dashes.

3) b) When the generator is NOT running, the genny hour meter is blank.

PO said he had someone trouble shoot the speedometer issue. They thought the problem was in the dashboard instrument cluster. But they were not sure. PO elected not to pursue the matter any further.

I do wonder about the diagnosis. If the dashboard instrument cluster is at fault, why would the genny hour meter be affected? I question this because the speedometer/odometer and the hour meter are in two different instrument clusters, each having its own electrical connector.



What I have done so far:


Since I had the dash cover off to replace the ignition switch, I was able to easily disconnect the plug into the cluster that houses the speedometer. I used an electronic cleaner called DeoxIT. (I learned about this product on irv2 a while ago. I have used it before to solve a recurring connector issue with my S&B dryer that ordinary electronic cleaner spray could not.)

Result of the cleaning was no difference. I also tried the cleaner on the connector for the smaller instrument cluster housing the genny hour meter. No difference there either.

I have two binders of manuals. However, I do not remember seeing any wiring diagrams that might include these meters.

HELP!

+ Where would you start the trouble-shooting process?
+ Does anyone have a wiring diagram from a similar chassis?
+ What ideas do you have given the symptoms I have listed thus far?
+ Where is the information (total miles and total hours) stored?

I know that the engine is mechanical. So connecting something like Silverleaf to the engine is not going to happen. But, given that the odometer and hour meter are digital (not mechanical), I wonder where the info is stored.


FWIW: I cannot get under the coach at this time. It is parked on sandy soil. The clearance under the coach is only a few inches. (The air leaks out rather quickly, but that is another issue for another day!) I can get to the top of the engine (I have moved the mattress out of the way.)
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:55 AM   #30
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Maybe want to take a look at the fuel filler doors as well, they use gas shocks to hold them up...I recently replaced mine and asked myself why I didn't do it a long time ago. No more fighting with the cover while fueling.


If you turn on headlight will odometer come on? Mine also has this issue, but comes on with headlights.

As far a gen-set hours, mine has a analog type.

Can you check for any power going to the hour meter
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Old 03-13-2018, 12:27 PM   #31
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Your Gauge Cluster was made by ISSPRO Gauge MFG - There's an older Guy there- John rings a bell- look them and give Him a call- He helped me out a few times over the years.
I'll look through my files for a Schematic that shows you gauges.
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Old 03-13-2018, 01:05 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mackwrench View Post
Maybe want to take a look at the fuel filler doors as well, they use gas shocks to hold them up...I recently replaced mine and asked myself why I didn't do it a long time ago. No more fighting with the cover while fueling.
Here are the filler doors on my 1991 Eagle. No visible gas shocks.

RIGHT (Passenger Side)


LEFT (Driver Side)



Quote:
Originally Posted by mackwrench View Post
If you turn on headlight will odometer come on? Mine also has this issue, but comes on with headlights.

As far a gen-set hours, mine has a analog type.

Can you check for any power going to the hour meter
Turning on the headlights only lights the background. No change in display of the odometer: still 7 dashes.

There is a multi-connector plug going to the hour meter. Since it displays dashes ONLY when the generator is running, I am guessing that it is getting power.


Is there some type of control module somewhere else in the coach that stores the mileage and hour info?
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Old 03-13-2018, 01:25 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHRA225 View Post
Your Gauge Cluster was made by ISSPRO Gauge MFG - There's an older Guy there- John rings a bell- look them and give Him a call- He helped me out a few times over the years.
I'll look through my files for a Schematic that shows you gauges.
ISSPRO.com did not seem to have any schematics on the support page of their website. (In fact, their support page had no information on anything.) So, I just sent them an email with all of the information I currently have and asked for their assistance. With so many different data points, I thought an email would be more helpful, along with a photo of the unit.

Now I wait for their response. If I don't hear from them in a day or so, I should probably try to locate John.

Meanwhile, if you do find a schematic I would be much appreciative.

Thanks!
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Old 03-13-2018, 01:41 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NHRA225 View Post
I'll look through my files for a Schematic that shows you gauges.
Chuck, While you are looking through your files, would you mind looking for a schematic of the air lines and air brakes, please?

The coach loses most of its air pressure within a few hours of sitting after shutdown. There obviously has to be a leak somewhere.

Thanks!
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Old 03-13-2018, 02:27 PM   #35
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Now I wait for their response.
Less than an hour later, I received a return email from ISSPRO. The person they said can assist me is "Don" in Technical Services Department. They gave me a number to call tomorrow morning when he will be in the office.

Very nice so far.
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Old 03-13-2018, 03:06 PM   #36
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Yep, my door opens upClick image for larger version

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Old 03-13-2018, 03:11 PM   #37
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Radiator Overflow Tubing - And Oily Dipstick???

First, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone for offering assistance and support.


Meanwhile, as other projects are in progress awaiting parts and info...

During my initial engine inspection I noticed that the coolant overflow tank was completely dry. I traced the tubing back to the radiator cap and found that the hose was completely cracked open at the bottom of the connection. The hardened tubing simply had given its all and surrendered to dry rot.



Trips to the local auto supply stores proved to be fruitless. No one had coolant hose of the correct size and/or length. So, back to e-bay... Hose arrived today. Here are the two connections.




Note the OILY DIPSTICK on the second photo.



OK, now I have a few questions.

1) Is there a special coolant that needs to be used with this engine? When I asked what the PO used, he said Prestone. He didn't know any more as he said his "mechanic took care of that." So, is this the same type of antifreeze that works in a gasoline engine, and is available at wally world?

2) What can I do to keep oil from coming out of the dipstick? The forward size of the coolant overflow was completely covered in oil and dirt. The chassis frame in the area was also filthy. I tried some Gunk engine cleaner and got a lot off. I probably need to do more later. Why is oil blowing up the dipstick tube? You may notice a small hose clamp near the end of the dipstick tube. There is a lot of oil and dirt. I am not sure what is going on there.



I wonder if the engine appreciates the TLC it is getting so far.
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Old 03-13-2018, 03:27 PM   #38
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What does the coolant look like that's in system now? These engines when built used a green standard coolant, like the Prestone you mentioned.

Many people exchange it for a long life type.

I see the coolant conditioner has 6/22/17 marked on it, that "filter" looking deal contains a "tablet" like a pill that is SCA. It dissolves over time.

This is NOT a coolant/water filter, it's there to maintain condition the coolant

The date on it is a good sign that at least someone made an effort to maintain coolant system.

You can, and should purchase a fleetguard SCA test kit, it has a dip stick you dip into coolant and it gives you the cond.

I may get flamed here, but if it was me, I'd check coolant freeze and boiling points, replace the spin on conditioner and rock on.

fwiw, mine still has the green stuff in it, however Its been drained and flushed a few times in it's life.
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Old 03-13-2018, 03:35 PM   #39
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What is the red thing at dipstick that looks like a short piece of hose? I would spray brake clean on the area and clean it up as best as possible. Run engine a trip and check it.

When eng is running is there any blow by puffing out of dipstick tube? Pull dipstick and run it a bit in driveway...

Also there's a piece of hose just besides oul filter on driver side of engine, this is where crankcase vents. Make sure hose is not restricted, or got a rag/plastic bottle or something blocking it.

Fleetguard make a crankcase ventilation system that can control blow by if not really excessive.
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Old 03-13-2018, 03:38 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwk View Post
Chuck, While you are looking through your files, would you mind looking for a schematic of the air lines and air brakes, please?

The coach loses most of its air pressure within a few hours of sitting after shutdown. There obviously has to be a leak somewhere.

Thanks!
I'm in Florida for another week or so - I have a Schematic book at home. I'll look when I get there.
By the way your Oil Dipstick should be the Locking/Sealed type.

I use Final Charge 50/50 and use a standard Coolant filter. WF2077
There should be no Oil on the top section of that dip stick--
Check the level- Check the Slobber tube and make sure it isn't clogged

Air Brakes: Air it up and spray every line connection with soapy water.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 0860-MM5.pdf (1.03 MB, 29 views)
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Old 03-13-2018, 05:14 PM   #41
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My above post was supposed to be DCA additive. Had a few other errors, but I was riding in truck on way home when I typed it, haha, the conditioner used on these engines is a filter as well and does catch sediment and the like... Cummins recommend service interval is 500 engine hours or once a year.

Here's a detailed Cummins read on coolant conditioner

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...o5MDW0KCd1Xaor


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Old 03-13-2018, 05:28 PM   #42
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Chuck's right, something is a miss about the dipstick, that piece of hose ain't right. perhaps there's a Cummins part number stamped into the dipstick...

On that subject, be careful about using the dipstick as a true means of engine oil level. Many RV dipstick seems to be marked incorrect.

Once you change oil, add the specific amount for that engine and then check dipstick. That's your correct oil level.

You'd be well to do to go to Cummins quickserve, using your engine S/N create a free account. Lots of parts and service information. Plus the Onan gen-set info is there.

Link:.
https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html

There's also a mobile app for quickserve if that's your choice
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