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Old 03-13-2018, 06:02 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by mackwrench View Post
Chuck's right, something is a miss about the dipstick, that piece of hose ain't right. perhaps there's a Cummins part number stamped into the dipstick...

On that subject, be careful about using the dipstick as a true means of engine oil level. Many RV dipstick seems to be marked incorrect.

Once you change oil, add the specific amount for that engine and then check dipstick. That's your correct oil level.

You'd be well to do to go to Cummins quickserve, using your engine S/N create a free account. Lots of parts and service information. Plus the Onan gen-set info is there.



Link:.
https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html

There's also a mobile app for quickserve if that's your choice

Great Advice !! My original Cummins book call's for 22 qts but I Always use 20 qts and it won't puke oil.
Funny though If I flip the dip stick it shows overfull . Always puzzling to me .
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Old 03-14-2018, 12:10 PM   #44
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Speedometer Repair QUESTION

I talked with Don at ISSPRO this afternoon. He remembers the gauges that they provided to Fleetwood in my coach's time period. There were two different models. With a quick description over the phone, he determined which model The Eagle has. AND, they can repair it.

Unfortunately, the actual mileage WILL BE LOST. He said I can give him an estimate, or they can set it to zero. Don said there was a small battery to keep the mileage, but that probably is not working after this many years.

I may want to talk to Florida DMV about this??? The PO had a guesstimate of the current mileage. The actual mileage was on the title when PO purchased it 7 years ago. Not sure how to handle this. I am leaning toward ZERO, but wonder if that will raise more issues. Maybe I should just use the guesstimate and avoid any questions by DMV and any future sellers???


Also, the genny hour meter is non-functional. Don knew about this problem as well. He can repair that also. And, the hour meter will be set to whatever I want. Probably zero as DMV should not care.

Cost for repair and checking of large instrument cluster (with speedometer and other gauges) is estimated at 350-450.

Cost for repair and checking of small instrument cluster (with hour meter and some other gauges) is estimated at 350-400.

The cost will include updated speedometer to a newer type. Not sure what it will look like, but it will work!

I could add an external hour meter (probably for less $), but I like things that are original equipment.


QUESTION: Do I need to bleed all of the air out of the system before removing the gauge air lines?

The small instrument cluster with the hour meter also has two air lines feeding the air gauge for the brakes. If so, then I am also guessing that I cannot start the coach again until the repaired cluster is reconnected.
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Old 03-14-2018, 02:33 PM   #45
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QUESTION: Do I need to bleed all of the air out of the system before removing the gauge air lines?


Pass side foreword door= inside you'll find the Generator Battery and 2 Air Tanks- Turn the Petcocks and Drain Air- Look for any liquids coming out - like oil or water.
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Old 03-14-2018, 03:24 PM   #46
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QUESTION: Do I need to bleed all of the air out of the system before removing the gauge air lines?

Pass side foreword door= inside you'll find the Generator Battery and 2 Air Tanks- Turn the Petcocks and Drain Air- Look for any liquids coming out - like oil or water.
Thanks. There are two cam locks on that door.

PO left me with 3 key rings. During walk-through I do not remember him opening that compartment. None of the keys fit. I also just searched every compartment I could find inside the coach for more keys: found none.

It is the same key blank that fits the fuel filler doors, but that key will not work.

It is also the same key blank as a CH751 key, but that key does not work either.

I guess my quickest option is to drill out the cylinders, then replace the cam locks. That would be less expensive than a lock smith making a house call. Since that compartment does contain safety equipment (air lines), maybe I should NOT replace them with 751's? Rather, I should look for a different key? (Doesn't most of the RV world have 751 keys?)
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Old 03-14-2018, 04:11 PM   #47
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Compartment Locks

Well, cancel the distress call on the frozen locks.

I sprayed some lock lubricant into the keyway. About 5 minutes later I tried it again and it grudgingly turned and opened. There are two locks and I got the bottom one to also open after spraying.

For now I am only using the bottom lock as it seems to want to behave. The top lock is frozen in the unlocked position. Since I will not be driving it anywhere for a while, a flapping door is not an issue.

I need to replace a lot of locks all around. Rust and corrosion is present. 27 years of it! Actually, the mfr. date is 4/91. Maybe I should have a party for it?

Anyone have any thoughts about using the round locks and keys? I believe they are called "ace lock keys."


Meanwhile, it is getting late and I will work on draining the air tomorrow. BTW, I found where the air horns are located! Well, at least I found them by looking and not blowing anyone's ear drums out.

Thanks, Chuck.
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Old 03-14-2018, 04:14 PM   #48
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My guess is it hasn't been opened for a while- use spray lube in the locks - I have 1 key that opens Fuel Door- Genny Radiator Fan Door- Genny Battery compartment door-
Keys-- Look above the entrance door - there is another shelf up there.
Craw under there and open the petcocks with plyers.
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Old 03-14-2018, 05:52 PM   #49
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I'm lucky in that the original person that purchased my Motor home had automatic drains installed on the air tanks. If you do not have automatic drains you should drain the air tanks daily.

Usually there is a lanyard from the side of the vehicle to the drain on each of the tanks and you should be able to pull on the lanyard to to drain the tanks without having to crawl under the motor home to drain the tanks.

Chuck should be able to tell you the location (or where the location) should be for the lanyard.

I have a total of four tanks, however one of the tanks contains two separate compartments, so I have three physical tanks, but four compartments that are drained.

When I first tried to learn how to drain the tanks on my Motor Home the automatic drains really confused a bunch of people.

The chassis manufacture stated they did not install them, and fleetwood said they did not install them, and when I sent pictures no one knew what they were.

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Old 03-14-2018, 06:05 PM   #50
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Best I remember it will not matter to Florida DMV what the actual mileage is, after 26k GVW it's Florida excempt.

But if you're ever going to resell it, I'd guess a number....
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Old 03-14-2018, 06:07 PM   #51
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I don't have lanyards on my tanks as I don't drain them but a few times a year - Mine has 2 Tanks only .. 1 for the Brakes and 1 for the Air Springs.
Keep Spraying those locks -- Use PB blaster -- they will loosen up !
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Old 03-14-2018, 06:39 PM   #52
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I don't have lanyards on my tanks as I don't drain them but a few times a year - Mine has 2 Tanks only .. 1 for the Brakes and 1 for the Air Springs.
!
The 121 air brake system, used since the 60s or 70s, is a dual system.

One tank supplies the front brakes and one supplies the rear.

The treddle valve is like a dual master cylinder, in that it is a split system. Each of the two sections control an axles brakes.

If you don't have a wet/supply tank, ( a rare occorance ), then automatic moisture ejector are required on the primary and secondary service tanks.

I think, if you look close, you will find that one of your tanks is actually two tanks in one. Look for a weld seam all the way around the tank, 1/3 along the length of it.

Here is a link to the 121 system.

https://www.federalregister.gov/docu...-brake-systems
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Old 03-14-2018, 06:43 PM   #53
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When I drove trucks, it was a requirement to drain the tanks daily. Might be different for RVs, but I believe the principles are the same. I have read else where that these motor homes did come equipped with lanyards.

mackwrench should be able to comment on this with his background.

Chuck I'm surprised you are not draining after each day of driving.

My automatic drains drain a second or two each time the compressor cycles.

In NY when the mileage on a speedometer is change a sticker is put in the door jam stating what the mileage was before the change.

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Old 03-14-2018, 07:11 PM   #54
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My guess is it hasn't been opened for a while- use spray lube in the locks - I have 1 key that opens Fuel Door- Genny Radiator Fan Door- Genny Battery compartment door-
Evidently we were typing at the same time. The door is now open. I have the same single key that opens those same doors. I should probably get a spare!

I will look for the PB Blaster. I think wally world and amazon both have it.
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Old 03-14-2018, 07:17 PM   #55
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FDOT regs don't seem to apply the motorcoach....I know of no requirement that air tanks to be drained daily.

That said, one should make bleeding some air off using either a drain valve, or a spring type tether drain, a regular part of their walk around inspection.

My coach had manual drains from factory.
I replaced them with Bendix DV-2 automatic drains.....like Forrest Gump, one less thing to worry about.

I tried to post a pic of them, but you'll need to Google it...sorry.

I'm not sure if the OP has a air dryer, but if so, it should be on his list of things to service.

A system that's used a lot, that has a good working air dryer will not get that much condensation.

Twinboat is correct, the system has 2 tanks, one tank has 2 "Compartments"
The main supply from air dryer goes into wet tank, a one-way valve supplies the primary and secondary tanks.

This system looks complex, but is very simple.
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Old 03-14-2018, 07:28 PM   #56
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Here's a random DV-2 automatic drain valve. About 40/50 bucks. I salvaged mine from a wrecked truck. They can also be had with a heater, one would need to run a ignition hot wire to it.
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