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Old 07-29-2017, 08:40 PM   #1499
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That's clearly a more focused beam pattern.

Photos probably don't tell the whole story, are you happy with them? Bright enough?
I do not know yet, I will have to do some night driving. Certainly better than what I had.
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Old 08-08-2017, 03:52 PM   #1500
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Ok talked to Lippert (owner of Kwikee Steps) Warranty is two years for an originally installed set of steps from an RV manufacture, but only one year if installed by a customer.

Talked with the Representative and talked him into sending me a goodwill motor and gear box assembly.

Three days to process the order and three days travel. We will have to leave without the replacement, cross our fingers that they work for two weeks.
So look what showed up at my door while I was away
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Old 08-08-2017, 03:58 PM   #1501
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Maybe you ought to put this one in with Dzus fasteners, you know just in case.
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Old 08-08-2017, 04:36 PM   #1502
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Maybe you ought to put this one in with Dzus fasteners, you know just in case.
The real question is do I put this one in and keep the old one as a spare or put this in the spare parts bin and wait for the one that is in to fail?

You know it will fail at the worst possible moment.

Guess I answered my own question.
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Old 08-08-2017, 04:57 PM   #1503
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The real question is do I put this one in and keep the old one as a spare or put this in the spare parts bin and wait for the one that is in to fail?

You know it will fail at the worst possible moment.

Guess I answered my own question.
Not necessarily. Now that you have a replacement on hand, the existing one probably won't fail.
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Old 08-08-2017, 10:44 PM   #1504
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Project up date and reviews

Follow up on two projects

ARP Control Module / Refrigerator upgrade number three

I'm not sure this has made any difference in cooling of the refrigerator, I do believe the two additional fans have helped in keeping the cabinet on top of the refrigerator cooler. I have been told that another benefit of the unit is it will allow you to operate the refrigerator off level for up to 6 hours. The way it does this is by monitoring the boiler temperature, when the boiler gets to hot it shuts off the refrigerator and allows the boiler to cool back off.

That being said I like the safety factor, but is it worth the money? I could have just added two more fans to cool the upper cabinet.

Having read about refrigerator fires I guess I sleep easier at night knowing that the boiler temperature is being monitored. I also start the refrigerator 24 hours before a trip and it runs unattended in the storage lot.

For me it is worth the money, I have a lot of time and energy invested in this motor home.

Fog Lights Second Attempt 2017 07 27

I still have not traveled enough at night to know just how good or bad these lights are.

I can say that adjusting the aim of the main headlights really helped, and the fog lights do make a difference.

Once I drive some at night I will update my comments.

As an aside

I am most likely jinking myself but I have made three different trips so far this season (8.000 MILES) AND HAD NO REAL PROBLEMS!

This is truly a first for me. The jacks down alarm has gone off in heavy rain and I will have to look into this.

Safe travels Next trip is in September to Michigan .
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Old 09-04-2017, 04:02 PM   #1505
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I read all 108 pages, great info, thanks for taking the time to do what you do
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Old 09-04-2017, 05:32 PM   #1506
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I read all 108 pages, great info, thanks for taking the time to do what you do
Thanks
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Old 09-24-2017, 12:03 PM   #1507
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Recently I had an axle fail right before we were to leave for the Blue Suede Cruise at Summit Motorsports Park back in July.

We did an axle swap from the red trailer to the white trailer.

We have just recently found replacement axles to put back under the red trailer.

This is that story and the saga can be viewed on my web site on the link below

https://www.lever-family-racing.com/...ory-2017-08-16

or below

So, this is a long story, so get yourself a refreshment, your reading glasses, and sit back for a long boring story.

There is really four chapters to this story
1) Tire failure
2) Noticing a problem with an axle on the trailer holding the dragster right before the third NDRL race of the season at Gateway Motorsports Park (a two day trip there and another two day trip back).
3) Identifying and purchasing the correct Torflex Dexter axle
4) Installing the new axles on the Red Trailer
  • Tire failure. This starts back one year ago when we were returning from the race at Bowling Green and we had three Carlise trailer tries fail on the return trip home. We purchased five new SuperCargo E Load range tires from Camping world in Hamburg NY, at a price of $977.13. On the way from the NDRL race at Memphis to the NHRA HRR in Bowling Green, we had one of those tires (less than a year old) come apart while on the highway. While in Bowling Green, we tried to find someone to warranty the tire. No one would. There is a Camping World there and they told me I had to return the tire to the Camping World in Hamburg NY (500 miles away). Before leaving Bowling green, I purchased 5 new Carlise tires, as I did not trust the remaining Super Cargo tires (The Carlise tires are of a new design which is supposed to eliminate the past problems). This happened back on June 17. It is now September 22 and we are still fighting with Sutong over the warranty on these tires. We have the original receipt, the trailer only requires D load range tires, the trailer is not overloaded (1440 front engine dragster is in the trailer), the trailer tires have tire sensors that sense both temperature and pressure.




This tire was on the right rear position of the trailer. Because of the sensitivity to tires, I noticed the tire in the right front position would lean in when a disproportionate amount of weight was put on that tire.
Special note should be taken: at this point, the tire failure was not on this axle.

This could be repeated easily by lowering the trailer tongue jack, which causes the weight of the trailer to be transferred from an even distribution on both axles to more weight being put on the front axle. When the trailer was setting on level ground, the tires were all straight up and down. Now this should not be possible with a Dexter Torflex axle because of its construction.

A Dexter Torflex axle has no springs or shackles. It has a hardened metal square bar inserted inside a hole in a square tube with four rubber strips in each corner. This hardened metal bar is inserted two feet into the square tube. Welded to the end of the hardened square bar is an idler arm and welded to that is the spindle.





None of the other tires would do this, the wheel bearings were tight. The only explanation I could come up with was that either the hardened metal bar or the spindle had a crack in it allowing them to flex when weight was applied.

This brings us to chapter two: Noticing a problem with an axle on the trailer holding the dragster right before the third NDRL race of the season at Summit Motorsports Park, in Norwalk Ohio.

I was on the verge of not going to this race because of the fear of the axle failing on the trip.

I have a second trailer that was purchased to haul the Jeep around. It is a 24 foot trailer vs the 28 foot trailer that the dragster is in. I put a message out that I was going to remove the cabinet in the front of the 24 foot trailer to get the dragster to fit, and a friend of mine suggested swapping the axles out from under the Jeep trailer (both trailers had 5,200 pound axles under them (heretofore called the “red trailer”)) and putting them under the trailer holding the dragster (heretofore known as the “white trailer”).

Some careful measurements were taken and although there were several different measurements (which we did not find until the axles were removed), it was thought they would be a direct fit. As these axles are held in by four bolts per axle this was thought to be a simpler solution.
John Heywood’s saying “Many hands make light work” is certainly true. Two really good friends helped with this task: Steven Walczak and Bill Gagnier

The first step was to remove the axles from the white trailer. This turned out to be extremely difficult. The bolts were rusted. We did not have a blue tipped wrench available. We had to put a breaker bar on one side and another on the other side, with a floor jack handle slide down over the handle of the breaker bar and use a 3 ton jack to unscrew each bolt (these were fine threaded bolts with an inch of thread and we could only turn the bolt about a quarter turn each time) This literally took hours. I should also mention this was a really hot day.



The electric brakes on the white trailer were wired in such a way that the wires to the brakes had to be cut.

What a stupid way to run the wires, right through the mounting flange.



The two axles were removed from the white trailer and the first axle was removed from the red trailer.



This is when we noticed that there were actually differences,
  • The red trailer axles were ½ inch wider.
  • The red trailer had (what we learned later) were “high profile pereches”, the white trailer had “Low Profile Pereches”.
  • The idler arm start angle on the red trailer axles was 0 degrees and the white trailer had 10 degree raise.
The result was the white trailer now sits about two inches higher than it did before, which was fine with me. I always had problems with rear clearance. After the trip to Bowling Green, I decided I would order identical axles as the trailer rode better and the ride height was much better.

One thing to remember is all this information presented here is information that I have learned after the fact.




So the red trailer axles were stuck under the white trailer and the tires were bolted on.






After some minor clean up, the trailer was ready for the trip to Norwalk.





Chapter 3: Identifying and purchasing the correct Torflex Dexter axle. This turned out much more difficult than it really had to be. Phone support for Dexter axles really are only interested in one thing, the serial number on the axle. Finding that serial number was not easy. I am going to supply as much of the dimensions requested on the Dexter order form as I can.

These were two crazy people that were out in the sun trying to find that serial number and getting the dimensions to fill in the Dexter order form.





This is the order form



The very first question on the form, I did not know how to answer. The axle looks straight across, but it is not. There is a bend in the center which gives some caster to the axles. All four of the axles have this bend.

This may be the answer to the question Cambered?






Hub Face is another question I was not sure how to answer, I hope the pictures below suffice. The lugs are ½ by 20



Bracket Dimension (I think this is a dumb measurement as it does not interface with anything, that part of the bracket is not straight up and down, so it is kind of a guess as to what it should be) Outside of the bracket measurement as depicted in the diagram is 72 ¾ inches. If you look carefully in the picture below you can see the bottom outside edge is slightly outboard from the top of the bracket, the bottom edge is where the measurement was taken.

They did not ask mounting surface to mounting surface which is a tight 67 5/8 inches

Another question not asked but depicted in the diagram below is the Hub Face Dimension which is 93 5/8 to 93 13/16 (93 and 5/8 is preferred)





Bearing Lubrication Easy Lube

Start Angle. Time for a small rant. This order form wants the start angle. What they do not tell you is used axles (ones that have been under a trailer) take a 10 degree set.

What you see here is one degree finder setting on the frame and the second sitting on the idler arm on the axle.

Seeing this you would think that the idler arm has a 10 degree start angle, but that is incorrect because the axle has already taken a 10 degree set. If it was ordered this way you would get the wrong axle (they do not give refunds for any reason).

This axle actually has a 0 degree start angle. I was lucky to discover this before placing my order.



Mounting Brackets? 1” high



Bracket Orientation Standard



I decided to give one last attempt at finding the serial number. Anne and I dragged one of the old axles out from under the red trailer (the red trailer axles are now under the white trailer) and take a wire wheel to the whole back side of the axle.









I did the same thing to the axles under the white trailer as those are the ones we want to duplicate. That way both trailers have the same axles and the ride height is what I was looking for. Inscribed on the axle on the left side is DD 5200 Lbs and just past the center on the curb side is the serial number 121876206. This saved a lot of work and brought to light the error on the start angle.



I did a lot of calling around for prices. The cheapest price I found was from Red Neck Trailer sales at $499.99 and the most expensive I found was for $999.99. I was very lucky and found a friend that as a relative that could get the axles for less than half the price of the cheapest price I found. To be clear, I got two brand new axles for less than the price of the cheapest retail quoted price.

Chapter Four Steven and I made a run to pick them up



I kind of slid by the fact that the red trailer was left up in the air on jack stands with no axles (they are now under the white trailer) I bought the new axles without backing plates, brakes or drums.

So… the old axles from the white trailer had to be pulled out from under their resting place under the red trailer and the drums and backing plates removed (they had just been put on two years ago).





The new axles were reinstalled under the red trailer. The bolts went in easy as someone had purchased all new bolts.





The brakes and backing plates that had been removed from the old axles were installed on the new axles (again someone had provided new hardware, I wonder who that Santa was).






I now have one perfectly good Dexter 5200 pound Torflex azle beam for sale. I even have a set of backing plates and drums to go with it. The second Dexter axle is questionable but you are welcome to it.



Time to install the wiring so the electric brakes work.



The finishing touch to this project, installing the wheels and tires.



And this project is complete. Now the red trailer is back in action once again after donating it’s axles to a good cause. I believe that operation on the trailer caused it no pain.

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Old 09-25-2017, 05:56 PM   #1508
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Glenn !
All I can say is Wow !
My Trailer has over 250,000 miles and have never had an issue with my Dexter 5200 lb axles.- I Always use G rated -16 in Tires- Never a blowout. Maybe I'm Lucky !- Change Em every 2 Yrs .
Been through many sets of brakes - though ! and 2 sets of Drums since 2001 when I bought the trailer new.- Grease the Bearings 3 Times A Year during race season.
Maybe you had a bad axle from the factory ?
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Old 09-25-2017, 06:33 PM   #1509
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Glenn !
All I can say is Wow !
My Trailer has over 250,000 miles and have never had an issue with my Dexter 5200 lb axles.- I Always use G rated -16 in Tires- Never a blowout. Maybe I'm Lucky !- Change Em every 2 Yrs .
Been through many sets of brakes - though ! and 2 sets of Drums since 2001 when I bought the trailer new.- Grease the Bearings 3 Times A Year during race season.
Maybe you had a bad axle from the factory ?
The trailer is a 2006, I have put many many miles on it, I have no idea what went wrong. I am on my second set of drums and you saw the brake replacement here.

Just finished putting the LED lights that were on the front of the bus on the back of the trailer. They will now function as both loading lights (switch from inside the trailer) and backup lights (when they see the trigger signal from the tow vehicle). Will post that project later, going in for dental surgery tomorrow.
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Old 09-26-2017, 06:57 AM   #1510
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Originally Posted by NHRA225 View Post
Glenn !
All I can say is Wow !
My Trailer has over 250,000 miles and have never had an issue with my Dexter 5200 lb axles.- I Always use G rated -16 in Tires- Never a blowout. Maybe I'm Lucky !- Change Em every 2 Yrs .
Been through many sets of brakes - though ! and 2 sets of Drums since 2001 when I bought the trailer new.- Grease the Bearings 3 Times A Year during race season.
Maybe you had a bad axle from the factory ?
Similar situation here Chuck, only less total miles that you. My first trailer, a 1991 24' Wells Cargo, I had put well over 100k miles in the 16 years I had that trailer. It had 5200 lb. Dexter axles and I only replaced the tires twice on that trailer. Granted I didn't carry much weight in that trailer, usually around 8k total with trailer and cargo. I did however have to replace one of the axles upon first purchasing the trailer due to the accident that put it out of commission had bent one of the axles as well as some other damage that I had to repair.

My second trailer was a 2008 26' Haulmark Edge with 7k pound Dexter axles and this one I had loaded to the gills every time out of the driveway. I routinely had it loaded to a total weight of well over 12k pounds but I barely towed that trailer about 50k miles and one set of tires before I sold it. Never a problem with my Dexter axles. Glenn must have gotten the lemon axle.

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Old 09-26-2017, 10:24 PM   #1511
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Rear ramp loading lights that also function as backup lights

Well after the failure of the LED light project on the front of the motor home (See this link Fog Light LED Replacement-2017-06-01 ), I had to come up with something to do with these lights.

The back of the trailer has always been dark when loading the dragster at night and you can always use more light when backing up.

I did install two boat bow docking lights on each side of the trailer but they really are not adequate. They certainly help.

Just a note on them, they are meant for an angled bow and were designed to project light straight forward.

There are two LED arrays in the lights, one points straight out and the other angles out towards the rear of the trailer. They just could be brighter.




So time to give them some help.

What I want to accomplish is to have these new LED lights serve two functions: one, have them come on when the tow vehicle is put into reverse and two, be able to turn them on independent of the tow vehicle to use as loading lights.

Now I am sure there is a solid state circuit that I could build to accomplish the isolation of these two electrical functions but I still live in the age of relays.

The relays I have supply contacts for both triggered and untriggered conditions. The first step is to understand the contacts on the bottom of the relays. There are numbers beside the spade connectors on the bottom of the relays and these numbers transfer to most relays.

With a little testing and a battery to trigger the coil in the relay, I was able to map out connectors.

I also looked it up on the internet, but nothing takes the place of empirical testing.







A little scribbling on a piece of paper gives me a diagram of what the circuit should look like to provide the two functions I want.



This is the wiring diagram for the trailer 7 pin connector. The center pin is the pin for reverse light



Ok, let’s figure out where and how to mount the lights on the blank canvas. It looks like another bracket fabrication is in the works.





Oh, what material should I use to make the brackets? I have so many scrapes of different types of metal that it is difficult to choose.



I chose the 3 inch square aluminum tube. I was able to get two brackets out of the tube with some cutting.

First I cut a four inch piece off of it.

(yes with a sawsall) I have found putting oil on the area to be cut keeps the teeth of the blade from clogging up.






Then made several cuts the length of it





With a little bit of heat, a large vise, a piece of heavy scrap metal and a large hammer, I was able to induce and persuade an angle into the bracket. Drilled a hole in it and test fitted it on the back of the trailer.

It still did not have enough of a down angle to light the ramp.

That is when I realized that I had just executed a classic case of over thinking the problem. The bracket on the back of the light will do what I need it to do. Just so you know, my mind set was set for fabrication because that was not the case when I fit them to the front of the motor home. In that case, I could not get them to angle down enough toward the road and had to make brackets, not only to get the lights to the right height in the holes in the valance, but to get them to the correct angle in relationship to the road.

Oh well ,I would have liked to be able to say I made those brackets.





On to finding the right location to mount the lights. Half way between the outer clearance light and the inner clearance lights sounds good to me. No sense in over thinking this as the beam projected from these lights is extremely broad. I would never, ever, over think anything, right?

Holes have been drilled, we are now officially beyond the point of no return.





This is what they will look like. I will add silicone to the two holes in the final assembly.





That was the easy part. I have two batteries in the trailer: one is the break-away safety brake battery and the second is a yellow top deep cycle battery that I use for the winch and trailer interior lights (they work when the trailer is not connected to the tow vehicle). Now they will power these loading/backup lights.

This means running a wire from the front of the trailer to the rear (crawling around under the trailer on a hot sticky day).

I also have to bring a reverse signal wire up into the wall for the reverse lights and a good ground. To look at the tools on the ground to do this, you would not think it was hard. This was helped by the fact that the trailer now sits two inches higher with the new axles, remember I’m a big guy.

So the trailer wiring is done, I have a good ground, a constant 12 volt supply wire and a reverse signal coming up through the bottom of the corner in the right rear of the trailer. I have the power feed wires going to the lights coming down from the top right corner off the trailer.





There is a trim piece that goes in the corner which will hide all the wires and where I can mount the switch and relays. There is also a trim piece that covers the door spring so all of the ugliness will go away.



The mess that always seems to develop on one of these projects was inside the garage today.

It never ceases to amaze me how many tools are needed to do the job right. I have two days of cleaning ahead for both the garage and basement work bench.



This weather station does not do the day justice, temperature at the airport was recorded at 92 degrees. The humidity was at 87%. If you look at the temperature graph in the lower left corner you can see it was way hotter than the current temperature displayed



Time to retire to the basement and work on the corner trim piece. First task is to make a square hole to accept the square switch which will manually turn on the loading lights. I do not have a square punch, so I drill holes in all four corners with a small drill and two larger holes in the center. Then out comes the file.





I mounted the two relays and used grommets to pass the wires through to the back side of the panel. With the relays on the front side of the panel, if one ever fails, nothing has to come apart for a temporary fix. I would have to remove the panel to remove the bolt and nut holding the relay to the panel.



I know a lot of people cringe at wiring. I actually like it. I used weather pack connectors on the wires coming from the floor and ceiling so the panel can be removed at will if necessary.







Well, what did I do wrong? Only one light comes one. It functions correctly, comes on with the switch, and also comes on when the reverse lights on the tow vehicle are on.



Upon investigation I found the reason the light that was not working was I had connected the polarity up backwards on that light. LED lights care where filament lights do not. I think these lights work great for loading lights and will be a great help when backing up. I now have one of the florescent lights inside the trailer acting up. Time for some more LED lights. No sense putting money into T12 ballasts.



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Old 09-26-2017, 10:42 PM   #1512
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Looks like they work great Glenn, that ought to help with backing up quite a bit too.
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