Community Forums

GlennLever · 07-09-2018, 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwelveVolt

I know I am not alone in spending time and money trying to stay on top of leaks in the air system. The push-on fittings are the culprit. I have had more than one mechanic say that as long as the compressor supply greatly exceeds the collective leaks, call it a win. My point is just that the electric motor is available 24/7. Any time anybody opens the door, they expect the steps to extend. Starting the engine to extend the steps is impractical, as is expecting an endless supply of air without an electric compressor.

On more than one occasion I have had to manually retract the step cover because we stopped for a rest and did not consider going outside until departure. Putting the step and step cover on their own compressor is an idea worth discussing.

Ok, I understand. For the cost of caring a spare, and the small amount of time to swap one out. Air might be a lot of work. Glenn

NHRA225 · 07-09-2018, 06:26 AM

Yep-- there downsides to using Air- my coach drops to 40lbs after sitting for a week or so. The air cylinder I have in mind only needs a maintained pressure of 40 lbs to keep the steps extended and a dedicated mini air compressor would certainly drive the cost up.

So ! You ask ?
I have also researched a 12 v dc Actuator that can be retro fitted into the existing system using all of the existing wiring - Controller and Door Magnet to operate the steps in place of the Window Motor just like I had planned for the Air Cylinder.
The issue with 12 volts is the Actuators are slow.- maybe 12 seconds to open and close the steps as Air would be 1 second.

GlennLever · 07-09-2018, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NHRA225

Yep-- there downsides to using Air- my coach drops to 40lbs after sitting for a week or so. The air cylinder I have in mind only needs a maintained pressure of 40 lbs to keep the steps extended and a dedicated mini air compressor would certainly drive the cost up.

So ! You ask ?
I have also researched a 12 v dc Actuator that can be retro fitted into the existing system using all of the existing wiring - Controller and Door Magnet to operate the steps in place of the Window Motor just like I had planned for the Air Cylinder.
The issue with 12 volts is the Actuators are slow.- maybe 12 seconds to open and close the steps as Air would be 1 second.

If I was going to change, the way to go is AIR. The 12 volt electrics are way to slow, you will be standing there waiting for it to extend.

The current system is absolutely flawed, my thought is I have other projects that need my attention, for now, I will carry a spare, and just swap it out as needed.

Glenn

idoxlr8 · 07-09-2018, 09:38 AM

Mine's certainly not that slow to extend? Maybe 5s at the most?

If you could rig the air cylinder using air to retract and the spring force to extend that seems to make sense. Steps would be out even if air is down, but when you're driving they would be retracted unless the solenoid is open.

The thing I don't like about the air cyl setup is that solenoid would be running to keep steps retracted (or extended). Need to use like a three way momentary valve of some sort so it's not live all the time.

NHRA225 · 07-09-2018, 10:07 AM

Feedback is great !
The system I have in mind on the Air setup is Identical to my Throttle stop on the Race Car-Remote solenoid manifold Air in and 2 Lines out to the cylinder- Activated by 12 volts except using a DPDT switch to active steps out or steps in- No voltage being used at the end of either cycle. with this system dual springs would be needed to hold the steps in during travel, but I don't see an issue with that at this point.
While in the out position Air pressure would maintain enough force to stabilize the step. (As Long As there is Air Pressure)

GlennLever · 07-09-2018, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idoxlr8

Mine's certainly not that slow to extend? Maybe 5s at the most?

If you could rig the air cylinder using air to retract and the spring force to extend that seems to make sense. Steps would be out even if air is down, but when you're driving they would be retracted unless the solenoid is open.

The thing I don't like about the air cyl setup is that solenoid would be running to keep steps retracted (or extended). Need to use like a three way momentary valve of some sort so it's not live all the time.

I was referring to the speed of an electric linear activator, not the current motor of air piston. Glenn

mackwrench · 07-09-2018, 02:01 PM

Related question, but have you guys replaced your single step unit with a 2 step? My wife suffers with bad back/neck and the single step assembly was a little tough on her.
When I bought coach I replaced entire step assembly with a 3 step model. Once air leaks down or suspension is dumped, the lower step is about a inch off ground.

....and in 3 years I've put 3 motors on it. The motor/controller connector is also an issue....

I'm curious what would hold a air operated step open once air was leaked off?

NHRA225 · 07-09-2018, 03:10 PM

I'm curious what would hold a air operated step open once air was leaked off?

>>This-- Called Step Saver !

GlennLever · 07-10-2018, 06:51 PM

Ready to try for Norwalk.

Motor Home has been doing a couple of weird things.

1) If I sit and let it idle the abs light stays on when I move. If I shut it off and start it back up and move the light goes off? It has done this several times now.

2) Tonight I fired it up and then it died, Cranked it a few seconds and then started back up? Never done that, always fired right up,VERY quickly.

Piker · 07-10-2018, 09:48 PM

Gosh Glenn... Ive said this before, but that is just really a nice looking rig... love the pics.

I don’t know much about your abs... but was thinking maybe the stalling issue might be fuel related? Filter... moisture... bad fuel... etc? It sounds obvious, but did you try draining the water separator?

Cheers

guardrail53 · 07-10-2018, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlennLever

Ready to try for Norwalk.

Motor Home has been doing a couple of weird things.

1) If I sit and let it idle the abs light stays on when I move. If I shut it off and start it back up and move the light goes off? It has done this several times now.

2) Tonight I fired it up and then it died, Cranked it a few seconds and then started back up? Never done that, always fired right up,VERY quickly.

#1, sorry, got nothing!
#2, Sometimes after changing the fuel filters, you will get a little air in the system, and it takes a little while for it to work it's way out! If it still starts hard after you drive it for awhile, replace the fuel filter, You can get a bad FF, and if when you take it off, check the level of the fuel in the filter, if it is down a inch or two, it is draining back to the tank, letting air back in to the system. Used to happen to me in the semi from time to time! Not sure why some filters do that, but make sure you have a couple spares with you!
Rail!

NHRA225 · 07-11-2018, 04:57 AM

Keep an eye on your Fuel Shutoff Solenoid, if it fails you can wire tie it in the open position and run all day.
Have a safe trip !

GlennLever · 07-11-2018, 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Piker

Gosh Glenn... Ive said this before, but that is just really a nice looking rig... love the pics.

I don’t know much about your abs... but was thinking maybe the stalling issue might be fuel related? Filter... moisture... bad fuel... etc? It sounds obvious, but did you try draining the water separator?

Cheers

All the filters were replaced before winterizing, would think this would have shown up before. I did just fuel the coach, fuel the truck at the same time and pump, at a station I use all the time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by guardrail53

#1, sorry, got nothing!
#2, Sometimes after changing the fuel filters, you will get a little air in the system, and it takes a little while for it to work it's way out! If it still starts hard after you drive it for awhile, replace the fuel filter, You can get a bad FF, and if when you take it off, check the level of the fuel in the filter, if it is down a inch or two, it is draining back to the tank, letting air back in to the system. Used to happen to me in the semi from time to time! Not sure why some filters do that, but make sure you have a couple spares with you!
Rail!

Drain back would fit the symptom, I have two changes of new filters on board.

Quote:

Originally Posted by NHRA225

Keep an eye on your Fuel Shutoff Solenoid, if it fails you can wire tie it in the open position and run all day.
Have a safe trip !

Great minds think alike this was my first thought, not that I have many.

Travel Truck · 07-11-2018, 09:32 AM

Glen your stalling problem brings back memorys!!! I had an issue as you describe. I have a solenoid tucked up against the floor behind the batt/switch,it carries very small loads.This solenoid tends to carbon up in time and loses contact,turn the key off/on it will start and run all day! That was an issue I had,took for ever to isolate.I now carry a spare now and have had no issues, for what its worth,TKS