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Old 09-11-2015, 07:26 PM   #715
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That is a meet-up I would like to see. How far did you say that was from Texas?

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Old 09-11-2015, 07:36 PM   #716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronspradley View Post
That is a meet-up I would like to see. How far did you say that was from Texas?

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Old 09-11-2015, 08:08 PM   #717
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Great troubleshooting Glenn. You've sold me on those weather pack connectors. On engine temp, I've got the same problem - hardly ever see it above 175 with my continuously running fan robbing precious hp all the time. Been that way since the beginning.

Makes me wonder if an in line mechanical thermostat is installed on these cooling systems. If it was, you'd think the running temp would be higher than 175.

Looking at the pic of your air inlet temp sensor it looks like there is no insulation on the left side, but there is square tubing at the base. Is this correct? If so, it's totally different than mine.
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Old 09-11-2015, 10:40 PM   #718
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Great troubleshooting Glenn. You've sold me on those weather pack connectors. On engine temp, I've got the same problem - hardly ever see it above 175 with my continuously running fan robbing precious hp all the time. Been that way since the beginning.

Makes me wonder if an in line mechanical thermostat is installed on these cooling systems. If it was, you'd think the running temp would be higher than 175.

Looking at the pic of your air inlet temp sensor it looks like there is no insulation on the left side, but there is square tubing at the base. Is this correct? If so, it's totally different than mine.
The sides of the engine compartment are insulated, I do want to replace it all including the lid with the reflective insulation.

If you look dead center of the picture below, just to the right of the base of the lamp there is a set, they have green handles

This is the best picture I could find to show the sides.

In order to use the weather pack connectors you do need a set of crimps. I will take some pictures tomorrow.
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Old 09-11-2015, 11:04 PM   #719
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You could use some cardboard to block the rad and bring the temp up that way.


2001 American Eagle 40 US 8.9 ISL, towing 1999 Cherokee or 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 with Polaris RZR in the back.
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Old 09-12-2015, 07:07 AM   #720
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You could use some cardboard to block the rad and bring the temp up that way.


2001 American Eagle 40 US 8.9 ISL, towing 1999 Cherokee or 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 with Polaris RZR in the back.
I may try that before we leave, but it is pouring rain today.
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Old 09-12-2015, 06:33 PM   #721
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Weather Pack Connectors

Quote:
Originally Posted by stkt View Post
You've sold me on those weather pack connectors.

I have mentioned several times in several of my posts that I really like Weather Pack Connectors, so I thought I would show you what they are.

I did not buy an assortment, but went to a local fastener store and picked what I wanted.



But assortments are available, here is one sold by Jegs.

I am also showing four tools, but you really only need the crimper and the yellow handle barrle tool which I will explain later.

The crimp tool is available in a lot of different places, here is one.

This crimp tool has interchangeable jaws so you can do many different style crimps, here

and finally the three piece tool kit, you really only need the yellow handled barrel tool.

This is what you start with, a connector, and they come one, two, three, four, five, and six positions in on connector.

A crimp terminal, they come male and female and in different weights to handle different gauge wire, although I have used the light gauge for up to 12 gauge wire.

A seal and they come in different sizes to handle different gauge wire, you can use the small ones on large wire as they are flexible, they are just harder to get on the wire.

And finally the wire you want to connect.



You set it all together, I use my fingers to squeeze the tangs to hold the seal in place which holds the wire in the correct place. Makes easier to get the setup into the crimper.



Set the whole setup into the jaws of the crimper.



and in one operation the tool crimps the wire and the seal in place.



You remove the terminal from the crimper tool and you are now ready to insert it into the connector.



It just pushes into the connector, there are a set of reverse tangs on the terminal that locks it into the connector.



You now have a weather tight connection. You fold over the top and the connector is ready to go.





Now you say oh darn I put it in the wrong position!

The first thing you do is use the green handled tool, or a small screw driver to release the clips holding the end folded down on the connector and flip it back up.

This is when you need the yellow handled barrel tool.



This tool slides into the connector over the top of the terminal compressing the reverse tangs that have the terminal locked into the connector.



While the yellow handled tool is slid into the connector with the reverse tangs compressed you can now pull the terminal back out of the connector.



and slid it back into the connector in any position you would like.

The positions are labeled a, b, c, d, e etc. on both the male and female connectors, and are usually marked on circuit diagrams.



Just my two cents.
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Old 09-13-2015, 07:19 PM   #722
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New Kwikee step install

So I would have thought that today's project would have been an easy one. Install the new set of Kwikee steps. The old steps are already out, all I should have to do is bolt the new ones up and plug in the harness, Ha Ha Ha...



Let's get the new steps unpacked.



The first thing I notice is the plug is different on the new steps.

Having learned from past projects, lets test the operation. The manual explains the test procedures. Connect the red lead to positive and the green lead to negative and the steps should extend, nope, the light came on momentarily and then nothing.

Disconnected everything disconnected the motor leads and put a test light across the leads and tried again. The test light lite up, motor is getting power.

Pulled the pin connecting the motor to the steps and found the steps bound up. After a great deal of effort I was able to get the steps opened.

I found one of the rivets holding the steps together was not driven all the way in and was interfering with the linkage for the second step.

I wedged a large screw driver in between the rivet and the linage and gained enough room to free up the steps.

I will have to place a call to PPL on Monday, in the mean time I need to have steps for the trip coming up this Wednesday. I have another trip in the plans, will be heading out west for a three to four week excursion.



So with the rivet and linkage bent and moved enough to have clearance, and having lubed all the pivot points, another test is in-store. Red to Positive, Green to negative to extend the steps, brown to negative (door switch) steps retract.

Success we are good to go with an operating set of steps.

Now to take care of the different connectors, the one on the right is the new one, the one on the left is the old one.



What to do, what to do, I hate cutting wires????

What do we have, we have the old step female connector which matches what is in the Motor Home, we have the Male test connector that came with the new steps, and we have the female connector on the new steps.



You might have heard me talk about Weather Pack Connectors???? That is what is on the end of the new steps!



I have a plan! Cut off the connector from the old steps,



Remove the test leads from the test plug for the new steps,



and put terminals on the ends of the cut off leads from the old steps. To do that I get to use my next favorite tool when working with wiring. A wire stripper. I used to be old school, used a razor blade to cut the insulation and then pull the insulation of the wire. This can work pretty good, but some times you cut a little to deep and cut a strand or two of wire. I used to think the strippers below were a gimmick, well let me tell you they work GREAT.



You can strip the exact amount of insulation you want off the end of a wire, and never cut a strand.



Nice clean cut and looks very professional. Install the new terminals and insert them into the test plug. Note the wires are crossed as we are going female to male, if you face the two together they line up correctly.

Also note another thing you can do with weather pack connectors is use it to join two wires together. In this case I have added a second brown lead for the interconnection of the ignition interlock. When the key is on it sends a ground signal to the controller telling the controller the door is closed and to retract the steps.



This picture may make it clearer, note that the red lead from the old plug goes to the red lead on the new steps, the same can be said for the yellow, the yellow lead from the old plug goes to the yellow lead on the new plug.



Off we go to the Motor Home. I have a good feeling about this, it should go well. Currently no steps on the Motor Home, we need to fill that hole.



Uh Oh, Huston we have a problem.

Open the door and the steps go in and the light goes off.



Close the door and the steps come out and the light comes on.



They operate in opposite of what they should.

I played with this for an hour, crawling under and getting out of under the motor home, playing with grounds and the ignition and the step switch on the console inside the door.

I'm not getting a ground from the reed switch on the door with the door closed.

I gave up for today, it was 59 degrees and raining when I gave up. I have one and a half days to get this working right (I also have a welding job I need to get done (promised to do it for a friend) I need to get fuel for the dragster, I have to cut the grass, and load the motor home).

I have no clue what the problem is. It tested correctly on the work bench. I have to follow up why there is no ground when the door is closed. Power is hooked up correctly (green is ground, Red is power).

I ran the steps in by opening the door, and then unplugged them and shut the door.



Tomorrow is another day.
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Old 09-13-2015, 07:44 PM   #723
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Glenn, this is from the Kwikie FAQ site:

1. I installed a new Kwikee Step and it is operating the opposite of how it should. Why is that?
It is probable there is an issue with the magnetic switch. Make sure the step is installed with a new black (normally open) switch.

Did the steps come with a new magnetic switch? Could it be that the existing magnetic switch you have is normally closed, making the steps operate in reverse?
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:21 PM   #724
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Quote:
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Glenn, this is from the Kwikie FAQ site:

1. I installed a new Kwikee Step and it is operating the opposite of how it should. Why is that?
It is probable there is an issue with the magnetic switch. Make sure the step is installed with a new black (normally open) switch.

Did the steps come with a new magnetic switch? Could it be that the existing magnetic switch you have is normally closed, making the steps operate in reverse?
It did not come with a new switch!

I will check this tomorrow. It would be great if this is the cause, an easy fix.

It certainly makes sense, why oh why would Kwikee change that?????

When they say normally open does that mean open when the magnet is near the reed switch?

They must get this question a lot as it is the number one question on the FAQ page.

This would also mean that I cannot use my ignition interlock as it was designed to work on the old system which expected the opposite.
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Old 09-14-2015, 09:42 PM   #725
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Kwikee steps installed and working correctly!

SUCCESS, The steps come out when the door is open



and go in when the door is closed! Here is the story.



It doesn't take much to make me happy, now does it?

This was accomplished with the information provided by stkt, see post above.

I went looking for a normally open door switch.

I tried Johnston RV NO
Called Churchville Camping World (rumor is this Camping World is closing) NO
Called PPL Parts, they told me they would have Customer Service call me, never got that call NO
Called Wilkins RV (rumor is they are buying the Camping World facility) NO
Went to Gold Crest Electronics and they had a larger switch that depending on how it was wired would either be normally open or normally closed YES



I wired it Normally Open according to the diagram on the switch and the steps functioned backwards, I then wired it as normally closed according to the diagram and the steps worked correctly. I do not know if the diagram on the switch is incorrect, I really do not care the steps work!



I will come back later and clean this install up (I'm pressed for time right now). An ironic thing happened after I left the Motor Home and went back home. I was cleaning up the mess in the basement which included the box for the steps, I slit the bottom end and was folding the box flat and what falls out of it, you guessed it the door switch they wanted me to use. It is much smaller than the one I have currently installed and will go back and put it in later.

Now to clean up the underside, so I can drive down the road.



I routed the new wires exactly where the old wires ran, used new clamps, new wire loom and driller screws in the holes that were created by the old screws (no new holes were created).



Because the switch is backwards (I think) from the original steps I cannot use the old ignition interlock, so I removed the plug conversion I did yesterday, again using the wonderful flexible Weather Pack Connectors and the new wiring is connected directly to the Motor Home wire harness.



Not sure why, but I will add the old plugs to my parts collection.



This is what is in the back ground and what was required to complete the job.



While under the Motor Home I looked at was required to fix the bent stainless that surrounds the steps, looks to be a straight forward job for another day, time to get ready for the trip.
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Old 09-16-2015, 02:46 PM   #726
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Here we go again, broke down

Well here we go again.

First day of travel went fine.

Three hours into the second day the Power Steering quit.

5 hours later, road service pulled the hydraulic pump.

The splines on the pump, and the splines in the PTO are stripped.

We are currently stranded in a Pilot.

Road service has left to look for parts, that failed, will try to remove the pump and PTO take them to a machine shop and have a key way machined.

Have not had one trip yet without a problem, this one is serious.
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Old 09-16-2015, 05:15 PM   #727
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Old 09-16-2015, 10:36 PM   #728
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