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Old 04-19-2016, 06:06 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santa_Claus View Post
ANYTHING would be better than the Panasonic speakers my coach came with. I remember pocket AM radios in the '70s sounding better. Definitely on my upgrades list.
WHAT?!?!? My panasonic speakers aren't the gold standard that others are judged by?

Bummer. Good thing I already had the speakers on the project list....
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:10 PM   #58
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Project: DirecTV

This one is a repost from January 2015. Placing it in this thread for consolidation purposes.

This is more of a testimonial on the great people and knowledge that is available on the forums. Case in point:

My bride and I decide to switch back to DirecTV from cable so we would have additional TV programing available on our planned trips. We knew it worked as the previous owner had DirecTV in it.

On Jan 2, 2015, the DirecTV tech installed the new boxes in our stick home. We went with the D12 standard def boxes. Asked him what I needed to do to make the box work with the KVH SF antenna on the Motor Home. Said just change it to 18 round dish in the satellite setup. Sounded easy enough but it wasn't because of my lack of knowledge on the box and dishes.

Highlights of my install:

First, when I connected the box to the KVH and the TV, it sat forever on the searching for satellite page. Thought I tried every button on the remote to make it go away but couldn't bypass and had to wait for it to time out. After a couple of rounds of this, I went on iRV2 and did a search to discover I just needed to hit the Exit button. Duh! Guess I didn't press that one afterall.

Second, I couldn't select the satellite dish that I wanted as it was greyed out. So once again I checked iRV2 and found out I needed to select the multiswitch option first. Ah, forward progress again.

Third, the 18" option didn't seem to work. Back to iRV2 and KVH to find the recommended dish config is the 3-LNB 18 x 20 which is option #2. More progress.

Fourth, after many select satellite switch button pushes, I finally got to the correct satellite. However, I was getting a tuner error. The page showed the satellites and the even/odd had a red X in one box and the other boxes had a green check mark. Messed with it for what seemed like hours. Couldn't get all green check marks so back once more to iRV2 and found this thread that was the exact problem I was having. Gee, all I had to do was click on continue and ignore the error message. Finally, success!

Hope this helps someone else that is just learning how to install your home DirecTV box in your motor home.
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:51 PM   #59
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Solar. It's on my project list. Would you share what type panels you installed, how many, how you secured them to the roof, did you run the feeder cable down the chimney, what model inverter you chose, and anything else that would a good thing to know. Inquiring minds want to know!
I use strong ties to screw the panels to the roof
A | Framing Angles and Plates | Angles and Plates | Straps and Ties | Wood Construction Connectors | Connectors | Simpson Strong-Tie Site
The panels came from Sun Electronics - Lowest Prices in Solar Panels, Kits, Inverters. I used four 190 watt 18V panels mostly due to what the local warehouse had in stock to avoid shipping. I wired two in series and ran the two sets in parallel for a 36 volt assembly. The wire goes down the reefer vent to the furnace area then to the bay with the inverter charger. I used a Tri Star MPPT controller connected to the inverter battery cable.
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Old 11-15-2016, 07:25 PM   #60
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Wow.

It's been 6 months since I did an update on my project thread. Too busy working on the Rev, traveling, and just life in general.

So, to get things going again, this update will be what I use for my GPS. This is a modified post I did in another thread.

Like many, I've used a couple of different GPS. None were perfect. Too bad one can't take the best of each one and cobble together a kick butt unit.

My favorite at this time is CoPilot. It has stuff for RVs to avoid (hopefully) low clearance bridges and the routing is generally the way I would want to go.

I was running CoPilot on my iPhone 6s. Worked fine but I find as I approach the 60th anniversary of my birth, my eyes aren't as sharp as they once were.

After some thought, I decide to 'upgrade' the screen size. I have an iPad2 and it runs CoPliot just fine. The size makes it easy to see the map and directions. I did have to add a bluetooth GPS receiver as my iPad is WiFi only without the built-in GPS receiver.

I looked around the cockpit of the Rev and thought mounting the iPad under the TV cabinet would work out. It would be easy to see in my field of vision without obscuring the 'picture window' view out the windshield.

Did some research and decided on a couple of products from Ram Mounts.

Pictured below is the holder for the iPad. I used a model RAM-HOL-AP15U to hold the iPad.



View of only the iPad holder.



The next picture shows the arm I selected. It attaches to the bottom of the TV cabinet and to the back of the iPad holder. It's a model RAM-B-101U-C 1-Inch Diameter Ball Mount with Long Double Socket Arm.


The last piece of the puzzle was a GPS receiver. Decided on the Dual Electronics XGPS150A pictured below.



Here's a photo of the completed set up.


My bride and I did a month long trip in July/August 2016 traveling from the east coast, to the west coast, and back. I just loved it! Large display of the iPad just made it so much easier to know your route.

No regrets other than I wish I had done it sooner.
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Old 11-24-2016, 11:49 AM   #61
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How is the volume level for turn notices?
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Old 11-24-2016, 08:56 PM   #62
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How is the volume level for turn notices?
Happy Thanksgiving, Glenn.

I'm very pleased with the volume level. I have it set to max volume on the iPad and have no problem hearing the prompts. This is based on a month long and 6,000 mile trip from Delaware to Portland, OR and back in July /August this year.
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Old 12-13-2016, 09:43 AM   #63
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Headlight Restoration

This post will cover using a 3M product to remove the heavy haze from the headlights. I did this in December 2015 and worked very well.

I was wandering through one of the local Wally World's and this caught my eye. Decide to try it seeing how the cost was only about $14. It comes with several grades of sandpaper from 500 grit to 3000. Also include a couple of pouches of polishing compound.



Here's what I started with on the passenger side. Note that I still hadn't cleaned off all the bugs from our Alaska trip earlier in 2015.



Here I had applied some tape to help protect the paint in case I got a bit wild with the sandpaper. I believe this was taken after hitting it with 500 grit sandpaper.


Here is about 2 sandings or so completed. Think is was after using 800 and then 1000 grit sandpaper.


Here the restoration is almost done. This was taken after sanding with 3000 grit paper.


Here is the result after hitting it with polishing compound. For some reason, I couldn't find the photo of the passenger side so had to use the final photo from the driver's side. (And, I didn't take any photos of the progress on the driver's side.) Anyway, both headlights were in the same sad shape.


The improvement at night was quite remarkable. The restoration has held up well and still looks nearly as good today as it did in 2015. However, it's time to hit with some more polishing compound.

Since that time, I came across a YouTube video from a guy going by the name Chris Fix. Same sanding principle but he used clear coat to achieve a much longer lasting fix. Here a link to the video

Here's the video


Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
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Old 12-13-2016, 11:07 AM   #64
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Painting the Basement Door Latches

In mid 2016, I finally painted the latches for the basement doors. Things looked really bad. I did it 2 ways.

The first way was to paint the latch while still on the door. It worked but took too much time to mask off everything.

After a couple of latches were painted, I decide it was just as easy to pull the latch off the door and paint it.

Below are some photos showing the progress.

In this set of photos, I painted them while still on the door. Turned out well.

Really needed to be painted.


Wet paint


Dry



Here's a couple of photos of the latches pulled from the door.

Prep work. The die in the photo was to chase the screws. The metal from the latch liked to bond with the screws.


Painted and dry.


It's impressive how such a small thing makes a big difference in the appearance of the motor home.
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Old 12-13-2016, 12:49 PM   #65
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Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

Glenn
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Old 12-13-2016, 01:47 PM   #66
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Surge Suppressor

In September 2016, I finally installed the Progressive Industries 50A hardwired surge protector. I had purchased it from a fellow iRV2 user about one year before.

This was a pretty straight forward project. Hardest part was deciding where to install it.

I had decided I was only going to have this on the incoming shore power line. Figured this had the greatest potential for poor power conditions as you move from campground to campground. Gen Set should be pretty consistent, although, something could go wrong but not enough to worry about protecting from it.

Of note, you can install it after the transfer switch to protect your stuff from surges, sags, etc from both the shore power and gen set.

I looked at putting it in the outside electric cable bay. Only concern I had was it would have required me to cut my 30 ft cable to splice the protector inline. Or I could look around for the correct plug and sockets to make up adapter so I could keep the cable intact. Too much trouble.

Second location was inside the coach under the bed. Easy enough to access and to insert the surge protector before the transfer switch. One downside is it would be harder to route the remote display to the outside electric cable bay. Decided to mount the remote in the bedroom area.

First photo shows the protector to the right of the transfer switch.
Purchased about 3 ft of #6 cable to go between the surge protector output and the transfer switch input.

I moved the shore power line from the center set of terminals on the transfer switch and installed it on the incoming side of the protector. Torqued all the electrical connections and reinstalled the 2 covers.


Next photo shows how I ran the remote display cable from inside the bed cabinet to just above the block heater switch for the engine. The cable is similiar to a telephone line cord but wired for data.


Final photo shows the display after powering up the coach with shore power.


One more project documented.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
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Old 12-13-2016, 02:48 PM   #67
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Nice install and project presentation.

I have the same surge protector an like it very much.

This was my Surge protector install


Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.


Glenn
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Old 12-14-2016, 07:58 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever View Post
Nice install and project presentation.

I have the same surge protector an like it very much.

This was my Surge protector install


Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.


Glenn
Thank you, Glenn, for taking the time to read and then comment on my posts. It means alot coming from you!

I had forgotten the very detailed documentation you did on your install. Well done!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to your and your family!
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Old 12-14-2016, 10:17 PM   #69
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New Floor for the Rev!

In June 2016, I replaced the flooring in the front of our Rev. The original carpet had seen better days.

I did much reading on iRV2 on how others had approached the project. It was very helpful. I especially like reading Ernie Ekburg's posts.

Here is what I started with; this is taken from the entry way looking toward the rear of the coach. I had started to move stuff around.

Pretty ugly looking carpet. We also decide to rip out the small section of tile in the entry way.

Demo Time!

The next series of photos shows the various stages of demo. While I knew there would be a lot, and I mean a LOT, of staples, I was surprised on how many. Pretty sure I shed about 500 pounds once all the staples were pulled.

I also was amazed at how well adhered the tile was to the subfloor! I had a couple of big pry bars at work to gradually break the tile loose. A big hammer didn't hurt either!

Here is a shot showing most of the carpet removed and the beginning of tearing out the tile



Another angle showing the progress.



Closer view of the driver's area.



Making progress on the tile.



Had to move the center console around to get at the carpet and tile. It was held down with 4 screws to the floor and 2 screw on the top that attached to the dash.



Close view of what's under the carpet in the driver's area. That black cover is not flush! That complicated things a bit.



Better view of the cover. It's about 1/2 inch tall.



Just another shot of the driver's area.



Almost have all the tile out. This photo was taken from the entry way.



Here I show the carpet on the side was removed. Note the little carpet pieces on the wall. Those are staples that need to go!



Here I show the kick plate that also had carpet on it. It's the black area above the steps.



Success in getting all the tile out! It was a lot of work!



Carpet on the other side removed. More staples to pull....



I also pulled the carpet from the trap door. They didn't spare the adhesive.



Another shot of the trap door area.



Our Rev has 2 slides on it. The front one runs from just behind the driver's seat to the end of the galley. This space has a couch. It also has a magazine rack. Absolutely useless in my opinion.



I decided to get rid of the rack. I picked up about 5 inches by doing so.



Out with the carpet on the slide.





Time to Install the New Flooring!
I debated on what type of flooring to use. I finally decide to go with a Pergo product called Outlast. Claims you can have standing water on it for 24 with no ill effects to the floor.

We went with a java color. Our cabinets are maple so the contrast of the floor looks really great.

This is a floating floor and the Pergo comes with the backing attached. I added another 2 mil of underlayment to raise the floor so it would be close to flush with the tile in the galley area.

This photo is the first piece of flooring laid in the slide area. Decided to start there so I could move the couch back into the slide.



Here most of the flooring is in the slide.



Here I'm attaching a trim piece to the front of the slide. The stairnose moulding goes on top. Oddly, I can't find a photo of what it looked like when the stairnose moulding was installed.



Once the slide was completed and I moved the couch back on the slide. I started working on the passenger side and made my way toward the driver's side.



I detached the pedestal in the photo so I could run the flooring under it.



Different view of the starting point.



Making progress around the steps.



More progress. I chose to cut around the seat mounts. It was too much trouble to pull the mount and you can't see it anyway when the seat is there.



Here the flooring is just about all the way across the coach.



I decided to leave the carpet on the seat mount. Like above, you can't see it with the seat installed. I did clean up the mount, removed the yellow sticker, and painted the mount a flat black.



One small piece to put in for the main floor.



Here a shot of the T-moulding I used for the transition from the new flooring to the tile in the galley area.



Close up view of the transition.



What to do about the driver's area
I mentioned above there's black cover that is about 1/2 inch above the subfloor. I sent a note to Ernie Ekberg with photos and asked his advice. He said it wasn't very often he's seen that but he has had to deal with it. He suggested carpet shims. Carpet shims are really long shim to gradually raise the flooring to the desired height. Given the short distance and driver's seat mount I have to deal with I decide to do it in a different way. I'd have a transition right at the beginning of the black cover.

This photo show the area that I need to make level.



Here I'm starting to add in plywood to build up the area. I used 1/2 inch.



Added in one more piece on the left side.



This shows where the main floor ends before the cover.



Here I disconnected the console to the left of the driver so I could raise it and run the flooring under it. It has the Allison shifter, mirror controls, and a few other switches for engine brake, air dump, etc.



Closer view.



Flooring under the console.



Here I'm fitting the flooring around the steering column. I remove the metal collar and put it on top of the flooring.



Getting closer to this being completed.



Flooring installed and the collar put back in place.



Here is a shot of the driver's area almost completed.



Here's the driver's area completed. There is a bit of gap on the left. But, without the extra light you simply can't see it. I also did paint the subfloor with flat black paint to help hide things.



I also trimmed around the seat mounts. Here's a shot of the driver's side.



Another view of the trim.



On to the Entry Way!

The following photos show the work on installing the flooring in the entry way.

In this photo, I started on the side. I worked from the top down.



Here I've added a couple more pieces. It took a bit of effort to scribe around the channel that the trap door travels on. To do the scribe, I made a template and then transferred it to the flooring. Cut it and then did fine tuning with a rasp.



Another section installed.



This shows this side completed. I also used a black Sharpie to color over the raw edges of the flooring and moulding. Really helps hide any minor gaps.



This photo shows the flooring that I attached to the frame of the kick panel. This previously had carpet. In this photo, I still needed to put on the remaining screw covers. You can also see that I had reinstalled the center console and installed the stairnose moulding in the step area.



The last part I tackled was the sliding trap door over the steps. In this photo, I show the completed product. I remove the backing from the flooring and used construction adhesive to glue it to the sliding door. I used a transition moulding to dress up the edges.



The clearance between the sliding door and where the door is stored it pretty tight. So, there is a larger gap than I would have liked. With carpet, it filled the gap.



Here's a closer view of that gap. Not too bad and you only see it when traveling.



That completes this project. I plan on doing the bedroom area but that'll have to wait until warming weather.
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Old 12-15-2016, 06:40 AM   #70
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Nice job! The '03 Revolution is a very dependable coach & it's great seeing what you are doing.
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