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Old 02-14-2010, 05:40 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Bob (WA0MQE) View Post
Power Gear makes the slide mechanical mechanism. Many other motorhome manufacturer's use this companies slide mechanisms as well.

The mechanism is one thing though. The box (wall's/ends/floor/roof) is another. This box is of course built by Fleetwood. For the most part it's not too bad, but in my opinion the floor portion the smooth part you see when you look up under the slide isn't built very well. At least not on the ends. Take a look at the attached photo and you'll see what I mean.



This is the kitchen slide that's separating, and the bedroom slide on the other side of the moho is doing the same thing. You can't see it in the photo but the underside is completely smooth. I though about putting some screws in it to suck it back up but I'm sure Fleetwood intentionally did not put screws here because they want to make sure it doesn't snag on anything, like a screw, when it moves in and out.

For the time being I guess I'll just fill the gap with silicon adhesive, at least to keep water out but I'm at a loss to figure out what to do about a permanent fix.
you might be able to use some countersunk headed screws to pull the floor back up,
that looks really weird.

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Old 02-17-2010, 05:46 AM   #16
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I sent the same photo to Fleetwood and their response was just what "powerboatr" mentions above. Use countersunk screws to pull it back up.

So I guess I'll try that with some stainless steel screws. It kinda seems weird they didn't do that when they were originally built. It's funny that the large living room slide which goes out quite abit further, meaning there's more distance, isn't showing any signs of this separation and drooping.

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Can a slide fuse heal itself?? :)
Old 02-17-2010, 04:31 PM   #17
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Hi all;
I recently tried to bring in my fleetwood providence slides and one of them wouldn't budge.,,,, wouldn't even make a noise. Got fleetwood customer service on the phone and they told me where to check the fuse.. I removed the fuse from that slide and borrowed one from another slide and it worked fine. I then replace the borrowed fuse in its propper place and placed the bad fuse back in it's original spot. Later forgot about it and clicked on the former errant slide and it went out no problem, then I brought it back in and back out again no problem.... What's the deal with this? Was it not the fuse to start with, or did my "jiggling" correct the problem with the fuse?
Thanks
Ed
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Old 02-18-2010, 06:55 AM   #18
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Corrosion is a common problem. Even with fuses. Just pulling the fuse and replacing it could have cleared a bit of corrosion. It's just like corrosion that can build up between a battery post and the battery cable. If these connections aren't clean and tight, especially with a heavy current draw like a starter or even a slide motor, it can cause complete failure of the motor.
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Old 03-06-2010, 02:09 PM   #19
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Willa and i have a 2000 Pace 33 foot on a Ford chassis with two slides. Both slides work fine now that I ''fixed'' the bedroom slide. It would sheer a pin in the drive gear on the motor about every tenth time the bedroom slide was extedned/retracted.. My ''fix'' for it was to take a 6 milameter allen wrench and cut it off about two inches long. I took the grinder and ''softened'' the corners on the allen wrench and put a bullet nose end on the allen wrench piece. after some swearin and cursin I got it lined up and drove it in with my 'extension rod'.. All went well............
Here is a ''tip'' that you may use...
When we 'extend either room' I stand close to the slide and put pressure on the top of the slide. Willa turns the key and the slide eases out nicely.
When we 'retract the rooms' I stand outside and lean on the wall making the slide go in easily. (if it has been raining you can get wet from the room awnings if you are not careful)
By doing the above you accomplish two things.
one. Helping the rooms move makes it much easier on your drive motors and they should last forever.
two. Helping the rooms gives you the ability to 'feel' the operation of the motors. Feel for binding, scraping, overloading etc........

Anyhow, that is what we do and our coach is ten years old and we use it a lot. We travle about six months out of each year.
Remember this.......... If you use my idea you must pay me ten cents the next time you seee me but if it dont work for you..................... I NEVER KNEW YOU .....LOL .....
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Old 03-13-2010, 07:52 AM   #20
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Here's a photo after I pulled the edges back up with screws per Fleetwood's recommendation. At first I was concerned the screws might catch when they go in, but after looking closely at the area under the slide I don't think it'll be a problem.



The screws are #10 X 1-inch flat head stainless steel. The are countersunk so the heads don't protrude just like the ones Fleetwood used on the sides.
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Old 03-14-2010, 08:43 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob (WA0MQE) View Post
Here's a photo after I pulled the edges back up with screws per Fleetwood's recommendation. At first I was concerned the screws might catch when they go in, but after looking closely at the area under the slide I don't think it'll be a problem.



The screws are #10 X 1-inch flat head stainless steel. The are countersunk so the heads don't protrude just like the ones Fleetwood used on the sides.
Bob, thanks for all the updates and info. One thing is confusing me. On one post you say the screws should be # 10 x 1" and on another you say # 10 x 3/4" ???

Which one did you finally use?

Cliff
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Old 03-16-2010, 03:58 PM   #22
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Cliff, I think I corrected that. In any case it's 1-inch.
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Old 05-17-2010, 03:46 PM   #23
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On another thread, the fix is to drill a hole through the metal bottom and pull it up using a countersinking Stainless Steel screw. I used one #8 x 3/4 on mine. Seal with Silicone Caulk.
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:46 PM   #24
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I have the 32vs 2005 Southwind.
The book says to have the engine running when putting slides in or out. Some times my bed room slide jumps but if you push harder on the switch it gets smooth. I had my slide seperate at the bottom my father in law put beveled holes with screws, all is fine now. Never had scrapping sound , put it back out and in again .
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Old 05-22-2010, 05:59 AM   #25
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3, your problem is the switch.

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