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11-19-2011, 12:29 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Beaumont, Calif.
Posts: 435
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1965 Scad-A-Bout Teardrop Trailer-1955 Crown "Canned Ham" Trailer-1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner-1983 Fleetwood Pace Arrow
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11-19-2011, 12:48 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Northwest Indiana
Posts: 155
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Hmmm......
Are you sure it is the radiator? Water pumps will sometimes leak only while rotating (running) and vice versa. Typically they'll leak out the "weep hole" at the bottom and the fluid will run down the lower radiator hose and drip near the radiator.
I'm just giving you another possibility, it may still be the radiator.
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11-19-2011, 01:28 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,266
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Another possibility is a loose hose clamp or even a leak in a hose. Have you looked for the source of the leak while the engine is running?
Safe Travels
Bob
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Bob, Sandi & Marmaduke the Big Pug
SW OREGON 2004 Journey 39K, 330 Cat
If towing: a Mini Cooper or Trike or CRV
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11-19-2011, 02:29 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Beaumont, Calif.
Posts: 435
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Thanks for the feedback, so far I have not been able to locate the area of the leak except it seem as if it is coming from the lower right bottom section of the radiator, and it is in a place I am not able to see anything because of the frame, the whole area is so tight it is all but impossible to see anything. Because of the belts and fan blade I don't feel safe trying to feel the area to locate the leak.
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1965 Scad-A-Bout Teardrop Trailer-1955 Crown "Canned Ham" Trailer-1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner-1983 Fleetwood Pace Arrow
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11-19-2011, 06:58 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 142
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Radiator shops can test the radiators after they have been removed. After the radiator is removed you will be able to inspect the other water lines and water pump. If you do have the raditor removed I would sure change all hoses and maybe the thermostat and pump while its "easy"  Good luck.
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11-19-2011, 07:39 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 7 Feathers, Oregon
Posts: 1,779
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Try calling around to some auto parts stores and see if they rent or loan tools. Ask for a radiator pressure tester. It's easy to use, just remove the radiator cap and connect the tester to the radiator. Pump it up a few pounds less then what your cap is rated for. (Probably 12-14 PSI) Then you can crawl under the MH with a flash light to locate the source of the leak. Hate to see you pull the whole radiator out if it just has a leaking hose/connection.
__________________
John
'98 Gulf Stream Sunsport 325, 7.5L Banks Power Pack, Koni FSD's, Air Bags, ReadyBrute Elite,
2000 Honda Accord
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11-20-2011, 03:10 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Beaumont, Calif.
Posts: 435
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I tried to replicate the leak today with no success, I was be able to find the leaking fins, but it seems as if the started and stopped and it never did dump like last time so that make same more confused than ever.
So I guess once I complete the flushing process I will dump some of the leak flakes into the raidator to see it if will solves the problem, being I still have not been able to find a way to remove it if after disassemble it, it seem as if there is no way to pull it out.
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1965 Scad-A-Bout Teardrop Trailer-1955 Crown "Canned Ham" Trailer-1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner-1983 Fleetwood Pace Arrow
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11-20-2011, 03:19 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: 7 Feathers, Oregon
Posts: 1,779
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Just remember that radiator stop leak is a temporary solution for a radiator leak. If the stop leak seems to fix the problem I would recommend to get an estimate to re-core the radiator from a local radiator repair shop.
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John
'98 Gulf Stream Sunsport 325, 7.5L Banks Power Pack, Koni FSD's, Air Bags, ReadyBrute Elite,
2000 Honda Accord
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11-21-2011, 08:53 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 306
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In my shop, I'd usually fill the system with water, then apply 15-20 psi to the hose I removed from the overflow tank (the small one, of course.) if it will not fail, remove the pressure, re-connect the hose, and let it run for 15-30 min. When warmed up, shut down the engine and start searching for the leak. Don't be a sissy . . .yep, you might get a slight burn or 2. Be ready with some ice cubes if you fry a finger.
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11-28-2011, 05:55 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Beaumont, Calif.
Posts: 435
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OK, then can anyone explain to me how I can easily remove the radiator , I have removed them in cars and truck but the Pace arrow is so tight, and so many things in front of it, make me wonder if it is a impossible job.
I already have over 10 grand invested in this motor-home and don't want to give up before I get a chance to use her, but again the continue cost make me wonder if it is all worth it.
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1965 Scad-A-Bout Teardrop Trailer-1955 Crown "Canned Ham" Trailer-1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner-1983 Fleetwood Pace Arrow
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11-28-2011, 07:52 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Bluff Dale, TX
Posts: 479
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Looks like you will have to drill the rivets to pull the grill. The radiator probably drops out.
RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Need help waterpump replacement 1983 pace arrow
Do a little more searching. There are other things to do and check with the radiator out.
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Most RV batteries live a long and useful life, some are murdered.
2000 National Sea Breeze F53
1998 CRV Toad
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11-28-2011, 07:52 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 210
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Kartvines ;You are almost correct in thinking that "there is no way" I replaced the radiator in my "89 Pace and it was a huge and time consuming job and the local rad shops could not order a core that would provide the OE number of tubes and also fit the OE tanks.The bottom line was a NEW rad from Ford that had to be built and took six weeks to arrive and cost a shade over five hundred dollars.This was in 1999 dollars.If yours is a Ford F53 like mine,it is pretty involved. You have not mentioned your chassis make.
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04 Southwind 37C W22
DIY Rear Panhard Rod
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11-29-2011, 04:39 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Beaumont, Calif.
Posts: 435
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Thanks for the feedback the chassis is the P30 being it is a Chevy 454 engine
__________________
1965 Scad-A-Bout Teardrop Trailer-1955 Crown "Canned Ham" Trailer-1966 Aristocrat Lo-Liner-1983 Fleetwood Pace Arrow
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11-29-2011, 07:12 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 4,506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanabee FTer
Just remember that radiator stop leak is a temporary solution for a radiator leak. If the stop leak seems to fix the problem I would recommend to get an estimate to re-core the radiator from a local radiator repair shop.
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I knocked a small hole in my radiator when the timing gear on my diesel truck popped off and hit it. I used a tube of AlumAseal and it has not leaked since and that was over 10 years and several flushes ago.
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2004 32' F53 National Sea Breeze 1311 - Segway X2 - Sadie, Co-Pilot & Best Friend 1800 lb, 400 HP, Corvette LS1 Powered Mid-Engine Sandrail 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD - 1994 Dodge Ram Stepside 1500
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