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Old 01-12-2015, 07:45 AM   #1
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Reefer fans connection

I have a Norcold 1210IM refrigerator in my 2008 Bounder that I am having problems with. I want to install fans in the refrigerator box to help with the condensation forming on the top of the box. I want them to come on when the door is closed and go off when it is opened. The problem is that the normal connection to the hot side of the light does not work because there is no power to the light with the door closed. Is there another point that I can connect to that will give me the desired mode of operation?
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:50 AM   #2
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I had that condensation issue in 2009 and started this thread. You'll see that a shim kit which was at the time covered by Norcold eliminated the problem.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/norco...all-60450.html
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Old 01-12-2015, 07:54 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by dialh View Post
I have a Norcold 1210IM refrigerator in my 2008 Bounder that I am having problems with. I want to install fans in the refrigerator box to help with the condensation forming on the top of the box. I want them to come on when the door is closed and go off when it is opened. The problem is that the normal connection to the hot side of the light does not work because there is no power to the light with the door closed. Is there another point that I can connect to that will give me the desired mode of operation?
I'm working with my Norcold also, the switch that turns the light on will have a "hot" side. This will give you power when the door is closed, but the fan will run when the door is open. I don't see that as a problem, but I'm sure you have a reason. I use the battery operated mini fan (2 D cells) available anywhere RV stuff is sold including Amazon.
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:02 AM   #4
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Reefer fan connection

Thanks for the info Clifftall, I have ordered the shim seal kit, $132 + according to both Norcold and RV World of Nokomis. It should be here sometime this week.

Brockx, the switch is enclosed on my 1210 and I do not see an easy way to get to the connections with out disassembling the fridge panels. It still will not operate the way I want it to even if I could figure out how to get to it due to the constant 12 volts to the switch. I just don't want cold air being blown out of the box when the door is open. I heard that the outside fans on some models only operate when the door is closed and that I might be able to pick up a signal off the PC board that will work as I want it to. I will check this out and even though I will have to route a wire through the drain (I really didn't want to do this either.) I might be able to get the result I am after.

Thanks to you both for the replies.
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:14 AM   #5
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I used this system which is set exclusively for the Norcold. Works great. Stopped all condensation build up. Only thing I did different was run the hot wire down the drain tube and spliced into the 12v plug in back of frig from outside. Dia not like idea of drilling hole into frig. Fan has on off switch. Nice blue light and three fans.
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:15 AM   #6
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Oops here is thread


Norcold 1200 Fridge-Fix Kit (Including Modified Drip Tray)
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Old 01-12-2015, 02:40 PM   #7
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Thanks for posting that site link. I have only had my unit about 6 weeks and just tinkering because I'm gun-shy of the 12^^ series. I did some exterior fan work and have a new temp switch to install for the upper exterior fans (on/off of 85/65 vs the 135/115. I suspect the 9 setting controls at 40 degrees as the lowest setting............??

no hi-jack intended............hope none perceived
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Old 01-13-2015, 05:48 PM   #8
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Thanks for the information. I am a little concerned that the drain tube might clog if I run the wire from the fans through it. Anyone use this approach for awhile? What have you discovered about tube flow with the wire running through it? I am really leaning toward taking this approach because I am not interested in drilling through the box either. Tomusaf, did you remove the flow diverter from the end of the drain tube?
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Old 01-13-2015, 07:16 PM   #9
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Thanks for the information. I am a little concerned that the drain tube might clog if I run the wire from the fans through it. Anyone use this approach for awhile? What have you discovered about tube flow with the wire running through it? I am really leaning toward taking this approach because I am not interested in drilling through the box either. Tomusaf, did you remove the flow diverter from the end of the drain tube?
I did that to run my fan wire to the outside area for 12V connection. Has been that way for a few months now and haven't noticed any degradation in the drain operation. Refer is always on, unless your wire is too thick or something, it's an easy solution and you can always "undo" it if need be.
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Old 01-14-2015, 08:17 AM   #10
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Reefer fan connection

Thanks for that reply. My wire is 22 guage or smaller so I don't think that will be a problem. I am going to wire that up today. Thanks again.
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clifftall View Post
I had that condensation issue in 2009 and started this thread. You'll see that a shim kit which was at the time covered by Norcold eliminated the problem.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/norco...all-60450.html
Cliff does look like the fix or the problem?
My coach was built 3/2008 Norcold model 1210IM

first pic is right door, second is left
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:29 PM   #12
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Cliff does look like the fix or the problem?

My coach was built 3/2008 Norcold model 1210IM



first pic is right door, second is left

I can't tell what your trying to show in those pics. I wasn't there when the tech installed the seal shim kit ( had to stay in the waiting room :( , I never liked that ).
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Old 01-14-2015, 06:30 PM   #13
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I can't tell what your trying to show in those pics. I wasn't there when the tech installed the seal shim kit ( had to stay in the waiting room :( , I never liked that ).
It is the upper corners of the 2 lower doors where they come together. Both sides look damaged to me, I'll take better pictures this week-end (stored off-site). If you click on the pics then 2x click again they get much larger.
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Old 01-15-2015, 01:23 PM   #14
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If you use a NC/HO contacter, you can pull switched power from the light to open the contacter when you open the door.
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