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Wanderer23 · 11-04-2017, 04:14 AM

2007 American Tradition (Class A DP new to us)

Just read the detailed instructions regarding winterizing the Dometic refrigerator (2007 also) and was wondering in as much as I've added RV antifreeze to the rest of the system, is it necessary to perform the procedure the manual suggests (disconnecting lines, blowing air thru, cycling the ice maker, etc)? Could I just cycle the water and ice maker until I get the pink solution from them? In the spring I'm going to have to do a very extensive cleaning/sanitizing of the entire freshwater system. Just wondering. It seems like a simple shortcut, but then again, not maybe a wise move on my part.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Spk64 · 11-04-2017, 04:23 AM

On my dedicated Uline ice maker it is not recommended to leave pink in the trays. This slowly deteriorates the coating. I had to replace it last year.
I now never shut it down with Water left in tray and in winter blow out lines and cycle it so it is dry and empty of water.

Gary RVRoamer · 11-05-2017, 03:12 PM

You don't actually need pink stuff in the ice tray - it is designed to get frozen, right? It's the solenoid in the water line behind the fridge and the water line up to it that need to be either fully drained or filled with antifreeze.

Usually you can disconnect the water feed at the icemaker solenoid and pump the pink stuff that far and out. Drain the solenoid so that no water remains inside.

Solask · 11-05-2017, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer

You don't actually need pink stuff in the ice tray - it is designed to get frozen, right? It's the solenoid in the water line behind the fridge and the water line up to it that need to be either fully drained or filled with antifreeze.

Usually you can disconnect the water feed at the icemaker solenoid and pump the pink stuff that far and out. Drain the solenoid so that no water remains inside.

X2,
My Dometic 1350 manual says nothing about running pink into the ice maker (yuk).. but I do remove the solenoid.

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Wanderer23 · 11-06-2017, 06:04 AM

Opened up the outside access panel to drain the solenoid or should I say thanked my lucky stars the panel was still attached. Techs had been replacing something in there prior to delivery. Fortunately the tabs at the top of the panel fit snugly into the sidewall. Touched it and it fell out. Why it stayed in bringing the rig home is a miracle. I suppose it was the water bottle, aluminum foil and the non secured wire diagram panel that held it in.

But anyway, removed the inlet line, and the two outlets and tied to drain out the water. Very little came out. Attached a hose over the solenoid inlet line threaded connector and to my compressor and set it to 15 psi. Went inside and pulled the cover in the freezer per the manual and tried to get it to "harvest" the ice. Didn't happen, I tried messing with it for an hour and finally gave up. I guess my next option is to remove the solenoid totally.

BTW, access panel closes fine IF the bottom retainers are turned correctly. RV Tech 101 one would think..........

wayno347 · 11-07-2017, 05:15 AM

How does one reach the waterline and solenoid at rear of the Samsung residential refrigerator in a 2016 Bounder? It's getting cold here in the upper Plains. I have a 75-watt light bulb in the freezer compartment generating some warmth, however, not enough for the solenoid.
PS: Already winterized the plumbing system but not the reefer ice maker.

CWSWine · 11-07-2017, 07:37 AM

On our coach we don't have outside access panel since it electric only. To get to the back of fridge I would have to remove trim pieces and unbolt brackets and pull out into the middle of floor to get to the back of the fridge. I can't believe the RV maker want you do that each year to winterize so I just ran pink stuff in to the ice make and cleaned the excess liquid out the area that make ice cubes. In the spring I run the ice maker till I get all the pink stuff out and if taste nasty I guess I will be use store bought ice.

Gary RVRoamer · 11-07-2017, 01:53 PM

Residential fridges have the ice maker solenoid under the fridge covers, so it has to be pulled and the fridge opened up to winterize that way. Not practical at all. To get antifreeze through it, you have to get the ice maker to run a cycle, which means the freezer has to be cold enough to make water-ice and stay that way long enough for a freeze cycle to complete. No way I know of to force that cycle without opening things up inside.

RV fridges have the ice maker solenoid external and screwed to a bracket on the back of the fridge. It is normally placed so that it is accessible from the exterior access panel. Easy to access the feed to the solenoid and to drain the solenoid itself (just a few drops).

Regardless of where the solenoid it, the problem is to get the water line emptied or anti-freezed up to the solenoid. Yu don't have to worry beyond that, because it is designed to be frozen and has room for the frozen water to expand. It's only the water trapped inside a water hose or solenoid that is a concern.

tmw188 · 11-07-2017, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wayno347

How does one reach the waterline and solenoid at rear of the Samsung residential refrigerator in a 2016 Bounder? It's getting cold here in the upper Plains. I have a 75-watt light bulb in the freezer compartment generating some warmth, however, not enough for the solenoid.
PS: Already winterized the plumbing system but not the reefer ice maker.

Just make a bunch of pink ice and call it good.