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Old 01-21-2011, 11:18 AM   #1
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Replacing RV Shower Faucet - 1999 Fleetwood Southwind 35S

It appears that I have a slow leak coming from my shower hot water line. Unfortunately, I am a bit too chubby to squeeze into the basement to check it out. I was wondering if anyone had ever had a need to access the area behind the shower. Usually every other RV water connection area has an access panel near the fixture to allow one to get into it later and access the faucet, but I am unable to locate one on my 1999 Fleetwood Southwind 35S. The only way I can guess would be to remove the paneling in the kitchen/dining area to see if there is an open access behind the wall to the shower stall. The shower stall is rectangular in shape except for the corner where the faucet is. On that corner, they molded the stall at a 45deg angle. So it would appear that there should be some way to get behind it - but I am scratching my head. Has anyone ever had to get behind their shower faucet that might be able to tell me if it is possible without ripping out the shower stall itself or cutting a new access door in the outside of the coach?

Thanks in advance for any replies!

Tom
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Old 01-21-2011, 11:48 AM   #2
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You may try contacting Fleetwood: 800-322-8216 #3

Please let us know if they will talk to you or have anything useful.
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:27 AM   #3
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I have re-posted this thread to the Fleetwood owners forum. Thanks for the suggestion to give them a call. Hopefully they can advise the best way to get behind the shower stall without major RV surgery. ;-)
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Old 02-27-2011, 10:55 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troglegs
It appears that I have a slow leak coming from my shower hot water line. Unfortunately, I am a bit too chubby to squeeze into the basement to check it out. I was wondering if anyone had ever had a need to access the area behind the shower. Usually every other RV water connection area has an access panel near the fixture to allow one to get into it later and access the faucet, but I am unable to locate one on my 1999 Fleetwood Southwind 35S. The only way I can guess would be to remove the paneling in the kitchen/dining area to see if there is an open access behind the wall to the shower stall. The shower stall is rectangular in shape except for the corner where the faucet is. On that corner, they molded the stall at a 45deg angle. So it would appear that there should be some way to get behind it - but I am scratching my head. Has anyone ever had to get behind their shower faucet that might be able to tell me if it is possible without ripping out the shower stall itself or cutting a new access door in the outside of the coach?

Thanks in advance for any replies!

Tom
I wanted to update everyone on the status of what I would call "Tom's big adventure with plumbing". It seems that after figuring I couldn't get to the shower faucet due to the lack of an access panel, I decided that the best way to get to it was to remove the wall on the family room next to the slide-out. After carefully removing a large mirror from the wall and taking down the lower and upper stapled walls - AND - using a box cutter to cut a small portal into the bathroom side of the wood paneling, there it was... The faucet was ready for me to repair. It was just then that I took note of a few screws sticking through the shower enclosure! What's this, I said?! (well, that wasn't exactly how i phrased it... I think it began with something like "What the...."). Yes folks, the stupid soap dish unscrews from the shower side and gives one a nice access into the faucet area. Live and learn, I guess.

It wasn't all wasted, however, taking down the wall and cutting open the wall to expose the pipes. As it turns out, the shower faucet was not leaking. What's leaking is the pipe which makes a 90degree drop turn below the shower pan and into the subfloor below. Totally inaccessible! I may have my 15 year old teenager (much skinnier than I) help me by going under the floor and cutting the line and repairing it with that snap flex tubing that they're using in homes these days. Still trying to figure it out. But i now know where the access panel for a shower faucet is in a 1999 Fleetwood Southwind 35S!

Happy trails,

Tom
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Old 02-27-2011, 11:56 AM   #5
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That is very usefull information I would never have thought to look there .Now I know if I ever have to look.
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:12 AM   #6
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Here is a link that may be of help:

RV NOW: Free Yourself From A Dribbling RV Shower
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:08 PM   #7
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Has anyone had experience replacing the old PVC RV pipes with the newer modern flexible hot n cold tubing that they're using in houses and RV's these days? Usually the piping just "snaps on" and routes back to a manifold someplace. I would like to use the new tubing as a repair piece where the old PVC is cracked and leaking now. I was just looking for someone who had experience with this kind of piping. Also, if you have the names of the vendors / suppliers who make the products, that might help me too. Thanks,

Tom

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Old 02-28-2011, 08:23 PM   #8
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I forget if it is called Pex or Plex tubing, but I plumbed my entire previous home with it. You can now buy it at Home Depot, red for hot, blue for cold. Check to make sure the hot can handle RV temps as they run much hotter water than houses. It should handle it but make sure as I don't know.

You need to buy the hose, crimping tool and the little clips to crimp. The tubing is very bendable so straight single run always worked for me, no having to cut and put in joints or elbows. You wont need a manifold if you are just replacing a section.

My advice would be to replace that whole line, or you can just do the leak spot, but whole line is one less line to worry about leaks later.

Let us know what you end up doing and how it works out. I might switch out a few of mine that have a large quantity of elbow joints, which make me nervous in cold weather.
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:26 PM   #9
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It is calle "plex" tubing and comes in various diameters and is available thru hardware/home building supply.It is allowed for plumbing in all states except for 2 for use in buildings. (forget which ones but in NE so probably can't find it in thoses states). RV's do not fall under same code. The fittings are brand named shark bite (don't remember other brand name). There are two types fittings (a permanent type that can't be removed and a removalable/reuseable type). Have personally used both the tubing/fittings in RV/home repair. Just make sure you have pipe completely seated in fitting. Don't worry if fitting turns on tubing after installation prior to pressure being applied. Fittings very easy to remove if needed. As its Paid for states you can use the crimps w/crimping tool (crimping rings are cheaper if you already own/rent the crimping tool but shark bites while quite more expensive are quicker and only need a knife to cut tubing. Tubing will stand up to around 140 *F i believe Tubing I purchase at Lowes/Home Depot is opaque color
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Old 03-01-2011, 12:21 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob N Deb View Post
That is very usefull information I would never have thought to look there .Now I know if I ever have to look.
........Times two, good helpfull information.
David G.
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Old 05-21-2011, 09:02 PM   #11
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Oh, I hate internet mis-information! It is called Pex, and it's good for 300F, much more than ANY waterheater is capable of. Sharkbite, Zurn & some others make no-tool fittings in nylon & brass.
Cross-linked polyethylene - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:06 AM   #12
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It is called PEX and my 2006 Revolution is plumbed through out using PEX and the crimped on fittings. The "screw on" fittings are used only on my water fixtures and hot water heater. "shark bite" and other similar fittings are used when you do not have a crimping tool or the space is too small for the tool.
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Old 05-23-2011, 05:18 PM   #13
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Yes it's Pex.. Available online or at plumbing supply houses and Lowes/Home Depot.
Comes in 3 colors .red .blue .and the white/opaque. Lowes/Home Depot may only have the opaque, but you may be able to buy short lengths at those stores( instead of a roll).
Easy to work with and connect using either the crimp method or a Shark Bite fitting.
Thanks for the tip on the soap dish..
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:23 PM   #14
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Have never seen Pex in a roll (lots of things tho I have never seen). Have always purchased it as a flexible pipe (4 foot or 10 foot lengths) and have only seen it in white color. The tubing in rolls I believe is Plex. It may come as pipe also (could be wrong tho-wouldn't be the first time.) Have used Pex in RV's and my home over the years. will stand up to 180PSI and 0ver 140 degrees. Two different types of crimp rings can be used tho crimp tool can be a PITA in close quarters. Sharkbite type connectors are handy but a bit expensive. I usually carry a piece of Pex plus a sharkbite in the RV.
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