Community Forums

mojoracing · 07-14-2014, 06:11 AM

Wondering if the sub floor in a bounder is rigid enough to install actual ceramic or porcelain tile where there is now vinyl? I know lots of folks who have used the high end vinyl tile but if I'm going to do it I want a real luxury feel. Something like they put in the discovery. I would think they have adhesives and flexible grouts that would allow a bit of flexibility. I have a few bubbles in the floor that it will most likely have to go to the factory to fix. I don't want them to replace it as I experienced that in my gulf stream and it was never right. Needed quarter round to keep it from curling at the edges and such. Im not worried about weight. I want a solid high end permanent fix to crappy vinyl and don't want to do wood or a look alike. Any suggestions other than upgrading to a discovery?

Brian W · 07-14-2014, 06:27 AM

Since you don't want LVT I don't have any suggestions. I think the floor is rigid enough. My biggest concern would be weight and slide operation due to increased height from linoleum to tile.

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SarahW · 07-14-2014, 10:37 AM

Mojo--think of our Bounders as tract houses.

They work well, but why put a lot of upgrade money into one when you won't get it back? (Unless you plan to keep the Bounder for years to enjoy your upgrades. It's still going to "appraise" like the comps in the neighborhood.) If you want a Discovery, enjoy your Bounder for a while then trade up. If we ever trade our Bounder in on a DP, we are going to put the original furnishings back in because we know we will take a beating on a trade and our upgrades won't matter.

Naturally if you're planning to keep the Bounder for a long time, your upgrades will be worth it to you because it's nice to make our coaches unique and more to our own individual style and taste.

Like Brian, my main concern would be the additional weight of the tile and the possible problems with the salon slide. Of course, now that I think about it the slide is on the carpet, so if you are only replacing the vinyl that probably isn't a consideration. (Then there's that slippery slope of "why not replace the carpet, too??

)

We have not had any problem with our vinyl, but if we did I'd probably ask them to try injecting adhesive or something before tearing it out.

Brian W · 07-14-2014, 12:50 PM

Actually although the slide has carpet, it slides over the vinyl. It "floats" over the vinyl without touching it when retracted. We have a area rug it barely clears.

It seems to me that after you rip the vinyl out you would have to put a self leveling underlayment down, then you have the thin set, then the tile. Just wandering if all that would still allow the slide to extend and retract properly.

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SarahW · 07-14-2014, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian W

Actually although the slide has carpet, it slides over the vinyl. It "floats" over the vinyl without touching it when retracted. We have a area rug it barely clears.

It seems to me that after you rip the vinyl out you would have to put a self leveling underlayment down, then you have the thin set, then the tile. Just wandering if all that would still allow the slide to extend and retract properly.

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Hmmm, now that you mention it, the slide does go partially over the vinyl but doesn't actual touch it. I'm sure a good flooring installer (like Ernie) could make it fit, but there's still the additional weight to contend with.

It just occurred to me that there's another reason the manufacturers put all the flooring down, then add the walls. That way they don't have the additional cost of trim pieces like quarter round and baseboards.

Brian W · 07-14-2014, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SarahW

Hmmm, now that you mention it, the slide does go partially over the vinyl but doesn't actual touch it.

Are you actually admitting I am right on something? Wooooohooooo😃

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SarahW · 07-14-2014, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian W

Are you actually admitting I am right on something? Wooooohooooo😃

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Yeah, but don't tell Lori.

I just broke the "women's code." I might get drummed out of the gender.

mojoracing · 07-14-2014, 03:52 PM

Sarah, its never about the money with me. If I decide to put in tile, cost wont be a motivating or demotivating factor. Im fully aware that upgrades add nothing to the value. For me it would be just something that makes me happy. It drives me crazy to look at the bubbles in the floor. If it had a scratch I would immediately get it fixed or sell it. You've all heard me kick around the idea of trading up to a DP and I probably will. I just havnt decided on a floor plan yet and am actually hoping they add one or two new ones to the Discovery line. So until then I will upgrade a few things. As far as replacing the carpet goes, that wont happen. At least not with tile. I love carpet in the bedroom. I will definitely consider replacing the stock carpet with nicer stuff when and if I do the tile. We did a really nice frise (sp?) in our last MH and it came out really well. It was a very high end carpet but the installer was great. Looked better than factory even around the doghouse and the edges were bound much nicer than factory. To me its a hobby and I love making it as comfortable and as nice as my S&B. Anyway I want the tile in the same spots that the factory puts the vinyl in. The entry, kitchen, half bath and master bath.

SarahW · 07-14-2014, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mojoracing

Sarah, its never about the money with me...

So sayeth any RV owner.

Oh, we all get it, mojo!! I guess I was trying to say in a round about fashion, that if you are seriously considering moving up to DP, why bother spending money on upgrades that won't matter when you trade.

I totally agree that I want my motorhome to be the way I want it, and I like customizing. I also like carpet in the RV, especially the bedroom. I also think carpet adds a little noise dampening.

If you decide to go with the ceramic tile, we will all be checking out your progress!!

(And looking on with envy!!)

Ernie Ekberg · 07-14-2014, 04:58 PM

I just completed a Bounder with the luxury vinyl tile. The street slide would drag on the new vinyl. We added a piece of carpet and an 1/8 inch piece of wood to make the slide raise over the new floor. The original floor had carpet and the slide would glide over that,
If you add underlayment, thinset, tile and grout, your slide will have a heck of a time coming in and going out. Too much elevation is not good. With 5 pounds of weight per square foot- your CCC will be impacted. FYI

mojoracing · 07-14-2014, 06:04 PM

I will be leaving the carpet where the slide is. Shouldn't the slide ride over that and then be high enough to clear the tile which is further in? Once I remove the vinyl can I out the tile right over the existing plywood?

Ernie Ekberg · 07-14-2014, 06:46 PM

you have some smooth plywood. Yes- but you may have the stove bolt holes that need to be filled. Some of those bolts may have a thin piece of metal covering those that need removing

Chuck&Pam · 07-14-2014, 07:42 PM

we have looked a a couple of used DPs within recent weeks... one with factory tile and no carpet under the slide, the other I think was a retrofit by an owner. Both had bad scratches in the tile where the slide comes in. About 3 or 4 strips across the center of the floor visible when the slide was out. It really surprised me to see that in the factory job. However, you do see a lot of nice tile done without any scratches. I think it is simply a matter of someone that knows what they are doing, and having the slides adjusted appropriately.

WOODYDEL · 07-15-2014, 11:21 AM

I would rather use a product like Armstrong Alterna. It can even be grouted between the tile. My kitchen "cabinets" are some manmade composite material with vinyl on the surface, not wood. Look closely. Real ceramic tile does not look any different than the product mentioned. No cracks or excess weight. Just my 2 cents. 2014 33C same as your 35K except for the baths.