Bounder: Restoration of 1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34V

[superk]

Originally Posted by Traveler78

Thanks for the photo of the shifter and open wire to the OD switch/light. I will be checking mine out on our 2000 Southwind.

Happy to help!

Ok so we have some news. We just got back from our vacation. We were gone near 3 weeks. The trip was worth about 3700 miles. We stopped 2 times each day of travel for the animals, and to check up on oil and inspect the coach. 4 days of travel each way to nova scotia.


Aside from a headache day caused by a loose and corroded battery terminal, absolutely everything was good. There was nothing major to report. I noticed a little fluid leaking from the abs sensor on the diff. I topped it up once, it didnt seem to need that much. I plan to drain and replace the oil. If something got out. Something could have gotten in.

Somehow, the remote start for the generator stopped working. At first it would start intermittently. Then it would not start, but i could stop, now it wont let me start or stop but it still shows on when its on. I suspect broken wires somewhere. After some reading, apparantly there is a connection near the generator I should examine.

This trip was 3700 miles, add in roughly 1200 miles of previous trips, I think its time for an oil/filter change.

I noticed a few rear clearence lights stopped working. going to change them all for led.

• Diff Oil
• Engine Oil
• Generator switch
• Clearence lights

From experienced owners, anything I should be adding to that list?

[superk]

Also, on a side note. As per this link http://www.irv2.com/forums/f53/how-t...2v-255649.html I added some usb ports to my console, providing power for portable devices.

[ga traveler]

As you stand and look at the generator, on your right side of the generator is a wire loom. It is about eight wires on a plastic plug that plugs into the generator. that is the remote start wiring. You will probably find it not plugged in all the way.

[superk]

Originally Posted by ga traveler

As you stand and look at the generator, on your right side of the generator is a wire loom. It is about eight wires on a plastic plug that plugs into the generator. that is the remote start wiring. You will probably find it not plugged in all the way.

I found a splice where you mentioned. If there was a plug there before, there is no longer. The splice seems to consist of butt connectors, heat shrink wrapped, then electrical taped, covered in that plastic channel stuff, then taped again.

When I got to the heat shrink I stopped, that connection should certainly be ok after all the precautions? Nonetheless, I wiggled and moved it around to see about any loose connections, and nothing.

I have checked multiple manuals and none of them have the manual for my control board 300-4902 so I cant even figure out which wires do what to test.

[ChasL]

Check out SmokStak web site for Onan GenSets if you have not done so. Very helpful site I used them to fix my GenSet. I had same problem as you and was loose wire on remote plug on Generator.

[the Munkees]

Thank you so much for this SuperK! We are going to look at a 2000 34D on Monday and this thread has given me a ton more knowledge of what to look for before and after the purchase.

[superk]

Originally Posted by the Munkees

Thank you so much for this SuperK! We are going to look at a 2000 34D on Monday and this thread has given me a ton more knowledge of what to look for before and after the purchase.

I am happy to share my experiences and outcomes. Its nice to see others taking something home as well!

The thanks should truly go to those who occasion this thread and offer their support and guidance.

Originally Posted by ChasL

Check out SmokStak web site for Onan GenSets if you have not done so. Very helpful site I used them to fix my GenSet. I had same problem as you and was loose wire on remote plug on Generator.

I actually have a smokstak account and have been in pm with someone over there. Very good advice indeed. Its a great place with tons of helpful people!

[kb2ztx]

Well i pulled the trigger on the lights also. My wife followed me this weekend and complained about not being able to see the brake lights. I think i'll also add a third brake light being the adapter will give me the brake light circuit.

[mrt_1111]

Originally Posted by superk

Ok So here it is. Definitive proof, that contrary to whatever the air intake sticker might say, my 1999 2v v10 f53 is indeed obd2.

When working on my v10 1999, I ran across the attached document. Seem I have OBD2 hardware with modified OBD2 software. The OBD2 requires down stream O2 sensors. I do not have them only have upstream sensors. According to this document my 1999 v10 only has to meet OBDI standard, hence the OBDI sticker.

[ChasL]

Thanks a Million. This has helped me find and repair my EGR problems. It also contains very good info on the emission system on my 1999 34V Bounder. Very good find.

[mrt_1111]

Your welcome.

[superk]

Back from the dead!!

Ok so we had a great trip to N.S. and back. The bounder performed wonderfully, with no breakdowns, and we had a great trip. Overall we ran about 5400 km on that trip. Most 'excitement' was a loose positive terminal on truck battery that caused some interesting PCM behaviour and failing to start. A quick screw in the terminal made us mobile until we could get to a store to buy a new one. The trip cost roughly $1900 in fuel, combined engine and generator use (on the road). We traveled 4 days each way, to give me a break as my DW does not wish to drive the coach. Overall, was just fantastic. Got back to work, new position with lots more hours, got it balanced now. Just in time, summer is starting to roll in.

Took the coach out of storage a few weeks ago, its still winterized but I have already done an oil change, re-polished the cabinetry, and started finishing the bedroom tv (pics soon).

Also getting prepared for a complete inverter installation (will address this below).

Originally Posted by kb2ztx

Well i pulled the trigger on the lights also. My wife followed me this weekend and complained about not being able to see the brake lights. I think i'll also add a third brake light being the adapter will give me the brake light circuit.

During the day I noticed that the brake lights under direct strong sunlight CAN indeed be hard to see, I am also planning on dealing with this via a red led strip. This summer we have her parked at a campground, but that affords me the time to work on repairs and upgrades.

Originally Posted by mrt_1111

When working on my v10 1999, I ran across the attached document. Seem I have OBD2 hardware with modified OBD2 software. The OBD2 requires down stream O2 sensors. I do not have them only have upstream sensors. According to this document my 1999 v10 only has to meet OBDI standard, hence the OBDI sticker.

Very good find, and I super appreciate you posting that. I gave it a look over and it helped to make a lot of sense about a lot of stuff lol.


So, for the first part of summer, here is my list:

• Finish bedroom tv update
• replace 2 broken hydraulic hoses
• replace abs sensor on rear diff, seems to be leaking oil from the top of the differential.
• ? rotate tires ? Any input on this?
• Install an inverter, tied into breaker box, new transfer switch etc. (see below)

I already have a bunch of the parts necessary to do the inverter install, with more in the mail, and more to be ordered in a week or so.

Here are the pics of the new bracket I installed in the bedroom. the tv is going to go onto it tomorrow, after I have cleaned and dusted the cabinet.

.

Swivel arm, extended. The mount itself articulates and rotates 360 degrees



Thats it for now, sorry to have been away for this long!

[cbilodeau]

Originally Posted by superk

...
From experienced owners, anything I should be adding to that list?

1 - LP gas detector every 7 years. They have a limited life time. I replaced mine with a cheap "Alarm LP detector" found for 15$ on eBay or aliexpress.com. Had to wire it with a small 12v relay.

2 - Brake oil every two years (Super DOT 4). It accumulates water over time. Also grease on brake sliding pins.

3 - Prestone on radiator every two years so that your radiator will last very long because there will be almost no corrosion inside.

4 - ATF oil (I take the cheapest Automatic transmission oil) in hydraulic jack every two years so there will be no corrosion in the system. Two years This is what the manufacturer suggest.

[ChasL]

What Brand is the TV mount? I am trying to find one just like it. Thank You.