Squeaky driver and passenger side dashboard "corners"

[ualdriver]

Originally Posted by ScopeGuard

If you replace the screws and they tap into to brace and tighten, you should have no squeaks. Remove and replace the screws a couple at a time, not all at once.

OK, cool. I'll give it a try. Thanks!

[MathComp]

After I removed the long rubber strip on top of the dashboard, I found that several of the holes in the two metal strips had no screws in them! One at a time, I either filled the missing holes or replaced the 1'' screws that were already there with 1.25'' screws. However, a few of the new screws didn't feel like they were going into the beam underneath. It seemed like they weren't tapping into it. (I was doing this all by hand with a screwdriver.) Would it be advisable to try to drill a small "starter" hole from above down into the beam?

Thanks,
MathComp

[ScopeGuard]

Originally Posted by MathComp

After I removed the long rubber strip on top of the dashboard, I found that several of the holes in the two metal strips had no screws in them! One at a time, I either filled the missing holes or replaced the 1'' screws that were already there with 1.25'' screws. However, a few of the new screws didn't feel like they were going into the beam underneath. It seemed like they weren't tapping into it. (I was doing this all by hand with a screwdriver.) Would it be advisable to try to drill a small "starter" hole from above down into the beam?

Thanks,
MathComp

Use self tapping screws and a drill motor or driver. You’re not going to accomplish what is needed with a manual screw driver. The ones you have already installed are not screwed into the frame.

[MathComp]

Originally Posted by ScopeGuard

Use self tapping screws and a drill motor or driver. You’re not going to accomplish what is needed with a manual screw driver. The ones you have already installed are not screwed into the frame.

Well, I tried a drill driver and I even tried 1.5'' screws after trying the 1.25'' screws (both types were "self-drilling"). Here's what I think is happening for me; others' RVs might be different.

I'm sure the screws weren't making it through the metal frame, and I actually don't think I can get them through. I could feel the 1.5'' screw hit the frame, but I couldn't get it to drill through it, no matter how much I leaned on the drill or kept trying. On the other hand, I can see that there's a strip of wood (or something) about 3/8'' thick on top of the frame piece between the frame and the dashboard pieces. In fact, that piece of wood goes all the way across, whereas the frame has a couple of gaps. I'm thinking that, although it would be nice to actually screw all the way down into the frame, the original design is to just screw down into that wood strip. I'm hoping that wood strip is somehow securely attached to the frame.

I gave up on the 1.5'' screws and put in the 1.25'' screws. Not only did I fill all the holes, including those where there were originally screws missing, but I added a few extras, as well. In most areas, it feels more solid, but we'll just have to see if it eliminates the squeaks.

I do think the original 1'' screws were too short to even sufficiently go into the wood strip. However, I'm slightly concerned that the 1.25'' screws might be too long. Since one of the original holes lines up with one of the frame gaps, I could see that the 1.25'' screw was slightly protruding through the bottom of the wood strip. My concern, then, is what's happening where a screw is hitting the frame. Hopefully it's not separating the wood from the frame. I guess time will tell.

Thanks,
MathComp

[ScopeGuard]

Originally Posted by MathComp

Well, I tried a drill driver and I even tried 1.5'' screws after trying the 1.25'' screws (both types were "self-drilling"). Here's what I think is happening for me; others' RVs might be different.

I'm sure the screws weren't making it through the metal frame, and I actually don't think I can get them through. I could feel the 1.5'' screw hit the frame, but I couldn't get it to drill through it, no matter how much I leaned on the drill or kept trying. On the other hand, I can see that there's a strip of wood (or something) about 3/8'' thick on top of the frame piece between the frame and the dashboard pieces. In fact, that piece of wood goes all the way across, whereas the frame has a couple of gaps. I'm thinking that, although it would be nice to actually screw all the way down into the frame, the original design is to just screw down into that wood strip. I'm hoping that wood strip is somehow securely attached to the frame.

I gave up on the 1.5'' screws and put in the 1.25'' screws. Not only did I fill all the holes, including those where there were originally screws missing, but I added a few extras, as well. In most areas, it feels more solid, but we'll just have to see if it eliminates the squeaks.

I do think the original 1'' screws were too short to even sufficiently go into the wood strip. However, I'm slightly concerned that the 1.25'' screws might be too long. Since one of the original holes lines up with one of the frame gaps, I could see that the 1.25'' screw was slightly protruding through the bottom of the wood strip. My concern, then, is what's happening where a screw is hitting the frame. Hopefully it's not separating the wood from the frame. I guess time will tell.

Thanks,
MathComp

Drill a pilot hole.

[u04601]

We had a squeak that we THOUGHT was coming from the dash. It ended up being a broken bracket that we had to have welded. The broken bracket was located below the right hand side of the dash and could be seen by looking up from the ground. We have a 2004 Tiffin on a Ford F53 chassis.

[MathComp]

Originally Posted by ScopeGuard

Drill a pilot hole.

Ah! My original thought! It'll be hard to just wait and see if it's still squeaky now. At some point I'm not going to be able to stop myself from taking it apart again and doing that.


Thanks,
MathComp

[ualdriver]

Originally Posted by ScopeGuard

Attachment 251158

When I remove that strip of screws, does the dash at that point completely come apart? Is there anything else that has to be unscrewed or unsnapped or whatever to get complete access to the areas under the dash and where the dash meets the house?

[ScopeGuard]

Originally Posted by ualdriver

When I remove that strip of screws, does the dash at that point completely come apart? Is there anything else that has to be unscrewed or unsnapped or whatever to get complete access to the areas under the dash and where the dash meets the house?

Don’t remove all of the screws at once, remove a couple and replace, repeat until all replaced.

[ualdriver]

Originally Posted by ScopeGuard

Don’t remove all of the screws at once, remove a couple and replace, repeat until all replaced.

Understood. But I was thinking I want to take the dash apart anyway and see what is back there. That’s why I was wondering what to do to when I take that row of screws out.

[ScopeGuard]

The dash separates into two pieces, you don’t want or need to do that.

[ualdriver]

Originally Posted by ScopeGuard

The dash separates into two pieces, you don’t want or need to do that.

I would like to take it apart just because......I want to see what's there. Is it terribly difficult to take apart or put back together if I remove that strip of screws? I understand that normally one would just remove a few screws at a time.

Thanks.

[Bad Larry]

Originally Posted by ualdriver

I would like to take it apart just because......I want to see what's there. Is it terribly difficult to take apart or put back together if I remove that strip of screws? I understand that normally one would just remove a few screws at a time.

Thanks.

I ended up reattaching my dash from the bottom up in our 2019 PA 33D. I started by removing the access panel in the center, then unscrewed the square metal tubing subframe from the floor. I discovered two broken “welds” causing the entire center portion of the dash to “float” (pictured below).

Eventually, I repaired the frame, repainted it (rusty mess) and through-bolted the plywood portion of the dash to the frame in several places. I also took the instrument shroud (arched plastic portion of the dash) off, placed thin foam insulating/packing material under it, and through-bolted it back on wherever possible.

At the joint between the dash and fiberglass near the windshield, I removed the aluminum strips, and added some 1/4 weather stripping to the side closest to the windshield (fiberglass side) as the other already had some in place. Then I upsized the screws holding the aluminum to #10 X inch and 1/4, and added a dab of silicone to each one. The assembly went back together without a problem, and the difference on the road was amazing.

With the dash quieted down, I am on the hunt for a few minor noises we couldn’t hear over the constant dash squeaks...

I couldn’t agree more with the disappointing quality control in the construction of our coach.

I am reluctant to start another thread about all the other issues that they didn’t take care of at the factory or at our first warranty service, we love the size and floor plan of our 33D, and don’t want to complain about something we had a choice in buying.

Some great information here, and I appreciate everyone’s willingness to share experiences,
Steve

[Fiesta48]

I've got a load cracking noise from the dash, got 38k miles on my DP. I've worked on this at 25 times. I've fixed at least 25 other squeaks and rattles. Fix one and another shows up soon. Good luck!