Community Forums

mrfix · 08-05-2016, 11:35 AM

Yes you are correct

okcnewbie · 08-05-2016, 11:56 AM

I just met an owner of a 2015 Georgetown XL (Ford V10 chassis) while at Jellystone this week.
The handling was bad enough in cross winds that he was having buyers remorse. After research and I think he said about $ 4,000 he has since put 12,000 miles on the new rig and loves it. He had something added to the front and rear if I remember right. The point is you can research and probably have your rig drive better if you want to.

My 1996 Tioga already drives more like a van/car than a truck. No problems with normal Oklahoma crosswinds (about 20mph).

Dale & Mark Bruss · 08-05-2016, 02:38 PM

I was used to driving a Volvo semi-tractor pulling our fifth-wheel. Now you would believe that an OTR tractor is as well equipped as can be. The tractor was about the same weight as our Bounder.

With our Bounder we put a Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer on right away. With just that, the Bounder drove like the Volvo. A little sway from a passing semi or strong cross winds.

I put on a rear axle track bar because so many people have and it took away the little sway of a passing semi.

We put Koni shocks which took the jarring impact of road bumps away. After a couple of California roads, I was in pain at the end of the day with the standard shocks. Great improvement.

But with the much softer Koni shocks, the resistance to sway in turns was reduced. So I am research strong anti-sway bars.

So should these items be standard. Well the Bounder is a price point product. A very well equipped motorhome for the price. And as some of the posts in this thread, the standard suspension is okay. I feel the cost of these additions are okay because I appreciate the improvement in ride as I get older.

Retired-Jake · 08-05-2016, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dale & Mark Bruss

But with the much softer Koni shocks, the resistance to sway in turns was reduced. So I am research strong anti-sway bars

Before you spend money on expensive stiffer sway bars, perform the cheap handling fix (CHF). This is simply moving the attachment point of the sway bar link to be closer to the sway bar, from the outer hole to the inner hole. This effectively stiffens the sway bar and has been performed by hundreds of F53 owners. Almost all implementers have been favorably impressed with the results.

Complete instructions and information can be found in the Ford Chassis Forum.

Jake

Tillerman · 08-06-2016, 02:47 AM

I experienced the same thing with my steering on my 2016 Bounder 33C. I added the Safe T steer and it was a big improvement. I no longer have to continually make steering adjustments while driving.

TeJay · 08-06-2016, 05:48 AM

Since Ford is the only manufacturer in the game you have to accept what they produce. Over the years they have added a few items which will help but not cure the F-53 woes.

A front track bar (TB) was added several years ago. In 2012 ford switched to poly rubber for the front and rear SB (stabilizer bars) also know as anti-sway bars.

They changed to Bilstein shocks but those shocks are valved different than ones you could purchase as an after market item. The stock ones are not the best of stock shocks but the aftermarket Bilsteins are good as has been reported. So are the Koni's but at almost double the cost they should be good.

As far as wheel alignment well the numbers do have to be correct. The Ford chassis is a straight front axle and does have some issues. Two of the three major alignment angles can be adjusted: toe and caster. Toe if incorrect will cause tire wear on the inside or outside of the tires. Most good techs indicate 1/16" of toe in is correct. The other angle, Caster is also adjustable and will effect return-ability and straight ahead steering of the steering wheel. That angle is also adjustable using shims.

Camber which is the tile of the wheel in or out as measured at the top of the tire is adjustable but Ford does not recommend that it be performed. WHY?? Because it requires bending of the straight axle cold. To do that requires hydraulic jacks. That said if the camber if not correct that should mean Ford did not make the axle correctly. Alas they will not admit that the camber is not correct. Incorrect camber will wear the tires.

Here's an alignment myth that is spread around most forums. "You should have your coach aligned after you fill it up with your stuff." Not true. The only one of those alignment angles that could change after adding your weight is camber. Since ford does not believe you should bend the axles then why or how would it change??

Yes you can overload front or rear and that will effect the driving and handling. There's probably no one who has not overloaded a pickup truck with concrete or logs and tried to drive it home with little weight on those front wheels. It was very squirrely to drive. While it is difficult to drive that will not cause tire wear.

Yes independent front suspensions do change when loaded and will require alignment angle changes when loaded. In fact several manufacturers of cars recommend to the techs that weights be added to the front end passenger compartments to simulate their passengers.

Alignments are needed for three reasons.
1. Worn steering or suspension parts. Not likely on a new coach.
2. Bent steering or suspension parts. Not likely but possible on a new coach.
3. The first (or previous) alignment was not performed correctly. That's entirely possible.

We had our coached aligned with only 700 miles on it. It was approved and paid for by Ford because it had a bad pull. ALL alignment angle were off. That means that WBGO did not correctly align the coach at the factory. Yes they did bend the axles to correct the camber issue. He also said he would not do it again. We have 17,000 miles on the coach and no pulling or tire wear issues so far.

You can get Ford to pay for an alignment if you can find a service manager who will tell Ford there is an issue or problem effecting the tire wear or handling. My service manager didn't hesitate a second and Ford paid for an independent shop to do the alignment ($150). There is no Ford shop in the area.

We added a rear DIY- TB, Steer safe and performed the CHF for better sway control. We also run the tires at 84 lbs. I can drive in most winds with one hand. Very little semi wind push effect.

Sure would have like to just driven off the lot with no issues but Ford did not make that possible. So we had to spend about $2,000 additional bucks to get it right. Not to bad of an additional investment for the number of hours I've spent behind the wheel. I believe the engine hour meter is past 300 hours.

I'd make the improvements again if I ever trade this unit and get another F-53 chassis.

jssr poster #11 probably made the most concise and common sense responses to this thread.

TeJay

Car54 · 08-06-2016, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pops1339

Liking my 35K (2016) Bounder. However not liking the need to constantly make (minor) steering corrections while driving. Looking for recommendations/experiences with after market items to improve the situation.

To test if you're a good candidate for the rear track bar, go the rear of your MH and grab the ladder and see how much lateral shaking you can do. My 35K would move about 4-5 inches with moderate tugging/swinging. Added the track bar (after CHF and BlueOx Steer bar) and that sucker was planted. It moves now about an inch or so but it's really hard to get swinging.

The rear track bar is probably what I'd start with if doing it all over again, but I think they all add up. My wife noticed the rear track bar from the passenger seat...and it gave her enough confidence to drive...even pulling our 16' enclosed trailer.

Good luck!

rssj · 08-07-2016, 08:08 AM

Thanks TeJay....Believe it or not, I weighed my motorhome and found the rear was within 700 lbs of the weight limit while the front was 2000 lbs away. I could not believe this so I did it again with the same result. This is a 33'8" coach on a 22000 lb chassis with a 208" wheelbase. In addition to all the residential appliances and fancy decor, there is a king size bed and washer/dryer combo mounted right on the rear overhang. A longer wheelbase would have helped here as would a 24000 lb chassis. Right now, it feels like the steering is light and I am constantly fighting the wheel. This is probably due to all the weight in back. I'm thinking about removing the washer/dryer and adding a rear trackbar. I probably need more weight in the front but have already moved as much as I can up there. Any ideas?

z3406 · 08-07-2016, 10:18 AM

jssr
Check where your fresh water tank is located. On my coach it's directly over the front axle. If your coach is similar it's a quick was to add ballast to the front.

rssj · 08-07-2016, 11:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by z3406

jssr
Check where your fresh water tank is located. On my coach it's directly over the front axle. If your coach is similar it's a quick was to add ballast to the front.

Mine is close to the front axle on the driver's side. I usually travel with 1/2 tank. I'll add some more. Thanks for the suggestion.

Bigfoot_ · 08-30-2016, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sweetbriar

If you do decide a bolt on after market device is necessary you'll have to chose front or rear. Front being a steering stabilizer and for the rear a track bar.

Other than cost any reason to not do both? They're fixing slightly different causes...

Tsfishin · 01-05-2017, 05:19 PM

Hey there folks, newbie to my new 2017 Bounder 33C. I changed out the front sway bay to a Roadmaster and put on a steering stabilizer also. In attempting to put on a Roadmaster rear sway bar I am having trouble. The new sway bar lines up exactly where the stock sway bar is. The instructions say that the stock sway bar does not come off and that the Roadmaster sway bar is in addition to the stock bar. Has anyone added what I am trying to do, and if so what am I missing here. I can not get the "new bar" installed with the old bar in the way. The u bolt plates have been installed correctly facing forward,angled to the inside. The part I am trying to put on is the roadmaster 1139-144. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

twinboat · 01-05-2017, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tsfishin

Hey there folks, newbie to my new 2017 Bounder 33C. I changed out the front sway bay to a Roadmaster and put on a steering stabilizer also. In attempting to put on a Roadmaster rear sway bar I am having trouble. The new sway bar lines up exactly where the stock sway bar is. The instructions say that the stock sway bar does not come off and that the Roadmaster sway bar is in addition to the stock bar. Has anyone added what I am trying to do, and if so what am I missing here. I can not get the "new bar" installed with the old bar in the way. The u bolt plates have been installed correctly facing forward,angled to the inside. The part I am trying to put on is the roadmaster 1139-144. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

I believe the new sway bar points towards the back, while the original points foward.

TeJay · 01-05-2017, 07:45 PM

jssr,

There's another thread on the F-53 forums that is addressing adding weight to the front axle so that the axle is carrying close to it's maximum weight. The thinking is then is should/might ride and drive better. I've been away from the forums for a time so I'm not sure what the name of that thread is but it's usually on the first page close to the top of the threads.

One of the guys doing the added weight is not able to test his vehicle until early spring. He lives in the north and is having two hand surgeries so will be healing most of the spring.

See if you can find that thread and see where it's going. By the way as far as I can remember that thread is the first attempt at using added weight to smooth/fix the ride. It just might be another but different answer. I know if one added 500 to 1500 lbs where needed it probably wouldn't hurt the fuel mileage much and if it gives a significant improvement to the ride and handling then why not?? It's at least worth a try.

I really don't know what we are currently carrying as far as front and rear axle weights. I can get the Cat scales to do that weight but can't find anyplace that can do a 4-corner weigh which is usually recommended for proper tire inflation pressures.

I checked and found that thread.

Here's the link: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/sumosprings-282804.html

It's got close to 500 responses but they don't start talking about adding the weight until towards the end. It's worth a read as an alternative approach. I'm waiting until those adding weights post their results.