Community Forums

Bob1340 · 06-02-2018, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F4Gary

Did you find the "salesman" switches?

The wiring job you did, was it between when the slides/jacks worked and when they didn't?

I suppose the salesman switches are mentioned in the so called owners manual? I see no labels etc saying Salesman Switches.

And yes, I did blow a fuse for the cigarette lighter between the time I set up the rig at the campground and when I tried to leave. The fuse was replaced but is no longer in use for the cigarette lighter.

Bob1340 · 06-02-2018, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F4Gary

You could also try calling the manufacturer of your jacks.

I looked for ID on the pump but couldn't find anything. It's Saturday here in California today so I imagine the manufacturer is closed. The Bounder is pulling out of the campground very early Monday. Jacks are going up today one way or the other. I can only assume they are Power Gear jacks as the controller is Power Gear. I see nothing on the pump that is visible. The Bounder is a 2017 model with 7,000 miles on it. The pump looks a lot older.

z3406 · 06-02-2018, 06:58 PM

Bob
I also had a 2016 35K. May I suggest you look in the bay just behind the front door. The one where the inverter is. The BCC is in there and if you remove the cover plate there is schematic there as to what fuse in the BCC does what. Also on the rear all in that compartment are some circuit breakers that may or may not have a reset button. I know the Vacuflush breaker is on that wall and on my coach it was self resetting. All the breakers in that compartment were labeled on my coach. If you do have self resetting breakers you may need to temporarily disconnect the battery to reset them, the battery disconnect switch which I'm pretty sure is also in that compartment may do the job. Lastly does the slideout control panel over the door panel or leveling panel light up at all when you try to turn them on? There are override switches on the back of the slideout control panel over the door and if it's malfunctioning it will give you some trouble codes.
The manual for the passenger side slideout is in post 57 of this thread
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/2016...-276429-5.html

Bob1340 · 06-02-2018, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by z3406

Bob
I also had a 2016 35K. May I suggest you look in the bay just behind the front door. The one where the inverter is. The BCC is in there and if you remove the cover plate there is schematic there as to what fuse in the BCC does what. Also on the rear all in that compartment are some circuit breakers that may or may not have a reset button. I know the Vacuflush breaker is on that wall and on my coach it was self resetting. All the breakers in that compartment were labeled on my coach. If you do have self resetting breakers you may need to temporarily disconnect the battery to reset them, the battery disconnect switch which I'm pretty sure is also in that compartment may do the job. Lastly does the slideout control panel over the door panel or leveling panel light up at all when you try to turn them on? There are override switches on the back of the slideout control panel over the door and if it's malfunctioning it will give you some trouble codes.
The manual for the passenger side slideout is in post 57 of this thread
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/2016...-276429-5.html

Thanks. The manual is actually on page 5. I printed it out to carry in the MH. It would seem to me they'd have info on the slides in the owners manual. And I'd certainly think the FW techs would know what there products have.

Yes, we checked the BCC in the inverter bay. Those are the only marked fuses on the rig. Nothing in the bedroom is marked. According to the FW all slide and jack functions are controlled by that. So i wager my problem is elsewhere as nothing he told me was correct. The front engine compartment box is marked but being it'll only open 90 degrees it's almost impossible to read. I'll eventually do some minor modifications so I can actually open the lid all the way.

I will continue to search for what jack system I have as the owners manual and my call to the FW tech got me nothing. I finally resorted to loosening the oil lines to drain the jacks and get them up via the springs. What was interesting is how old and nasty the hydraulic pump looked for such a new vehicle. lots of rust on the base plate and the bolts and washers were corroded. No markings on the pump. I did unbolt it from the base plate so I could move it over the side to drain with less mess.

Cranking in the slide system as shown in your PDF was a lot less daunting than removing the slide motors as the tech and the manual said to do.

I am slowing building my own owners manual.

No lights on any of the slide switches/controls. Ditto on the Jack controls. I still suspect something in the parking brake or neutral safety switches. Or a bad relay of some sort.

I am taking it back to the dealer I bough it from on Tuesday. I've spoken with the salesman and head salesman to see if I could possibly get the thing fixed by next Friday as I'm heading out (with a full tool kit) the following Monday. If anything goes haywire on that trip I'll be set off to paranoia.

Bob1340 · 06-02-2018, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by z3406

The manual for the passenger side slideout is in post 57 of this thread
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/2016...-276429-5.html

I just noticed this is for the passenger side. My big slide is on the drivers side. But the system as far as motors etc is the same as in the PDF. Really hard getting at that rear motor. I had my wife working the front ratchet. My son worked the rear. I called the shots and ran back and forth with a tape measure to make sure it didn't get cocked too bad. Went pretty smooth.

TripleEEE · 06-02-2018, 08:33 PM

Bob1340

You have tried multiple things with no success. This all started when you were adding additional 12v power ports, right?

I would suggest backing up to square 1, when everything worked. Remove or disconnect any and all wiring you have added on. Replace the fuse you blew with another fresh one and try your jack and slide systems.

Just my thoughts. Good luck.

Bob1340 · 06-02-2018, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TripleEEE

Bob1340

You have tried multiple things with no success. This all started when you were adding additional 12v power ports, right?

I would suggest backing up to square 1, when everything worked. Remove or disconnect any and all wiring you have added on. Replace the fuse you blew with another fresh one and try your jack and slide systems.

Just my thoughts. Good luck.

Haven't tried much at all. I am a fair wrench, but this complicated electrical system with no actual vehicle specific wiring diagrams, unmarked fuses, circuit breakers, relays, no valid owners manual just makes things more complicated. Basically all I could do was to verify all fuses and circuit breakers were good, which they are. I was trying to see if the parking brake has just a single switch or two switches today and could not locate much as I am a large old man with a totaled out back, both knees gone with hips soon to follow and getting under there in a contorted fashion is just not good on me.

I did fine a rather large bundle of wires zip tied together and just cut off. Had to be at least a dozen or more multi colored wires just hanging there going no place. Very sloppy electrical work under the dash and hood. I had big 1" plastic conduits of wire just hanging under the hood. I'm sure eventually they would of made their way into the engine belts or fan. I guess they have race competition at the factory to see which team can roll a MH out fastest. I tied them up proper like.

I have no desire to remove my 12 v power outlets, I use them. Of course I replaced the fuse. But that circuit goes nowhere as far as I know. I did not use that circuit for my power outlets. I wired directly to the battery with an inline fuse. I can't see how the blown power outlet fuse is connected to the slides or jacks. But of course on this rig who knows?

Until I can get a true wire diagram of my actual vehicle I'll never know all what is on that circuit. But everything works except the slides and jacks. As I said before I have checked out all the systems except the furnace and I haven't opened all the bays to see if the lights all come on. I haven't used the funny antenna thing for the TV as I use cable. I haven't tried the convection portion of the oven yet, but the microwave works fine. The living room TV sounds crappy. But they use crappy tv's in rv's. The square king size bed went in the trash and I put in a regular human size Cal King mattress. The rig drives good with quite a bit of slop and sway. I did the CHF on the sway bars and I have a steering stabilizer, rear Track Bar, and Sumo springs I was going to install this week but I was stuck with my slides out and jacks down. It goes in to the dealer Tuesday. I wage a 20 dollar note to a doughnut it's a simple relay. It very well could be a system or two needs re-booting. Being there is no valid owners manual I wasn't about the disco the Battery/Batteries in an attempt at re-booting something I know nothing about. I see PDF's etc from people offering good advise (which is appreciated) but unless I can be certain any of this information is pertinent to my specific coach I am leery trying to do it. So far more info which is said to be for my coach has been proven false than true.

2inclassof56 · 06-02-2018, 09:16 PM

Take it back where You purchased it and demand a full refund, Buy a Coach that has proper Factory backup.

Bob1340 · 06-03-2018, 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2inclassof56

Take it back where You purchased it and demand a full refund, Buy a Coach that has proper Factory backup.

LOL. I like the coach. It's used, only 7K miles but used. They ain't gonna do a refund and i don't think I want one. I am taking it back to where I got in on Tuesday. We have good places close by to repair what ever simple thing it is. But we think we can get it done on time quicker at the original dealer 100 miles away. They feel really bad about our first experience with this coach and I may have them make me a deal on installing my front steering stabilizer, sumo springs, and rear track bar. With any luck we'll be heading out on our first trip the following week. I still haven't towed my Wrangler with it yet so hopefully I can have a day or two before the trip to get that sorted out and fine tuned.

Bob1340 · 06-03-2018, 08:54 AM

BTW, I am re-submitting my requests to FW for manuals etc. Does anyone know if they only do this for new purchased rigs? Mine is used. I'd be willing to pay for them. Should I just call or use the online form?

And what should I get?

My list is:

1. Proper owners manual if one exists. The online manual is not for my application.
2. Electrical diagrams
3. Slide, Jacks, Awning manuals.
4. Illuma Plex Manual.

What else do I need?

Thanks.

darbyjudy · 06-03-2018, 11:40 AM

I have a 2017 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 35K and it tells me to have engine running when using slide outs and jacks. Could that be your problem?

Bob1340 · 06-03-2018, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darbyjudy

I have a 2017 Holiday Rambler Vacationer 35K and it tells me to have engine running when using slide outs and jacks. Could that be your problem?

Nope. On mine the engine has to be running for the jacks, I suppose that is due to power drain. For the slides the ignition key just has to be on, but I normally start it due to power drain.

My FW tech suggested I check some ignition relay switch but I have no clue where it is as nothing is marked. It goes into a shop tomorrow.

BTW, in the online manual it states for the jacks the engine needs to be on and trans in neutral. I pointed this out to the tech. He said that won't work as if the trans goes into gear the jacks will automatically come up. Got to hit reverse to get to park. Very confusing.

I've always had it in park. They worked fine then they didn't work.

Bob1340 · 06-03-2018, 03:49 PM

BTW, the sheet for color codes etc in the bedroom closet for my Bounder 35K was for a Holiday Rambler Navigator. LOL I requested that as well so I can get touch up paint if needed.

Bob1340 · 06-04-2018, 04:42 PM

Happy day! FW sent me most all the information today. They said they have no record of prior requests some something went goofy. Looks like I may be able to get a owners manual from the parts department.

Can anyone verify if the "hard cover" owners manual is the same as the PDF online manual?

The pdf is not for my rig.

I pulled the Bounder out of the RV park today. I had to fix a few things on it before I left. I did some modifications to some unused metal pieces which were in the way of the BCC box lid so I could open it. Sure enough, no markings on the inside of the lid other that a note to see the owners manual. LOL! One of the hood latches came loose and would not lock. While fixing that I noticed more massive amounts of just wires hanging that go nowhere. Looking down I could see where the headlamps had been rewired in what looked like a temporary fashion. Looked like a 10 year old kid did it. Wires just twisted together and taped up. As soon as I got going I could hear new noises from the area under the drivers seat that weren't there before. Some sort of growl/bang noise. That sort of quit after a while but I also noticed the chassis AC just blows hot. Compressor may of lunched itself. I didn't expect the AC to cool it off as it's a hot day here, but it was blowing hot air. We checked the lights before I left. Headlamps, tail lamps, brake lights, blinkers all were working. The LED surround lights did not. I drove with the lights on. By the time I got home 15 minutes later the LED's were on.

The old saying of Buyer Beware really set in today. I am crossing my fingers this fairly new coach makes the 100 mile trip to the dealer tomorrow on it's own power. I'm not betting any money on it.