Pace Arrow: Upgrade for Intellitec ECC

[js9315]

mxman132 -

I have not yet replaced the ECC, #2 son and I took a couple of months to tour Alaska by motorcycle (what a great trip...).

I experience the same shedding problem you describe, usually when first starting A/Cs on the generator. When I check around, I usually find that the electric hot water heater is switched on, turning it off free's up enough current to get the A/Cs working.

I have decided to take a more indepth approach to the 30A limitation on my coach. Originally I thought I would jump in with both feet and change the coach over to a 50A system, but our experience has been that a large number of campgrounds only have 30a service, so I decided this was not worth the trouble. What I have decided to do is to put in kind of a hybrid electrical system.

The installed 30a EMS seems to work well as long as things like the water heater, washer dryer, electric heaters, etc are not left energized. So what I have decided to do is to change the power inlet to a 50a cord which will terminate in a new distribution panel. From there one leg of the power will go to the existing EMS / breaker panel. The other leg feed a new breaker panel and will get the water heater, washer dryer, 3 new outlets for electric heat (I will also be installing the electric grid under the floor when I remove the carpet and replace the flooring), and electric heat for the basement. Since we like to use the coach year round we need to do something to supplement the propane heat. My thinking is that when we are camping in cold weather we will make sure that we get a site with 50a electric and will be able to use the elctric heat to supplement the gas heat. When we can only get 30a, the electric heat, electric water heater, and washer dryer will not be used.

As far as the original temperature control problem, I will also replace the ECC and remote sensors with new units, hopefully this will resolve the control problem.

[Bob (WA0MQE)]

Call Intellitec... I had a problem with my rear furnace. After it ran for a while it caused a relay in the ECM module (the black box in the bedroom area) to chatter. I took it to the dealer twice, they tried all kinds of things (supposedly) and failed to fix it. After a couple months I finally got fed up with the dealer and called Intellitec. They said I should replace the EMS unit. Since it was out of warranty I had to pay for it myself, cost me $135, but at least it fixed the problem.

My point is, it may be worth the gamble and the frustraction to just get another EMS and/or whatever else is in that particular system that might affect the problem.

[mxman132]

Well, I tried turning everything off, put the fridge on gas, and still, sometimes the ac compressor will not engage with the generator running. And I can never get both ac units to run at the same time. When I first got the coach, it would run both. I guess I need to learn how this system works so I can diagnose it. If the ECC is not too expensive, I may try it first.

[js9315]

mxman132, Here's something to check,

I pulled the coach out of storage and was running the generator to exercise it and noticed that the AC compressors would not engage. The generator was not running very smooth (surging a lot) and I wrote that off to being in storage for a long time since last use and figured i would run it some more after I finished the maintenance. It was time for an oil change so I completed the oil and filter changes and started the generator from the local start button on the generator. With the generator running I noticed the fuel filter on the engine was leaking fuel, the body of the gas filter was loose and leaking. I replaced the filter and the generator smoothed right out. I went inside and put both ACs in auto cool and both compressors engaged almost immediately and the generator voltage (measured at one of the 110v outlets) was a constant 120v with both ACs cooling. After a while I shut the ACs off and shut down the generator. A couple of hours later I started the generator up and put both ACs in auto cool and they engaged within the prescribed 2 mins and cooled the coach right down.

I do not know how long the filter had been leaking but after replacing it the generator runs much better and the ACs engage and cool like they ought to. If you only experience this problem on the generator then maybe it is time for a fuel filter change. My coach actually has 2 fuel filters for the generator, one on the inlet to the low pressure pump (under the left front corner of the base) and one before it goes into the carb. It was the one at the carb that was leaking. (I thought this generator was fuel injected but it sure looks like a carbureator...)

[MrMudstud]

On my unit, the rear AC sensor was behind the sliding door in the bedroom. Last summer, I moved the temperature sensor to the next wall and the rear room stays more comfortable. It seems the air behind the door was always cooler than in the bedroom itself. Since then, it sheds better and is more comfortable. Before it was always warmer in the hotter days.

[holly]

i have a new ecm for 75.00 gerry 920-344-0108

[Softailmike]

I had the same problems with my 2002 Pace arrow 35G. Solved the shedding problem by converting my 30a system over to a 50a system. I still have the problems with the analog thermostat and its 2-5 degree temp range and the fan running all the time. Called intellitec they said that's the way the sys. was designed. right now looking into changing the system over to digital, but having problems with figuring out the wiring. does anyone have any advise

[wilanddij]

I have the same ECC in my 04 Southie, and noticed the same type of wandering problem. My solution was to remove the remote temp sensors and replace them with non-programmable digital thermostats. Now, to cool I just put the AC control on "auto cool", move the temp slider all the way down, adjust temp with the thermostat and let it turn the unit on and off. Heat works the same way; set the unit to "heat", move the slider all the way up, etc. etc. The modification has worked well for me for the last four years.

[Jobee]

Originally Posted by wilanddij

I have the same ECC in my 04 Southie, and noticed the same type of wandering problem. My solution was to remove the remote temp sensors and replace them with non-programmable digital thermostats. Now, to cool I just put the AC control on "auto cool", move the temp slider all the way down, adjust temp with the thermostat and let it turn the unit on and off. Heat works the same way; set the unit to "heat", move the slider all the way up, etc. etc. The modification has worked well for me for the last four years.

Hi wilanddij - Very old post of yours, but I want to try your solution to my temp problem. I believe mine is mostly because the settings on the analog sliders are very difficult to reproduce consistently. Four questions really.
1. Is the picture I uploaded the remote temp sensor?
2. Does the thermostat have to have both heat and cool settings?
3. Does it need to be just a two wire thermostat?
4. Is there a reason why a programmable thermostat wouldn’t work? I would like to have automatic settings for during the day, sleeping, etc. For that matter, would a smart WiFi thermostat like the Nest work for this?

Again, I realize your post is 6 years old, but any help would be greatly appreciated.

TIA,
Joe

[wilanddij44]

Wow, its been so long since I've been on here I had to get a new account. Anyway, here goes with what I remember.

1. The pic looks like a temp sensor. Kinda dark for me to see. On my MH, one is located on the wall by the control panel and the other is in the BR.

2. The stats I use have both heat & cool settings, but I leave mine on cool all the time. Choice on the system between heat or cool is done with the slider switches on the panel. Heat is all the way up on the left slider and then you adjust how hot with the stat. Cool is all the way down on either slider and then you adjust how cool with the appropriate stat.

3. When you pull the temp sensors you will only have two wires out of the wall. So the stat is simply used as a precisely adjustable on/off switch.

4. A programmable stat should work to change temps at the times you want, but battery life may be a problem since there is no power wire in the wall at the sensors. If you're willing to run power wires in the walls, you could probably be able to make any brand of stat work. I chose the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) route.

When you run it on cool with your current setup, the compressor turns off while the fan continues to run when the temp reaches the setting. With the stat in place, the whole system turns off at once. That behavior got my attention at first, but its been working without problem like that since I switched over so my guess is that there's no damage to the compressors.

Hope this helps,
Will

[Jobee]

Originally Posted by wilanddij44

Wow, its been so long since I've been on here I had to get a new account. Anyway, here goes with what I remember.

1. The pic looks like a temp sensor. Kinda dark for me to see. On my MH, one is located on the wall by the control panel and the other is in the BR.

2. The stats I use have both heat & cool settings, but I leave mine on cool all the time. Choice on the system between heat or cool is done with the slider switches on the panel. Heat is all the way up on the left slider and then you adjust how hot with the stat. Cool is all the way down on either slider and then you adjust how cool with the appropriate stat.

3. When you pull the temp sensors you will only have two wires out of the wall. So the stat is simply used as a precisely adjustable on/off switch.

4. A programmable stat should work to change temps at the times you want, but battery life may be a problem since there is no power wire in the wall at the sensors. If you're willing to run power wires in the walls, you could probably be able to make any brand of stat work. I chose the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) route.

When you run it on cool with your current setup, the compressor turns off while the fan continues to run when the temp reaches the setting. With the stat in place, the whole system turns off at once. That behavior got my attention at first, but its been working without problem like that since I switched over so my guess is that there's no damage to the compressors.

Hope this helps,
Will

Thank you SO much for your response! Especially having to make a new account! I appreciate it, and am going to give it a shot with the programmable. Stay safe.

[ga traveler]

We were a Fleetwood dealer. I worked on many Intellitec systems. This is a wiper type control board. I figured some of the probems are caused by the contacts. About 80 percent of the time I was able to cure the problem by turning off all power to the coach. Turn off both 12 volt disconnects. I then ran both temperature levers up and down ten or fifteen times. (Rapidly) Next I did both system select switches up and down ten or fifteen times. As I said, this worked about 80 percent of the time.

[Jobee]

Originally Posted by wilanddij44

Wow, its been so long since I've been on here I had to get a new account. Anyway, here goes with what I remember.

1. The pic looks like a temp sensor. Kinda dark for me to see. On my MH, one is located on the wall by the control panel and the other is in the BR.

2. The stats I use have both heat & cool settings, but I leave mine on cool all the time. Choice on the system between heat or cool is done with the slider switches on the panel. Heat is all the way up on the left slider and then you adjust how hot with the stat. Cool is all the way down on either slider and then you adjust how cool with the appropriate stat.

3. When you pull the temp sensors you will only have two wires out of the wall. So the stat is simply used as a precisely adjustable on/off switch.

4. A programmable stat should work to change temps at the times you want, but battery life may be a problem since there is no power wire in the wall at the sensors. If you're willing to run power wires in the walls, you could probably be able to make any brand of stat work. I chose the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) route.

When you run it on cool with your current setup, the compressor turns off while the fan continues to run when the temp reaches the setting. With the stat in place, the whole system turns off at once. That behavior got my attention at first, but its been working without problem like that since I switched over so my guess is that there's no damage to the compressors.

Hope this helps,
Will

I jumped in and did this mod on both ac units in the past few days. I used the Honeywell RTH2300B,

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH.../dp/B007BHLUWM

which is 5/2 programmable, meaning you can have different programs for weekdays and weekends (although I set mine all the same because every day is Saturday). The programmable units work well for us because, like most probably, we have significantly different cooling needs in the living space and bedroom. Living space cooler during the day and warmer at night, and the opposite for the bedroom.
It was pretty simple really. Remove existing temp sensors and cut and strip both wires. For cooling, the wires connect to terminals RC & Y. For heating R & W. I then programmed the thermostats, set sliders all the way down, set Intellitec selector to high cool (which keeps fan running when the compressors turn off, and away we go. I won’t need heat in the foreseeable future, but it will be easy to swap terminals. I will likely, at some point, jump RC & R, and Y & W.

Thanks for the great idea Will. I appreciate it. This mod provides much more consistent temps so I don’t find myself fiddling with the sliders anymore.

Joe

[Jobee]

Originally Posted by ga traveler

We were a Fleetwood dealer. I worked on many Intellitec systems. This is a wiper type control board. I figured some of the probems are caused by the contacts. About 80 percent of the time I was able to cure the problem by turning off all power to the coach. Turn off both 12 volt disconnects. I then ran both temperature levers up and down ten or fifteen times. (Rapidly) Next I did both system select switches up and down ten or fifteen times. As I said, this worked about 80 percent of the time.

Thanks for your input. As you can see from the post above, I went a different route. I appreciate your reply though.

Joe