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09-22-2015, 11:01 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Manning, South Carolina
Posts: 1,882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramets
I replaced my grey tank blade valve on my Dutch Star, and thought I had the same problem you're describing. But I was able to make enough room to get the old one out, and the new one in. The only P.I.T.A. problem I ran into was getting it lined up properly without the o-ring coming out of it's slot. But eventually I got it.
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That is exactly my concern. Chuck
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1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34J
Triton V10 Gas
2010 Chevy HHR Panel
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09-22-2015, 06:26 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Official iRV2 Sponsor
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 8,305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramets
I replaced my grey tank blade valve on my Dutch Star, and thought I had the same problem you're describing. But I was able to make enough room to get the old one out, and the new one in. The only P.I.T.A. problem I ran into was getting it lined up properly without the o-ring coming out of it's slot. But eventually I got it.
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I used silicone plumber's jelly as a "glue" to hold the o-rings in place. That worked well and helped to lubricate the valves.
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Joel (AKA docj)--
RV Technology Specialist
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10-04-2015, 09:18 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 267
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I have the same setup and have one valve that is not seating.
I plan on replacing the valve and forcing the joint apart enough to slide the old valve out and the new valve in.
I plan on using petroleum jelly to hold the oring in place.
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1999 Bounder 34J, V-10, F53 chassis, Banks Power System, Safe T Plus Steering Control.
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10-04-2015, 09:46 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Manning, South Carolina
Posts: 1,882
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I have the old valves off and it is very tight. The new valves, I decided to replace them instead of just the o-rings, are on the way to me. I am still concerned about getting them back on, but we shall see. That's my project for next weekend. Chuck
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1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34J
Triton V10 Gas
2010 Chevy HHR Panel
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10-04-2015, 10:18 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ambler, PA
Posts: 2,853
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Since you have the old valves off, install the large black water one first because you should have some wiggle room, then the smaller gray water one. It hopefully will slip in more easily.
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Larry & Cheryl Oscar, Louie, Ranger & Henry (our Springers)
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10-04-2015, 11:12 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Manning, South Carolina
Posts: 1,882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PushedAround
Since you have the old valves off, install the large black water one first because you should have some wiggle room, then the smaller gray water one. It hopefully will slip in more easily.
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Thanks, I'll try that. I have given this some thought. Chuck
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1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34J
Triton V10 Gas
2010 Chevy HHR Panel
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10-04-2015, 11:16 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ambler, PA
Posts: 2,853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckbear
Thanks, I'll try that. I have given this some thought. Chuck
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No doubt. Good luck with it.
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Larry & Cheryl Oscar, Louie, Ranger & Henry (our Springers)
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10-10-2015, 07:48 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Montreal
Posts: 1,079
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If you did not know, it is sometime possible to keep it like this and simply add a new valve where you put the cap.
On amazon.ca or amazon.com you have the
(click here 26$) Valterra T58 Twist-On Waste Valve
On amazon.com click here, 29$. They ship to your home in 2 days.
On campingworld.com, 27$ click here.
On Walmart.com click here, 26$. They ship to your home.
It is also available at eBay.com.
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Carl
Berkshire Forest River 390BH 2011, Cummins 6.7 ISB 340, Freightliner XC Lowered Rail
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10-10-2015, 08:02 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Manning, South Carolina
Posts: 1,882
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Carl, That is an easy fix, but I much prefer to make any repairs permanent. This would only be a work around and to me, not a proper repair. If these valves are failing, it's only a matter of time until they become worse, possibly stuck in the closed position. Then the valve you mention would be of little value. Chuck
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1999 Fleetwood Bounder 34J
Triton V10 Gas
2010 Chevy HHR Panel
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10-10-2015, 08:57 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Montreal
Posts: 1,079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckbear
Carl, That is an easy fix, but I much prefer to make any repairs permanent. This would only be a work around and to me, not a proper repair. If these valves are failing, it's only a matter of time until they become worse, possibly stuck in the closed position. Then the valve you mention would be of little value. Chuck
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Replacement is much better for sure.
The easy fix on the other hand can improve a coach: when the gray tank is full, you can open the old gray and black tank handles to equalize the water in the black tank.
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Carl
Berkshire Forest River 390BH 2011, Cummins 6.7 ISB 340, Freightliner XC Lowered Rail
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10-11-2015, 04:14 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: northern IL
Posts: 2,557
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Ive heard of folks equalizing tanks in this manner but if it were me, I would do it only as a last resort. I wouldn't want to have the mess from the black tank in my grey tank. For one, its hard enough to keep grey tank smells out of a coach when traps become dry from shaking down the road and such. Secondly, I have a black tank flush system but really no way to clean out the grey tank efficiently other than running a bunch of water through it. Also, what if some larger debris got stuck in the smaller grey tank plumbing? Not a good choice imho.
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2014 Fleetwood Bounder 35k
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10-11-2015, 05:05 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Montreal
Posts: 1,079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojoracing
Ive heard of folks equalizing tanks in this manner but if it were me, I would do it only as a last resort. I wouldn't want to have the mess from the black tank in my grey tank. For one, its hard enough to keep grey tank smells out of a coach when traps become dry from shaking down the road and such. Secondly, I have a black tank flush system but really no way to clean out the grey tank efficiently other than running a bunch of water through it. Also, what if some larger debris got stuck in the smaller grey tank plumbing? Not a good choice imho.
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Your are right, one should never equalize when the Black is full and the Gray is lower. It should be done only when the Grey is full and the Black is not. The pressure MUST come from the gray always. When the equalization is finish, he should close both valve otherwise the gray will get contaminated by the black.
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Carl
Berkshire Forest River 390BH 2011, Cummins 6.7 ISB 340, Freightliner XC Lowered Rail
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