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Old 01-11-2017, 07:32 AM   #1
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Water leak at pump

I noticed a small amount of water in the bottom of the utility bay, well it turns out I have 2 water leaks I need to fix.* I took the panel to the water pump off and have a leak at the rear connector of the water pump.* Also *a leak on the pump where the 2 plastic pieces join, but only when running.* My initial thoughts are to just replace the water pump with a new one since the old one is 18 years old.* I hand tightened the rear nut on the pump as it was loose and it still is leaking but less, Im going to take a wrench to it and tighten to see if that stops it.* If you ever seen the area that the pump is in their is not a lot of work space.*

So a question I have is the water supply lines are ones that have the connectors crimped on, I want to be prepared if I break one or the connector on the back side of the pump needs to be replaced.* Can anyone give me some guidance on how to replace the line and connector.* Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

*Thanks
John
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:38 AM   #2
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I believe they are called Shark Bite fittings. They are push on not crimped
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:18 AM   #3
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My coach is an 03 but I think they water pumps are very similar on AC models.

Something to keep in mind in case you aren't aware is the connections to the pump are push in with a lock on the pump. The nipple from the water line that inserts in to the pump has o-rings on it. May want to check the o-rings. I had to replace the o-rings a couple of years ago. Nothing special about them. You can get them at a hardware, auto, or big box store. I also put a small amount of silicon grease meant for potable water use to help them slide in and out and to keep them pliable.

Below is a photo of my model of pump. I placed an arrow showing the sliding lock. Push the tab to the left and it unlocks the nipple so you can pull it out. Reinsert the nipple and then slide the tab to the right locks it.

I have this on both sides. One side it just a nipple which is the output side. The other side has a screen filter and is the input side.

Hope this helps.

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Old 01-11-2017, 10:51 AM   #4
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I have the shurflo 288-422-444 pump. This pump does not have those guards. I was able to turn the connector on the back of the pump by hand. I think it needs to be tightened more with a little help of a wrench.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:19 AM   #5
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I got the leak to stop when not running the pump by tighten up the connector on the back of the pump. I have ordered the replacement pump which is the Shurflo 4008-101-E65. Looking at the old pump Shurflo 2088-422-444 and the new pump Shurflo 4008-101-E65 drawings I can see that there are differences in the size and locations of the mounting holes, 3mm and the height of the connector. The biggest issue is the height of the connectors for the water, the new pump is 1 inch lower once installed.

So the question is the same as before how do I replace the current connections with ones that would be more flexible once the new pump is installed. Can I cut the old pipe out and put on a new flexible pipe and connector. Can I cut the metal retainer off and just add a flexible line with connector. Any ideas and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 01-12-2017, 07:48 PM   #6
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JWLSC,

My coach's water pump is connected with braided hose on both sides to the PEX tubing.

Here's one way of tackling the problem.

In your case, I'd cut the black band off on the top connector of your right hand Swan valve with diagonal cutters and work the PEX off the connector. It most likely is a barbed connector.

I put black arrows on the black bands to cut.


Go to a hardware or a big box (Lowes, Home Depot, etc) and get a couple of feet or so of 3/4 inch ID (or what ever size connector you have... could be 1 inch) braided tubing like this:


Attach the length of braided tubing with a worm gear clamp to the Swan valve connector. Make a loop with the tubing to the swivel connector on the pump to determine the proper length and cut it to length. The loop will give you extra flexibility to allow for easy attachment and removal.

Remove what looks like a swivel connector from the pump, cut the black band (which is the top arrow in the photo above), and work the PEX off the tubing. Assuming the swivel connector has a barbed end, push the braided tube on the connector and secure with the worm gear clamp. Reattach it to your new pump.

Swivel Connector


Repeat for the back side which is probably about the same as the front.

Done!

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-12-2017, 09:21 PM   #7
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Dave, thanks for the input. After thinking about this more i have come up this. At the 2 swan valves remove the brass fitting for the PEX. Replace those with male/male brass fittings. I'm thinking they should be 90 degree. On the pump put 90 degree female/male brass fittings so not to stress the line. Then get braided tubing with 1/2 in connectors to run between the 2 brass connectors that are 1/2 in.
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Old 01-13-2017, 07:38 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWLSC View Post
Dave, thanks for the input. After thinking about this more i have come up this. At the 2 swan valves remove the brass fitting for the PEX. Replace those with male/male brass fittings. I'm thinking they should be 90 degree. On the pump put 90 degree female/male brass fittings so not to stress the line. Then get braided tubing with 1/2 in connectors to run between the 2 brass connectors that are 1/2 in.
Hey John,

You're welcome. Glad I was able to help your thinking process. What you propose will work well.

I put a loop in mine to help when it's time to winterize the coach. I can pull off the lines and get it out of the way to blow water out of the pump and empty those lines.

You're saving a bunch of money. When I needed to replace my pump I checked with a local RV dealer. Thought I'd try to support a small business owner. Well, the cost of the pump was double of what I paid online and then they also quoted 3 hours labor to install it. The pump and labor came to around $600. Wow...

Look forward to seeing your completed project photos.

Take care!
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Old 01-13-2017, 09:48 AM   #9
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I was able to get the new pump for under $60. I'm hoping the current lines and connectors will work with the new pump. If not I'm prepared to replace the supply lines and connectors. Might not get to this until spring.
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Old 01-13-2017, 11:06 PM   #10
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I'm a little late to this rodeo, you have second generation Polybutylene pipe and fittings.

Do not use a wrench, they are not meant to have wrenches used on them.

These may help you.





Awhile back I started a thread on repairing this pipe.

Plumbing in older Motor Home Polybutylene Pipe and fittings

There is a rubber cone inside the fitting that can be removed an a new one installed.

I was lucky and a member here was in the manufactured home business and he sent me fittings and a crimp tool.





If you still need help (have not resolved your leak) let me know and I might be able to help.

Glenn
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