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Old 06-08-2018, 05:04 PM   #1
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 59
Water pump bypass valve replacement

My water pump bypass valve is leaking, allowing water to be pumped to the tank even when the valve is closed. I attached a picture of the valve and connections. the pipe is tuffpex. The connections are some sort of blue plastic. There appears to be a very short male connector screwed into the valve. I'm concerned that if I turn the male connector to remove it from the valve, it will also break the connection to the pex pipe. What do you think? Will I be able to unscrew the connector or will I have to cut out the pipe and put in new connections? Of course this is all behind the metal panel in the waste compartment, so it's darn hard to get to. Thanks.

Ron Everson
Cortez, Colorado
2003 Bounder 37U
Freightliner chassis w/Cummins 300 ISB
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Old 06-09-2018, 11:22 AM   #2
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 9,073
What you have there is PEX expansion ring connectors
VERY robust secure method of making connections on PEX tubing
The 'ring' is slipped over the end of PEX tubing then a 'special' tool expands the ring and tubing ----then fitting is inserted into expanded ring/tube which will then 'memory contract' securing fitting and making a very tight seal.

And a PITA to remove.......
Have to HEAT one area then carefully the heated area with sharp blade and then pry the ring off using pliers.
Careful when slicing to NOT cut all the way thru (just a relief cut) and damage the PEX tubing otherwise you will NOT be able to reuse.
Reconnect using slip fit connectors/fittings like 'SharkBite' (Home Depot), 'GatorBites' (Lowes) OR "Watts" slip fittings

Is it time for YOUR medication or MINE
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Old 06-09-2018, 11:39 AM   #3
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Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 387
Biscuit said it! The same thing happened to me, but I was able to get to it to use a crimping tool and rings. I used a Dremel rotary cutter to cut the old rings off. I cut at the base of the ring's protruding ear (whatever it's name is) so I could stay from the PEX tubing.
But Shark-Bite and similar fittings are sometimes easier, like when you're working by feel, or cant get a long crimping tool in there. I've never had a leak using either method.
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Old 06-13-2018, 07:35 AM   #4
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 59
Looks like I'll be cutting the ends off. It's a right-angle valve and of course, Fleetwood no longer carries that valve. I'll be plumbing in a straight-line 1/2" valve. When I did this kind of thing on our '96 Bounder, I used the Shark-bite fittings and they worked well, so I'll do that here, also. Thanks for the info.

Ron Everson
smoky Cortez, Colorado
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Old 06-13-2018, 07:39 AM   #5
Join Date: Apr 2013
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By the way, the metal panel that covers all of this stuff is fastened with star type screws that are impossible to remove, so I'll be working upside down reaching behind the panel. They must have rounded them when installing.

Ron Everson
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Old 12-23-2018, 01:08 PM   #6
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Full Timers - Where ever we're parked.
Posts: 549
Hi Ron,

I have a 2005 Bounder with the same valve and same problem, leaking. I have heard that this can be repaired at the front panel by removing the handle and removing the cylinder inside the valve. There are O rings that get damaged when operating the valve under pressure. I've read that you can simply replace the O rings and problem solved. That's what I want to do.

However, I have no idea who manufactures the valve. I know it's been a few years since you original post but do you know who makes the valve? Did you replace it? My rig has the same PITA sheet metal plate everything is mounted on. Fleetwood was no help with the manufacturer of the valve or P/N.

Any help you can provide is appreciated.

Thanks for your time.
Paul - WA1IWH

Margaret - She who must be obeyed.
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:59 AM   #7
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I bought the replacement valve from Fleetwood, picture attached. It isn't exactly the same size, so I had to use 3 adaptors from local hardware. Also had to enlarge the hole in the metal plate slightly for it to fit. The original valve didn't appear to be servicable, so I had to replace. The hot water drain valve also needs to be replaced, but it's a slow drip. I'm not at the motorhome at present, or I'd take a picture.

Ron Everson
Currently in Austin, TX
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replacement, water, water pump, replace, ace, valve

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