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Old 05-08-2010, 06:09 PM   #1
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Water tank question

Today I filled up my fresh water tank. Once full I noticed that no water would flow and also the pressure valve on the water pump was bleeding off the water. This continued until the tank was empty. I have one valve and it continued no matter what position it was in. Any suggestions as to what I am doing wrong?

The water would flow to the faucets when running directly.
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Old 05-09-2010, 04:59 AM   #2
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Is there a bypass for winterization? Or possibly a ball valve shut off somewhere in the water bay right after the pump? Our Winnie has both. RVs seem to have a mesmerizing amount of water valves.

After that I would check for a pinched or somehow clogged water line. If everything works when connected to city water that should narrow down the places to have a problem.

Good luck!
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Old 05-09-2010, 07:47 AM   #3
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Quote:
Once full I noticed that no water would flow and also the pressure valve on the water pump was bleeding off the water.
Pressure valve on the water pump??? I'm at loss here - I've never seen or heard of a "pressure valve" on a pump. Could you possibly be referring to the Pressure Relief valve on the water heater?

The water tank itself is not pressurized - there is pressure downstream from the pump only. Presumably your pump ran, either continuously or intermittently if water was leaking out somewhere.

A picture of the leaking valve would be of help.
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Old 05-09-2010, 09:33 AM   #4
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Gary, it's leaking from the water pump relieve valve. It's the clear part shown in the picture. I've also included a picture of the valve.


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Old 05-10-2010, 07:54 AM   #5
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That clear thing on the pump inlet is a strainer, intended to keep debris from the tank out of the pump. If it is leaking there, remove and reseat it. If that doesn't fix it, replace the strainer. A water leak would be unusual there - it is on the suction side, so it usually "leaks" by sucking air in, rather than water running out.

I see three valves in the 2nd photo. One large one on the right (prominent red handle) and two more on the lower left, which appear to be low-point drains for hot & cold lines. Is one of those leaking?

I don't see a valve next to the label "Bypass valve". Looks like something was removed where that white hose with green quick-connector sticks out.
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Old 05-10-2010, 01:26 PM   #6
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I don't see a valve next to the label "Bypass valve". Looks like something was removed where that white hose with green quick-connector sticks out.
On mine, there is a valve that in one position I fill the tank, in the other I bypass the tank. It appears the valve has been removed. What/when do you connect to the quick connect?

OP, is this the first time you have had this problem? Has it worked before? When you say the tank empties, where does it empty out at...through the pump strainer?

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to help.
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Old 05-10-2010, 07:24 PM   #7
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Thanks for the replies. I'm still learning this. Yes it leaks from the strainer when water is in the fresh water tank. If I run city water to the brass quick release connection, it doesn't leak at all. I don't think I've used the tank yet. I just purchased this in December.

The change for the fresh water inlet was my coach had two twin beds in the back. I had it converted to a single queen and they said that now the green quick release was the inlet due to the this.

I tried the lower red valve it both open and closed positions and it still leaked from the strainer.
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Old 05-11-2010, 06:47 AM   #8
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I'm stumped...what the heck does changing the bed have to do with the water system?? So you use the green connection to fill your tank?

Connecting to the brass quick release is by passing your water pump is the reason its not leaking. You need to find out from whomever re-plumbed your water lines what they did and why they did it. Like I said...I'm stumped.
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Old 05-11-2010, 05:28 PM   #9
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Jim, the original fresh water tank fill location was a small door on the outside of the coach, just a few feet from this bay. That fill tube was routed under the bed on that side. I was told not to use this anymore after the conversion.

When connected to the brass fitting, my pump still turns on and off as needed to push the water through the pipes. I would think this wouldn't happen if it was bypassed.
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Old 05-11-2010, 06:07 PM   #10
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It appears someone has really screwed up your plumbing.

"small door on the outside of the coach, just a few feet from this bay. That fill tube was routed under the bed on that side. I was told not to use this anymore after the conversion." First mistake.

"When connected to the brass fitting, my pump still turns on and off as needed to push the water through the pipes." Your pump should never come on when connected to city water.

"I would think this wouldn't happen if it was bypassed." Here is your problem...they removed your by pass valve. The hole with the hose with the green connection used to have a bypass valve. For some crazy reason your by pass valve has been removed and until you have one, you're going to continue with this problem. Go get your valve back!!!!!
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Old 05-11-2010, 07:28 PM   #11
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Would you have a diagram on how it should be? If it's simply removing the panel and changing the plumbing around that is there, I might be able to do this myself.

I'm going to have to double check if the pump turns on with city water. I could be mistaken.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Elkhartjim View Post
It appears someone has really screwed up your plumbing.

"small door on the outside of the coach, just a few feet from this bay. That fill tube was routed under the bed on that side. I was told not to use this anymore after the conversion." First mistake.

"When connected to the brass fitting, my pump still turns on and off as needed to push the water through the pipes." Your pump should never come on when connected to city water.

"I would think this wouldn't happen if it was bypassed." Here is your problem...they removed your by pass valve. The hole with the hose with the green connection used to have a bypass valve. For some crazy reason your by pass valve has been removed and until you have one, you're going to continue with this problem. Go get your valve back!!!!!
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Old 05-16-2010, 06:38 PM   #12
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I fixed this issue yesterday. There was two things wrong. One was the cap on the strainer wasn't locked into position. The other being the screen was filled with debris. I cleaned it and locked the strainer. I also installed my winterizing kit. The valve from the bypass was moved to below the wall due to not being able to use the original fill location which is near the rear of the coach. Eveything now works correctly.
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Old 05-16-2010, 06:49 PM   #13
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Great! Glad things are operating normally. Thanks for letting us know your success.

Have you sanitized your fresh water tank this year?
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