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Old 05-08-2015, 12:32 PM   #15
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Thanks, that answers my questions. Sounds like all my batteries are being charged as long as something is running or I'm plugged in.
You are very welcome, F4Gary. Glad to be of help.
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:48 PM   #16
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Just something to note, from another fleetwood owner. My alternator will only 'engage' and actually charge if the chassis battery needs it.

If the chassis battery is full and doesnt need a charge, it will not put out high amperage for the coach batteries, thus, if they are dead, they will only trickle-charge, as was my case. I could not for the life of me figure out why the coach batteries werent charging but the engine was running. This was my end result.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:10 PM   #17
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Got to say I agree with OLD_BOUNDER. These forums are starting to look more and more like Facebook forums where people don't read what has been posted before and 300 people want to "express" themselves. Once the correct answer is given it does not have to be repeated 20 times. Also, if you "think" you know the answer, stand aside and see if someone who "knows" the answer will post. There is a lot of expertise here. Just sayin'.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:44 PM   #18
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Just something to note, from another fleetwood owner. My alternator will only 'engage' and actually charge if the chassis battery needs it.

If the chassis battery is full and doesnt need a charge, it will not put out high amperage for the coach batteries,
thus, if they are dead, they will only trickle-charge, as was my case. I could not for the life of me figure out why the coach batteries werent charging but the engine was running. This was my end result.
The design of the comparator circuit in your BCC requires only that the alternator output reach a voltage of 13.2V to make the connection to charge the house batteries. The correctly operating alternator will output approximately 14.2 volts whether the chassis battery is full or not. You may have an alternator/voltage regulator problem, or soon will have, if this condition is allowed to exist very often.

The most likely scenario is as follows:

If your house batteries were truly "DEAD", or near dead, it is very likely that, when the BCC connected them to the alternator, they caused such a high current draw that the alternator output was pulled down below 12.6V, which is designed to cause the connection to be dropped by the BCC.

This extremely high load is why the manufacturers recommend that you use your generator to re-charge deeply discharged house batteries, rather than putting that heavy load on the engine alternator. Again, the odds of harming your alternator are very high when you allow this heavy load.

If your alternator survived that episode, and still functions with good voltage under load, you were lucky, and can thank the good design folks at RV-Custom Products. Their BCC appears to have functioned exactly as designed.
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Old 05-09-2015, 07:28 PM   #19
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Thanks for this great information, Old Bounder!

To help me full understand it. What does RV-CP BCC stand for?

I've had my 2001 Bounder 36K for four months and am still on a steep learning curve of RV ownership and operation.

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.... all you have to do is memorize these few simple facts:

All (except the earliest entry level models) Fleetwood class-A coaches have been equipped with an RV-CP BCC, since the early '90s. The standard BCC facilitates the following:
  1. Charging of the house batteries, in addition to the chassis batteries, from the engine alternator when driving.
  2. Charging of the chassis (engine) battery, in addition to the house batteries, from the converter/charger when on Shore or Generator power.
  3. The Aux Start function.
  4. Battery Disconnect functions.

It is possible, when driving and running the Generator, that both charging sources will be active. This harms nothing.
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Old 05-09-2015, 07:42 PM   #20
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Thanks for this great information, Old Bounder!

To help me full understand it. What does RV-CP BCC stand for?

I've had my 2001 Bounder 36K for four months and am still on a steep learning curve of RV ownership and operation.
RV- Custom Products Inc. manufacturers the (BCC) Battery Control Center.
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Old 05-09-2015, 07:46 PM   #21
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Thanks to Bounder I've learned how the fleetwood system works. Working in electrical engineering provides no help in attempting to intuitively figuring it out. Bounders fleetwood specific explanations and the schematics have got me on the road. Thanks Bounder
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Old 05-09-2015, 07:52 PM   #22
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Thanks to Bounder I've learned how the fleetwood system works. Working in electrical engineering provides no help in attempting to intuitively figuring it out. Bounders fleetwood specific explanations and the schematics have got me on the road. Thanks Bounder
Thanks for the kind words, Rick. Did you see my suggestions on checking the DC circuit breakers on your other thread?
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:00 AM   #23
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Thanks for the kind words, Rick. Did you see my suggestions on checking the DC circuit breakers on your other thread?

Old Bounder, I'm having a problem with my 03 Revolution over charging my chassis batteries. It's ruined 2 sets already by overcharging them. This seems to happen when I'm plugged into shore power only. Overnight it will get them extremely hot. Charging voltage is right around 13.5 volts. Any suggestions and where to start my troubleshooting?
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Old 05-27-2015, 07:17 AM   #24
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Old Bounder, I'm having a problem with my 03 Revolution over charging my chassis batteries. It's ruined 2 sets already by overcharging them. This seems to happen when I'm plugged into shore power only. Overnight it will get them extremely hot. Charging voltage is right around 13.5 volts. Any suggestions and where to start my troubleshooting?
Conchasjim
Do you mean chassis batteries or house batteries?

Either way I suggest making sure that the "charge settings" of your inverter/charger, (if they are adjustable), are set correctly.
What make /model inverter/charger do you have and do you have the Owner's Manual?

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Old 05-27-2015, 11:37 AM   #25
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Old Bounder, I'm having a problem with my 03 Revolution over charging my chassis batteries. It's ruined 2 sets already by overcharging them. This seems to happen when I'm plugged into shore power only. Overnight it will get them extremely hot. Charging voltage is right around 13.5 volts. Any suggestions and where to start my troubleshooting?
13.5 volts is not should not be enough to over charge, or over heat, your chassis batteries, but a float voltage of about 13.2 would be better. I would be looking for a way to isolate the chassis batteries from the charging path, for a few days each week, while on shore power for long periods.

As Mel suggested, if your Inverter/charger has an adjustable (menu selectable) float voltage, you should choose the lowest setting.

You could try flipping the HOUSE battery disconnect OFF (disconnect the batteries) to see if it's the draw on the house batteries that is forcing the charger to NOT drop to a lower float voltage. Of course, you can't continue to operate this way, (without running down the house batteries) but you would at least know the cause.

Again, as Mel asked, are we really talking chassis batteries and what I/C do you have?
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:27 PM   #26
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My coach has a Xantrex freedom 458 /20 along with the freedom remote control panel. And yes I'm having problems with the chassis batteries. I have 2 sealed 1200 cca in parallel. Today after getting two new ones I plugged into shore power and was getting 13.2vdc to them. Along with the same charging voltage to the 4, 6 volt wet cell house batteries. I do have the manuals for both. I went into the set up and set the ahrs, amp hours to 800 and the type to warm wet. The charging current went way down, and after 5 hrs I unplugged from shore and had a static voltage of 13.5 on all the batteries. I'll recheck in the morning and see where they sit. Will these lower settings keep them all charged up when running the generator? Do you think it was set for a different type of battery and was charging way too much?
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Old 05-28-2015, 01:05 PM   #27
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My coach has a Xantrex freedom 458 /20 along with the freedom remote control panel. And yes I'm having problems with the chassis batteries. I have 2 sealed 1200 cca in parallel. Today after getting two new ones I plugged into shore power and was getting 13.2vdc to them. Along with the same charging voltage to the 4, 6 volt wet cell house batteries. I do have the manuals for both. I went into the set up and set the ahrs, amp hours to 800 and the type to warm wet. The charging current went way down, and after 5 hrs I unplugged from shore and had a static voltage of 13.5 on all the batteries. I'll recheck in the morning and see where they sit. Will these lower settings keep them all charged up when running the generator? Do you think it was set for a different type of battery and was charging way too much?
With 4-6V house batteries (two series pairs in parallel) you should set the Xantrex for 400ah, not 800. This should not make a difference in the charging voltage or charging current. The only use of this setting is to calculate the approximate level of charge (usable amphours) in the banks after a period of use and/or charging. It is not an actual measurement.

The type of battery setting may have been wrong, but maybe hooking NEW, fully charged, chassis batteries into the mix had a good effect also. Time will tell.
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