Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Fleetwood Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-14-2016, 10:21 AM   #1
Senior Member
 
bepar108's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 198
Winterizing fridge

Please help with instructions to winterize my samsung residential fridge (RF18)
It is in a 2016 Bounder.
No instructions in manual, no help from Fleetwood, and worst of all, can't get info from Samsung.
I have the equipment and accessories to use a compress to blow out the pipes, as well as the antifreeze jugs that can be pumped in to the rv via the fresh water intake in the "city" position. My question more than anything is how to make sure the water blows out through the ice maker, and how to feed antifreeze to the ice maker and stay there.
Thanks in advance for any help.
bepar108 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 11-14-2016, 10:59 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Pensacola FL
Posts: 1,451
Please do not pressurize the plumbing when blowing the pipes out your asking for trouble. leave the internal faucets open while running compressed air into the system. There is a separate position on the Anderson valve in the service compartment to winterize the system. The valve should point to the 3 oclock position if you look carefully it is labeled. Connect a short hose from the hose fitting in the service compartment to the antifreeze jug and the water pump will pump it into the system. You have 2 choices for the icemaker. 1. Disconnect the line feeding it and drain the water out then turn the ice maker on and after a few cycles the line should drain. 2. Fill your system with antifreeze and turn the ice maker on and leave a jug of antifreeze connected to the input and the water pump on. Eventually the ice maker will cycle enough antifreeze thru the system and the ice holder will turn pink from the antifreeze. Please note that with a residential refrigerator there is no longer an outside panel behind the refrigerator exposed to the outside weather so the effect of the cold on the ice maker is not as extreme as with an RV style refrigerator. On my coach the water shutoff valve for the ice maker is located under the galley sink, very visible once you look. Others disagree with me but if I'm going to put antifreeze into the pipes I don't see a reason to blow them out first. You can clearly see when you have antifreeze in any circuit when you run the fixtures at the end.

FWIW The instruction on the service compartment panel door and owners manual are out of date as far as my 2016 Bounder is concerned. They apply to the system that was on my 2014 coach not to a coach with an Anderson valve installed. I have attached a manual for the Anderson valve.

You may also find other useful information in this thread http://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/2016...-276429.htmlis .
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Anderson 4 way valve.pdf (485.5 KB, 67 views)
__________________
Brenda & AL
2017 Thor Venetian, T42 "Groot"
2020 Chevy Sonic, 2019 KTM 790 Duke
z3406 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2016, 11:26 AM   #3
New to the RV World
 
GlennLever's Avatar
 
Vintage RV Owners Club
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 3,092
Not sure you have to do anything to the refrigerator, but you will need to get the water out of the Ice Cube maker. You can do that either by blowing the lines out or by replacing it with antifreeze.


I actually do both, I first Blow the lines out using compressed air. You need to be very careful and not use too much pressure. If you use this method you must use an air pressure regulator, not an air flow regulator. The difference is if you shut the flow off in the motor home the pressure will build up to the full capacity of the air compressor you are using. If you use an air pressure regulator even with no flow the pressure will not build up any higher that what is set on the regulator.

So this is my process to winterize my coach plumbing with a finial comment on the bypass valve on the water heater here.

Do not forget to let the water drain out of the flush system for your gray and black water tanks.
__________________
See projects on my 1997 America Dream here, Index to the projects is in the first post.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/proj...am-174380.html

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
GlennLever is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2016, 06:29 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
bepar108's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 198
winterizing fridge

Quote:
Originally Posted by z3406 View Post
Please do not pressurize the plumbing when blowing the pipes out your asking for trouble. leave the internal faucets open while running compressed air into the system. There is a separate position on the Anderson valve in the service compartment to winterize the system. The valve should point to the 3 oclock position if you look carefully it is labeled. Connect a short hose from the hose fitting in the service compartment to the antifreeze jug and the water pump will pump it into the system. You have 2 choices for the icemaker. 1. Disconnect the line feeding it and drain the water out then turn the ice maker on and after a few cycles the line should drain. 2. Fill your system with antifreeze and turn the ice maker on and leave a jug of antifreeze connected to the input and the water pump on. Eventually the ice maker will cycle enough antifreeze thru the system and the ice holder will turn pink from the antifreeze. Please note that with a residential refrigerator there is no longer an outside panel behind the refrigerator exposed to the outside weather so the effect of the cold on the ice maker is not as extreme as with an RV style refrigerator. On my coach the water shutoff valve for the ice maker is located under the galley sink, very visible once you look. Others disagree with me but if I'm going to put antifreeze into the pipes I don't see a reason to blow them out first. You can clearly see when you have antifreeze in any circuit when you run the fixtures at the end.

FWIW The instruction on the service compartment panel door and owners manual are out of date as far as my 2016 Bounder is concerned. They apply to the system that was on my 2014 coach not to a coach with an Anderson valve installed. I have attached a manual for the Anderson valve.

You may also find other useful information in this thread http://www.irv2.com/forums/f107/2016...-276429.htmlis .
The part you mention about getting antifreeze to the ice maker confuses me a bit. If you attach a hose to a jug of antifreeze and put the pump on till it cycles at the ice tray for the antifreeze to enter there, wouldn't the pump running all that time suck up all the antifreeze to other areas and at some point before it goes through the ice making cycle, wouldn't the pump be running without any liquid passing through it and ruin the pump. I am saying this because I noticed that the ice maker takes a bit of time to go through a cycle. Please let me know the error of my thinking.
bepar108 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2016, 09:07 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Pensacola FL
Posts: 1,451
It is a demand pump. It will only run when the pressure in the system drops when a faucet is opened or the ice maker switches on momentarily to fill the tray. You will notice that the pump does not run continuously when it is turned on, only when needed. If it is running continuously you have a problem that needs correcting.
FWIW
I winterize the pipes on my coach to protect the pipes running in the basement area. I leave it plugged in with the refrigerator running all winter. If possible I would suggest you leave your coach connected to external power for the winter. Your batteries are going to be a lot better off with the inverter charger connected and maintaining them. I have my coach connected to a 20 amp circuit with a space heater inside to keep the inside of the coach from getting too cold. If you have not serviced your batteries yet now is a good time to make sure they are topped off with distilled water, that is something you should check at least every 6 months. If you do add water to the batteries make sure you let the coach charge them for a couple of days before disconnecting power to the coach, it is possible for the electrolyte in the batteries to freeze if it is diluted.
__________________
Brenda & AL
2017 Thor Venetian, T42 "Groot"
2020 Chevy Sonic, 2019 KTM 790 Duke
z3406 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2016, 06:55 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
bepar108's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 198
winterizing fridge

I also have the coach hooked up to my house 20 amp outlet all the time, and also have the inverter on the on position. Regarding the batteries, on my Bounder 33c they are very hard to get to sitting under the steps inside the rv. They made the step cover extremely hard to remove, although I trimmed it down a bit to make it easier to lift out of the stairway well. I simply connected a Flow-Rite battery system and now I don't have to remove that stair. In regards to the pump, thanks so much for the info.
I am not sure if your fridge has this feature, but in my Samsung RF18 residential fridge, by pressing both the "power freeze" button and the "freezer" button, both a the same time, it will put the fridge in a "store display" mode, which means that it still runs, but without cooling. I guess in shuts off the compressor but keeps the fan inside running. I called Samsung asking them if putting the fridge in that mode is sufficient for winterizing. They said they had no clue about winterizing a fridge. I was totally stunned, lol.
Anyway Al, just want you to know that I really appreciate your replies as well as the other members of this site.
bepar108 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2016, 07:52 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Pensacola FL
Posts: 1,451
If you live in South Carolina not Alaska. I would leave the coach plugged in, turn the fireplace on set the heater to 62 degrees winterize the plumbing and NOT winterize the refrigerator. Let the fridge run, if your plugged in the inverter is not an issue shore power runs the fridge. The reason I don't winterize the ice maker is it will take forever to get the antifreeze out of the ice when you dewinterize.
If you look behind the bedroom TV there are 2 control panels. The top one controls the intelligent electrical system in the coach. When plugged into a non 50 amp circuit you have to option of telling the system what the available power is. Push the button between the arrows and it will show 30 amps, push it again 20 amps and one more push and 15 amps. Last thing you want is to have the house circuit breaker trip leaving your coach dead in the water. Also by looking at that panel and using the arrows to scroll thru the menus you can find out how much your coach is pulling power, useful if you keep it plugged in. I have a small light plugged into the receptacle over the sink that is not powered by the inverter and visible from the outside of the coach. A quick glance and I know if I have shore power connected or not. 20 amps will run one a/c or heat pump.
I use the fireplace or space heaters to protect the inside of the coach because at around 40 degrees the heat pumps will lock out. If the coach heating system is on and the temp difference is 5 degree's or more from the set temp the gas furnace will turn on.
If the temp drops below freezing and the plumbing is not winterized the gas furnace is your only way to protect the plumbing. It will heat the basement area and protect the plumbing down there.
__________________
Brenda & AL
2017 Thor Venetian, T42 "Groot"
2020 Chevy Sonic, 2019 KTM 790 Duke
z3406 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
winter, fridge



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Winterizing the fridge huntnjim Newmar Owner's Forum 7 11-24-2013 06:29 PM
Winterizing Residential Fridge npidstawski Entegra Owner's Forum 3 11-24-2013 04:38 PM
Winterizing Whirlpool Residential Fridge Ice-maker and water in the door tmmk90 Fleetwood Owner's Forum 1 11-24-2012 05:46 AM
Winterizing & Un-Winterizing michguy Class A Motorhome Discussions 5 11-01-2012 02:19 PM
Winterizing with the winterizing system Ripperfarms Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 7 10-09-2012 06:54 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:56 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.