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02-05-2015, 09:01 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,485
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Wobbly Toilet
Replaced the toilet in our 1998 Pace Arrow last fall. Although it appears to be bolted down all the way, it wobbles from front to back slightly. I noticed when I removed the old toilet that there were some wood shims under it - apparently the old one may have had a similar problem.
Since the MH is hibernating in the driveway until Spring, I have not attempted to fix the problem yet. I would rather not use pieces of wood to shim the toilet in a damp environment like a bathroom. I was considering a thick bed of silicone but I am afraid it will have too much 'give' and the toilet will still wobble. Has anyone had a similar problem and how did you fix it?
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Dave RVM#66 and Carol
1998 Pace Arrow Vision
Seeing the USA - 200 miles at a time
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02-05-2015, 09:09 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 64
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I replaced the hold down bolts. I drilled holes straight through the floor. Installed stainless steel nut and bolt to correct the prob.
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02-08-2015, 09:31 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: c above
Posts: 5,525
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They sell plastic shims at the big box stores, as far as that goes I would think any place that sells plumbing stuff. I just used them on the S&B toilet. Worked great. Don't forget to use a level to be sure it sits level...
How does the floor flange gasket look like? Might just replace that if the toilet has been removed several times.
Tim
__________________
1982 Pace Arrow P30 454
KarKaddy SS, Toad: 2009 Genesis
Tim, Joe and Lilly too. Mpls Minn.
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02-08-2015, 09:39 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Gulf Coast, Alabama
Posts: 2,450
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It isn't too much trouble to make the footprint under the toilet flat. First, though, if the problem only started after installing a new toilet, then take a tube of lipstick and coat the bottom of the toilet with it. Set toilet on the pipe without rocking it; then remove and see where the red is...and isn't. Can you grind the flanges if it's a plastic toilet?
If not, I would remove the toilet (after using a felt-tip to mark the base's footprint) and use a 2' level or other flat edge to learn where the high spot is (or are). If it's the pipe itself, you can build up the areas that are low if the pipe can't be sanded down with a belt sander or similar.
IMO, shims of plastic are better than wood for longevity, but wood shims should be just fine so long as the effluent remains contained to the bowl to floor path.
Plastic might tend to wander or skid along the vinyl; especially with use and the coach's movement.
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Rick and Sandy
2003 American Eagle, 59K miles
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02-08-2015, 01:17 PM
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: In a lawnchair
Posts: 11,993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bamaboy473
It isn't too much trouble to make the footprint under the toilet flat. First, though, if the problem only started after installing a new toilet, then take a tube of lipstick and coat the bottom of the toilet with it. Set toilet on the pipe without rocking it; then remove and see where the red is...and isn't.
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... And that's when the fight started. (Please don't return the lipstick to your wife's makeup drawer. )
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02-08-2015, 10:20 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Gulf Coast, Alabama
Posts: 2,450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SarahW
... And that's when the fight started. (Please don't return the lipstick to your wife's makeup drawer. )
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lol, yeah, I didn't think that all the way through, because you DWs are organizers and would pick it up if you found it, and we fixit guys are more likely to leave those helpers in the toolbox; lost to the ages.
__________________
Rick and Sandy
2003 American Eagle, 59K miles
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02-09-2015, 08:26 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: c above
Posts: 5,525
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__________________
1982 Pace Arrow P30 454
KarKaddy SS, Toad: 2009 Genesis
Tim, Joe and Lilly too. Mpls Minn.
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