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MrTrouble · 06-02-2016, 07:16 AM

Hey there all,

I have read dozens of the stabilizer posts and I haven't found one yet that is similar to mine. Maybe I've missed one, and in that case, I'm sorry to rehash, but here goes...LOL

I have a 1999 Southwind. I have PowerGear levels with spring returns. My rear legs are operating fine. The fronts used to operate fine and then one day they didn't.

When I press the button on the control panel, I hear the typical sound of the pump trying to extend the legs, but the sound is different, a higher pitch if you will, but the legs don't move. The DS leg is slightly extended, maybe an inch or so of the chrome leg exposed. The CS leg is fully retracted. I would imagine a stuck dump valve wouldn't let the DS leg retract all the way, but then, why would neither of them extend? Again, I hear the pump, but it sounds different.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Juan

MrTrouble · 06-04-2016, 11:58 PM

Well, I got to work on the coach a bit today. Working on the stabilizers, I read all the troubleshooting and checked everything listed. All fuses good at the control box. 12 volts at the red wire for the front valve. No continuity though. I assume that means I'm changing that top valve....booooo

Old Bounder · 06-06-2016, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrTrouble

Well, I got to work on the coach a bit today. Working on the stabilizers, I read all the troubleshooting and checked everything listed. All fuses good at the control box. 12 volts at the red wire for the front valve. No continuity though. I assume that means I'm changing that top valve....booooo

If there is no continuity through the valve coil, you only need to change the coil, not the entire valve. Make sure it's not just a connector problem. good luck

MrTrouble · 06-08-2016, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Bounder

If there is no continuity through the valve coil, you only need to change the coil, not the entire valve. Make sure it's not just a connector problem. good luck

Outstanding! Is there a way to test out the connector only? I can't imagine that connecting one of the other lines (rear) to hit and hitting the rear switch would do anything. I have to get up a little farther in the space to see the valve more clearly...

MrTrouble · 06-08-2016, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Bounder

If there is no continuity through the valve coil, you only need to change the coil, not the entire valve. Make sure it's not just a connector problem. good luck

According to this picture from the Power Gear site, my problem is with #5, one of the leg valve assembly kits. In my particular case, it would be the top one for the front legs. I have no continuity on the solenoid side, but I have 12 volts on the purple wire on the switch side. That leads me to believe the valve solenoid it bad. What part are you saying to replace?

Thanks,

Juan

Podivin · 06-08-2016, 10:46 AM

MrT
When I bought my '96 Southwind the jacks failed the PDI (which I was truly thrilled about, that's FAR better than them failing the following week!). I rolled around under the rig while the tech was trouble shooting. I noticed he kept swapping pieces AND THE LINES, from working jacks to the non-working jacks to determine where the fault was. In my case it turned out to be the control board which they had to replace - doubtful it's the same on yours since the pump is running.
But you might take their method of moving things around to help narrow down what the issue is.

MrTrouble · 06-08-2016, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Podivin

MrT
When I bought my '96 Southwind the jacks failed the PDI (which I was truly thrilled about, that's FAR better than them failing the following week!). I rolled around under the rig while the tech was trouble shooting. I noticed he kept swapping pieces AND THE LINES, from working jacks to the non-working jacks to determine where the fault was. In my case it turned out to be the control board which they had to replace - doubtful it's the same on yours since the pump is running.
But you might take their method of moving things around to help narrow down what the issue is.

Podivin,

I thought about that as well. If the solenoid is bad, hooking up another switch to it will yield the same result. I am assuming the switch is working, so plugging the switch to another leg should make it work, but I'm already assuming that. The next logical step would be to switch valves, but if I do that, I might as well switch it out because I will have done all the labor required to replace it.

Again, given the fact that fuses and power are where they seem to be, the lack of continuity in the valve coil itself leads me to believe it to be the culprit.

Thanks for you input, I appreciate it.

Juan