Coach Battery Replacement

[quikduk]

I know there have been many discussions about this and perhaps one of the administrators will move ALL battery posts to a new section.

Anyway, I am going to ghange out our two coach batteries since they are not holding a charge. I am thinking about Lifeline AGM's depending on price but I have some other issues and questions.

1. my battery trays allow 14-1/4" x 14-1/4" so I would need to fit it/them in here or I could modify the depth (front to back) of the tray to a max. of 17".

2. I have a vertical clearance of 27-3/4" in the compartment but through the opening it shrinks to 23" so I could build a second upper slide-out tray for a future additional pair.

3. I will be checking sizes of batteries shortly but will I be ok with two (or four) 12 volt deep cycle batteries or am I much better going with two (or four) 6-volt batteries?

4. I have the following inverter setup.
- Heart Freedom 1000 (1000W)
-Intellitec Isolator Relay Diesel # 00-00265-000-06297
- sep. chassis and coach relays #01-00055-000-01498
- Intellitec Battery Disconnect Panel #BD2 which has two DPDT switches and indicator lights for store and use modes.

When I am plugged in to SP, I cannot switch off the chassis batteries into store mode but I can do the coach batteries. Does this mean that the inverter and relay are charging both banks? If so, do I need to worry about how much or do they NOT overcharge?

The "control" panel in the driver side overhead compartment only lets me "shut off" the panel(?) or is it the whole system? It has DC and AC volt monitoring with scales and AC amps as well. I am just a little confused as to whether I need to re-invent this system for better boondocking or is it setup well as is.

I also am unclear how with my current setup I could change the charge rate if I were to buy AGM's so does this current system limit me to flooded or gel-type batteries?

Any help and comments are welcome and keep in mind that if I can do incremental improvements/changes, that would help the budget out a lot.

Thanks.

[quikduk]

I know there have been many discussions about this and perhaps one of the administrators will move ALL battery posts to a new section.

Anyway, I am going to ghange out our two coach batteries since they are not holding a charge. I am thinking about Lifeline AGM's depending on price but I have some other issues and questions.

1. my battery trays allow 14-1/4" x 14-1/4" so I would need to fit it/them in here or I could modify the depth (front to back) of the tray to a max. of 17".

2. I have a vertical clearance of 27-3/4" in the compartment but through the opening it shrinks to 23" so I could build a second upper slide-out tray for a future additional pair.

3. I will be checking sizes of batteries shortly but will I be ok with two (or four) 12 volt deep cycle batteries or am I much better going with two (or four) 6-volt batteries?

4. I have the following inverter setup.
- Heart Freedom 1000 (1000W)
-Intellitec Isolator Relay Diesel # 00-00265-000-06297
- sep. chassis and coach relays #01-00055-000-01498
- Intellitec Battery Disconnect Panel #BD2 which has two DPDT switches and indicator lights for store and use modes.

When I am plugged in to SP, I cannot switch off the chassis batteries into store mode but I can do the coach batteries. Does this mean that the inverter and relay are charging both banks? If so, do I need to worry about how much or do they NOT overcharge?

The "control" panel in the driver side overhead compartment only lets me "shut off" the panel(?) or is it the whole system? It has DC and AC volt monitoring with scales and AC amps as well. I am just a little confused as to whether I need to re-invent this system for better boondocking or is it setup well as is.

I also am unclear how with my current setup I could change the charge rate if I were to buy AGM's so does this current system limit me to flooded or gel-type batteries?

Any help and comments are welcome and keep in mind that if I can do incremental improvements/changes, that would help the budget out a lot.

Thanks.

[GStream40]

Here is a website that you can get a lot of your answers on, including dimensions of batteries.

The 12 Volt Side of Life

Ron

[Retird2Golf]

Hey Ken, I just replaced 2 wet 12volt house batteries with 2 Excide Orbital, which are sealed ,valved dry wound fiberglass batteries.
2year full replacement and 7 year warrantee.
You can buy them thru N.A.P.A. auto parts stores. Cost was $160.00 ea. I rebuilt the tray which was eaten up by acid from the wet bats.
Then I put each bat in a marinre type Battery Box, used new "quick straps to hold down plus I fASTENED THE BOXES WITH s.s. Screws.
I have made it a habit that when I replace any screw , anywhere, I use S.S.
My starting bat is still wet because it is only 2years old with 7 year Warrantee, but I did put it in a marine box also.
Looks neat and clean !!

Best regards, Clyde

[RV Wizard]

For those that are going to do a lot of boondocking I do recommend AGM type batteries. They are rechargable in a higher amperage rate than wet cell and are available in many sizes. The factor you are looking for is the number of amp hours available for the size space you have. Since you will need to recharge the batteries when needed I would not worry about trying to disconnect the chassis batteries when bood docking.
For more info on batteries check out:
http://www.usbattery.com/care.htm
http://www.dcbattery.com/faq.html#1
http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Bat...ery%20Charging
http://www.rvsolarelectric.com/sources.htm

[quikduk]

I am not sure how much boondocling we will be doing. I might go with the 6V wet type only due to cost. I think they are around $90-$100 from Interstate.

If I go wet, are the Trojans better than the U2200?

Here is another question. When plugged in to SP, I can use the Intellitec battery disconnect and disconnect the "house" or coach batteries but NOT the chassis. Is the switch or relay(s) wired backwards? I would think that the chassis battery should have the ability to be disconnected from SP but it is working the other way around. I can here the solenoid click but the light (use/store) stays lit.

What gives?

[RV Wizard]

quikduk, do you have a dc volt meter? If so check the battery voltage before you plug into SP. Plug the coach in and then recheck voltages at both banks. Turn off chassis battery bank and recheck voltages; did the voltage go back down? Now unplu the coach and see if the light on the disconnect switch goes out. You can do the same test for the house side. THe Trojan batteries have a very good reputation and if used and maintained properly will last many years. THis is true for any brand but the Trojans are probably the best for the 6 volt deep cycle variety.

[Retird2Golf]

Hey quikduk, on my SunVoyager there are 2 switches. Both are located in the front storage compartment on the passenger side. One for the chassis battery and one for the coach.
I just replaced my house batterys with two Excide Orbitals at $160.00 ea. 2 year full relacement, 7 year warrantee sealed,vented
dry type. They say you can mount them upside dowm, vibration proof!

Always something to "piddle" with!

Best Regards, Clyde

[quikduk]

Here are some pics of my wiring setup.









I will take more of the inverter, control panel and disconnect if needed for clarification.

After speaking with someone at an RV place this past weekend, I was informed that my system may not be wired correctly. I was told that when on SP, the chassis batteries should be able to be disconnected via the DB switch but NOT the coach batteries. It works the opposite way.

Is it possible that the wiring/solenoids/switch is/are wired incorrectly or is this procedure/behavior correct?